Rats nest removal for 13B
Originally Posted by Max7
I have the fuel pressure and crank purge valve left, everything else on the engine is gone.
not even an Air Bypass Valve.
not even an Air Bypass Valve.
I would be VERY intereted in some sort of write-up on what you did.
I'm emissions exempt now and I'd love to yank out that headache of a rats nest.
Is the 13b running something other than stock, since your pulling out the rats nest?
I've pulled out the rats nest on a couple of cars, 12a and 13b non-turbo. but they both where running after market carbs and pretty gutted under the hood. Me and some friends pulled some of the nest out on a GSL-se but not all since it was still running injectors.
I've pulled out the rats nest on a couple of cars, 12a and 13b non-turbo. but they both where running after market carbs and pretty gutted under the hood. Me and some friends pulled some of the nest out on a GSL-se but not all since it was still running injectors.
Ok here is a mini writeup
here you can kinda see as it is stock.

after yanking, I removed everything on top of engine except.
the fuel pressure switch which comes off the back side of the plenum for vac.
its the orange colored connector, the green one (removed) was for vac advance
there are other little vac things under there that are gone to.
I left the purge valve to the "crank case" which goes into the vac ports
towards the firewall.
there are 2 ground wires in that loom that i kept that bolt under the "purge valve"
braket, which is the stock one cut off. same for the fuel pressure one, just cut to size.
you'll still have wires for air temp in the plenum, the tps, and water temp in that harness.
I cut the wires to all the "rats nest" stuff back to the other fender side.
I have been running it like this for 2 weeks and have had zero backfires. which seems strange, but not complaining.
also removing the Air Bypass Valve seems to work for me. I don't have A/C
So the only vac you have off the plenum
1 for the oil metering into the block (front side of plenum - lower one)
Cap off the remaining 3 on the front.
2 in the rear (firewall) which go to the "purge valve"
1 plenum (spark plug side) which goes to the fuel pressure switch
all other can be capped (1 under the TB)
I also removed the secondary TB plates and by passed the coolant to it.
thats all the brain can pull right now
here you can kinda see as it is stock.

after yanking, I removed everything on top of engine except.
the fuel pressure switch which comes off the back side of the plenum for vac.
its the orange colored connector, the green one (removed) was for vac advance
there are other little vac things under there that are gone to.
I left the purge valve to the "crank case" which goes into the vac ports
towards the firewall.
there are 2 ground wires in that loom that i kept that bolt under the "purge valve"
braket, which is the stock one cut off. same for the fuel pressure one, just cut to size.
you'll still have wires for air temp in the plenum, the tps, and water temp in that harness.
I cut the wires to all the "rats nest" stuff back to the other fender side.
I have been running it like this for 2 weeks and have had zero backfires. which seems strange, but not complaining.
also removing the Air Bypass Valve seems to work for me. I don't have A/C
So the only vac you have off the plenum
1 for the oil metering into the block (front side of plenum - lower one)
Cap off the remaining 3 on the front.
2 in the rear (firewall) which go to the "purge valve"
1 plenum (spark plug side) which goes to the fuel pressure switch
all other can be capped (1 under the TB)
I also removed the secondary TB plates and by passed the coolant to it.
thats all the brain can pull right now

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someone did a 2nd gen s4 / s5 rats nest removal tutorial on here at one point you'd have to search for it i will search also if i find it i will let you know where it was its on the fc's but it may help ......
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risingsunroof82
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Sep 7, 2015 01:11 PM




