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Help with 84 Rx7 upstate ny

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Old 09-18-18, 05:54 PM
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Help with 84 Rx7 upstate ny

Anybody interested and helping me on figuring out why my Rx7 starts hard when hot new rebuilt from Atkins rotary and new racing beat holly and intake and fuel pump been working on this problem for years I am lost will transport to you if close buy
Old 09-18-18, 06:31 PM
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Which Racing Beat Holley? Whenever it's hard to start, have you ever checked the plugs to see if you're flooding it?
Old 09-19-18, 08:48 AM
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4160 I will chk plugs looking for good Rx7 Mech in Nys area or pa or jersey
Old 09-19-18, 08:49 AM
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I have keep smashing gas pedal to get it to start
Old 09-19-18, 12:36 PM
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Its either flooding due to carb bowls draining or its lean due to carb bowls not working right. Its a Holley, so that doesn't help either. Do you still have the nikki that came with the car?
Old 09-19-18, 10:24 PM
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What fuel pump are you running? Also, am I correct in assuming this is a stock port 12A?
The 4160 is like 600 or 650, right? I'm crazy about the idea of something that size on a stock 12A (if that's indeed what you have)

Also, how far away would you travel to get the car fixed. Is Patterson, NJ feasible for you?
Old 09-20-18, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by steve post
Anybody interested and helping me on figuring out why my Rx7 starts hard when hot new rebuilt from Atkins rotary and new racing beat holly and intake and fuel pump been working on this problem for years I am lost will transport to you if close buy
Consider AJ Foreign Auto in Ithaca NY. The owner used to be a Mazda technician for Zikakis back in the day, and use to work on my '83 RX-7. May be doing so in the future!
Old 10-12-18, 12:13 PM
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If you have to constantly press the pedal to get it to catch, there could be something wrong with your automatic choke. The RB Holley's had a mechanical automatic choke. To set it, you press the pedal to the floor once and the don't touch the pedal until it has started and is idling on fast idle. I've used both the mechanical one (with the tube that wraps around the header) or the electric one that does the same thing as the mechanical (heats up a bi metallic strip and releases the idle cam at a certain temp). Once you clean out the engine of flooding, try checking the setting of the choke. It's the black circular plastic thing furthest forward. You adjust it by rotating cap after loosening the 3 (maybe 2) screws that holds it down in place, just loosen, not remove. Then the cap can be rotated to set your desired choke rpm. That is a guess and check thing, but don't be surprised if all of a sudden the thing wants to idle at 3000 rpm. To get it to drop off the choke when the engine is warm, you rev the engine (a little blip), and the idle should be handled by the primary idle circuit at that point. The choke always initially caught when it started, even warm, just another thing for you to check.
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