Radiator replacement option
07-17-09, 07:18 PM
#52
Not even close to bolt in. It's wayyyyy bigger than the stock radiator. Lot's of cutting and weelding and fab work required to make them fit, and yes they cool better. Remember they were designed to be able to cool the stock Turbo 13b. Which I'm just guessing runs a little hotter than a NA car. lol!
07-21-09, 11:20 PM
#54
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
I'm in the prosess of installing this one right now.. build quality is good but its not a bolt in by any means but its not as bad as making a universal one work. I had to trim about a inch and a half off the driver side mount and drill the holes. the bottom out let isn't angledlike the oem one but i found that the uper hose will work nice so you only need one spare
I will know friday how well it works.. I think my gueage is faily acurate and the sending unit is in the thermostat housing.. last tuesday i was seeing constant 230 deg temps all afternoon when on track and my oil temps stayed under 200. I tried a electric fan but that didn't do a thing except let me idle on the grid with out worrying about over heating becasue i normaly don"t run a fan at all.
I'm in the prosess of installing this one right now.. build quality is good but its not a bolt in by any means but its not as bad as making a universal one work. I had to trim about a inch and a half off the driver side mount and drill the holes. the bottom out let isn't angledlike the oem one but i found that the uper hose will work nice so you only need one spare
I will know friday how well it works.. I think my gueage is faily acurate and the sending unit is in the thermostat housing.. last tuesday i was seeing constant 230 deg temps all afternoon when on track and my oil temps stayed under 200. I tried a electric fan but that didn't do a thing except let me idle on the grid with out worrying about over heating becasue i normaly don"t run a fan at all.
07-22-09, 08:35 AM
#56
FB=OS Giken LSD
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Why, when you can get a brass replacement from a forum sponsor for less?
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/saengine_accessories.html
"Looking for a replacement for your tired original radiator? Are you needing an improvement in efficiency for a high-performance application? Here’s your radiator. These are the exact units we’ve been using in our shop for over a decade. The all-brass construction is both durable and efficient. For the 1979-82 series, the size is increased by 50% to a 3-row design. The 1983-85 is increased to a 2-row, instead of only one. Designed for both manual and automatic vehicles. Keep your cool and pick one of these up today."
$175-$180
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/saengine_accessories.html
"Looking for a replacement for your tired original radiator? Are you needing an improvement in efficiency for a high-performance application? Here’s your radiator. These are the exact units we’ve been using in our shop for over a decade. The all-brass construction is both durable and efficient. For the 1979-82 series, the size is increased by 50% to a 3-row design. The 1983-85 is increased to a 2-row, instead of only one. Designed for both manual and automatic vehicles. Keep your cool and pick one of these up today."
$175-$180
07-23-09, 04:27 PM
#57
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Think about it, FC's and FD's have all the neat aftermarket aluminum rads. Why settle for a boring stock look when you can have both performance and great looks for your engine compartment. The site you provided had a stock looking rad and and great looking aluminum catch can on the same page, after market looks are important factors to consider...
Our 1st Gens need new aftermarket products that look aftermarket, not stock....unless you are doing a "Restoration".
Just my 2 cents.
Our 1st Gens need new aftermarket products that look aftermarket, not stock....unless you are doing a "Restoration".
Just my 2 cents.
07-25-09, 07:23 AM
#63
35r 13b first gen
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Brass and copper is more effecient so thats why i think im going with a two row replacement instead of my 1 on my 85. Im going to turbo it tho so i dont know if this rad will keep it cool. Im sure it will do better than aluminum. In my opinion keeping my car cooler and safer for the engine is better than saving 2 lbs on a radiator and looking cool.
07-25-09, 04:13 PM
#64
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I guess the whole debate on copper /brass vs alum could go on for a long time.. the main reason I went with it is based on when the top racers and shops that i work with and learn from use them..there are alot of things that many people say dosen't make a diffrence on these yet when I am at the track looking at all the cars I will be racing against and seeing where they place you have to take notes and compare.. when the front runners use something and the guys in the back don't there must be something to thier setups.. yes driver skill has alot to do with it.
Last edited by MA2LA; 07-25-09 at 04:15 PM.
07-27-09, 08:00 PM
#66
LOL 230-240* water temps that's absurd!!! How the hell did your car not chip an apex seal. Mazdaspeed says to shut down immiatly with water temps of 220. I measure my water temps in the top radiator tube where the hotest water is let out, and Friday sitting in traffic for over an hour averaging 5mph with 0 wind and 90* ambiant temps I didn't see anymore than 190* with my stock FC radiator. Mind you it is the stock alluminum and plastic one, it will be trashed soon enough for a copper one.
07-27-09, 09:10 PM
#67
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My guage maybe off but i know sitting on the grid with a fan on the temp stayed right at 190 so I'm guessing its close.. I know i was puching the limits of what it should have been running at but after the bs i had been through to get to the track and such plus i have a spare motor i said f it.. plus the car didn't seem to be over heating and ran decent.
07-28-09, 04:37 AM
#68
Yuk. RB said it and I've experienced it on the dyno, for every 5 degrees above 180* your oil temp gets you will lose 2.5 WHP. My oil temps are always 10-15 lower than my water temps. So just guessing your water temps were 230-240 if your oil temps were 220-230 you could be down 20-30WHP at those temps.
07-28-09, 05:55 AM
#69
Not even close to bolt in. It's wayyyyy bigger than the stock radiator. Lot's of cutting and weelding and fab work required to make them fit, and yes they cool better. Remember they were designed to be able to cool the stock Turbo 13b. Which I'm just guessing runs a little hotter than a NA car. lol!
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