Here's a pic of an EF rack. Looks rear steer to me. I'm researching this foo shizzle.

 

luiml73, that setup looks decent, but are the 2 clamps that mount the rack enough to keep it in place? It looks like there may be flanges on the outboard side of the framework. If that's the case, then the clamps may be enough. I hope they are high strength clamps and not off the shelf muffler clamps.

 

I know the difference. The thing I'mtrying to resolve here is that the biggest complaint that people have about CP's rack is that the LTL is much larger than stock. Also people say the turning radius is greatly incresaed, but it fells tight. That's why I was suggesting the EF rack those things can do 8' circles. Most of it is due to the tiny wheel base, but some of it is the rack too. LOL! I'm just throwing out early ideas. It hasn't fully been researched as of yet. I remember reading a post from Chris @ CP that the reason they chose the VWrack was because they work and were very redilay available. Due to VW's hitting the junkyard rather quickly. And I have found that Honda's don't.

EDIT: I just got comfirnation that EF's are rear steer.

 

Strange, I had a 90 Jetta Diesel and a 92 Golf Diesel. I bought each brand new, and both had power steering, and it wasn't optional. Wonder if that was one of those 'only in Canada" type things.....

I also found both the cars handled very well. They had exceptional "road feel". If one tire slid, you could tell EXACTLY which one it was. This was especially useful in the snow.

 

you can use a power rack, all you have to do is fill with fluid, turn lock to lock 10 times each way, watch the fluid puke out, and then cap the lines... now you have a manual rack!

 

true. one of the first things a lot of MK2 jetta owners do if get rid of the power pump.

 

Sorry man, but that is complete BS. Many members (including myself) have succesfully adjusted the steering box. With the proper tools it can be done if 15 minutes without removing anything from the car.

 

Since we all know what dealing with CP is like, how about someone out there posting the instructions and needed part numbers, so we " do it at homers", can have some idea where to start. By the way, look at a Quad 4's rack. Its mounted on the firewall, up high. Must be a rear steer, eh? Thanks, DICK.

 

Wrong!!! Don't cap the lines. Hook them together with a piece of rubber hose, as the movement of the rack also moves the fluid, and it needs somewhere to go.

 

I noticed A big differene in the way my rx steered when I replaced the shocks and springs a very larger difference.

I suggest the same If your shocks are shot your steering is loose because of the inability for the front wheels to stay put .

That me Matty

 

I completely replaced all of the steering components on my car and tightened up the steering box. It still feels like sloppy crap compared to my 2nd gen but it's tons better than it was before.

Does anyone know if you can use a 2nd gen manual rack? It's rear steer and I have one.

 

You can use any rear steet rack really the problem is fabbing up a mount for it, and fabbing up a link between the steering collum and the rack.

 

Yeah, I was looking at the link that CP came up with between the steering column and the rack... Doesn't that look to anyone else like it would bind a bit?

Or is it just me? Doesn't seem to me that you'd be able to get 360 degrees of fluid motion out of that and be able to feel it properly.

Jon

 

No, its a power steering rack. Look at the fluid lines and in/out connections.

I agree with what Jon was saying, looking at that 'custom' steering shaft it makes a rather rediculous angle from the firewall to the rack. I don't think the rack is really the big issue, as much as the steering column/shaft. If you look at just about any modern car, I'm speaking from mostly Fords and the like, its nearly a straight shot.

Does any one know where they gather the parts for that column/shaft? Is it completely custom?

And don't forget this nullifies the collapsible steering column. Personally I'd use so form of a racing harness, just so if I wreck my heart doesn't explode when my chest caves in.

 

Add another joint. But it's fine the way it is.

Most likely custom from purchased parts.

The CP kit, if followed, does nullify the collapsible column, but it certainly doesn't have to. It's easy to make it work so that it's still collapsible.

 

Purple, is yours a rack from the first go around or the revised rack? How many miles have you put on it?

On the website it says that you can get replacement parts through them, it would be decent to get the steering shaft from them and fab the rest of it. I'm all about a manual steering rack.

It would be nice to find a slightly longer rack so that the angle could be reduced. As long as the thread pitch is correct you can put whatever length tie rods in and plus there is always the adjustment for the tie rod ends.

My whole issue with the extreme angle is that I've heard from other people that it binds up on them. And it wouldn't surprise me if it had something to do with those two u-joints being out of phase. You seem to say different. But I'd need alot more convincing before I bought the CP kit. I don't want to shell out 850 for something that will need fixing.

 

I'm not going to try to convince anyone to do business with CP Racing. As everyone here has said, they're painful to deal with and if there was another alternative, I'd take it in a heartbeat.

Having said that, I believe that even at $850, this kit is a bargain. It's a relative thing, right, but if you've got the $ to spend, improving this car's steering is a good place to put it. Compare $850 to some of the outfits offering R&P kits for old Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes, and the like at $1300 and it doesn't sound so bad.

My kit is the latest version. I bought it at $650 when it was first released. I've driven the car for about 3000 miles with this kit.

The angle of the universal joints is large, probably beyond what they are designed for, and I do have some SLIGHT changes in effort as the wheel is turned. But it can only be felt while turning the wheel as the car isn't moving, and it's VERY minor.

If I were designing a system, I'd add another joint. But it's not a big enough deal for me to try to address and I'm a very hands-on mechanical engineer.

I'm not sure why you mention that you'd like a longer rack, but I have checked ackerman angles and they are acceptable for this system.

 

That's why I'm saying that there's got to be a better way to do that. Anything better than 2 u-joints at weird angles.

Jon

 

I'd say if you're going to DIY, definitely use 3 joints. The U-joint manufacturer will have specs on max reccommended angle.

 

3 u joints are going to need another support...

 

Yup

 

Detailed instructions on how to adjust the steering gear box: https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....grind+steering

 

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That thing is a rip-off for $850USD. I can't believe some people will pay that much for something like that.

 

Here's the pic's of mine. Ghetto but it works great.