Ok, so i was thinking over the steps to R&R for my tranny and the new AL flywheel that I got.

The problem I can imagine running into is using the RB flywheel stooper and wrench.

Since I dont have a lift, the car will be up on stands.

I imagine putting the stopper on the flywheel and then "proping" it against the chasis, This is where I see myself getting into trouble. With the car up on stands Ill be hesitant put my weight into it, and with the space that I have to work under the car, not being able to get good leverage.

IF I get past this part....How much does the nut have to be torqued? AND again will I be able to get good leverage from under the car............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................


Anyone do it before? With the motor still in and the car up on jack stands with only about 2ft clearance?????

-Ryan

 

Many times, you have 2 choices. 1). rent electric impact gun. 2). rent torque multiplier for extra torque. Once the vehicle is on stands it really cant go anywhere
unless it's on a very uneven surface or on soft dirt or mud. But if you want piece of mind put it on car ramps for the best safety. As far as the torgue goes the specs are 289-362ft lbs. Don't forget that you will need a puller to get the flywhell off unless you already have a lightned steel flywheel on there. On the pilot bearing the easiest one to use is the one on a lide hammer that has the small jaws that grab inside. Happy wrenching. rx7doctor

 

jack stands and car ramps would do. If you have a compressor and the gun, I have the socket including RB tools to make it easier.

 

ok thanks guys, just gotta make sure i have the right counterweight.

 

Hi Ryan,

I homemade a flywheel stopper out of four feet of steel angle iron. With holes drilled to screw it into the flywheel. You can borrow it! I've proped it against my concrete driveway or the frame, but prefer driveway. I also have the correct flywheel socket, breaker bar, and a 4 foot pipe cheater bar to slide over the breaker bar you can borrow.

I torque it to 350 ft/lbs and torque it by putting the breaker bar up thru open hood and pull down. I usually have my 115lb girlfriend hang from the cheater bar at the three foot length mark.

115 lbs x 3 feet = 345 ft/lbs!

Sometimes put a dab of blue locktite on the threads once it's on, reduce likelihood of backing out. Blue Loctite is not permanent, red is.

 

Cool thanks Brad, I have all the stuff from RB. Ahhhh...so rest it on the ground and turn it from the top with the hood open...is that what you mean?
Cool yea, GUITARJUNKIE was just explaining that formula to me last night.

I remember for sure now that I have 86-88 rotors so Im gonna bring the counter weight to Mazdatrix tomorrow, see if its the right one. Maybe they can exchange it with the correct one if not.....YEA RIGHT, wishfull thinking.

Otherwise its $134...

Thanks again guys...

Oh Brad, check out Ricardo Portas Modded DHLA that he sold my buddy along with his rally motor.

 

 

I know for sure it has the 89-91 hi comp rotors, and i think its a 40mm???
same 235x235, 80 pump and idle.

Later

 

we call it RAINBOW BRITE !

 

lets line up and see

 

Well,

When I get my new clutch and flywheel in I'm taking one of my air force buddies up on a favor and he’s going to let me in on base (I helped him with his driveshaft on his cougar).

$5.00 an hour to use every tool you could imagine!

Thanks,
Eric

 

I just pull the car on the lift here at work abd break out the 1/2 ingersol rand impact and the 2 1/8 and zip the nut off then put a 3 foot prybar behind the flywheel then hit the center of the flywheel (no not on the face so don't even think that) with a 3 pound hammer it pops right off. then throw the wheel in the flywheel grinder and cut it. the whole job takes less than 1 hour.

 

Yeah Ryan, turn the breaker bar thru the open hood. Haven't seen that motor since SS5 I think; Ricardo had it in his 2nd gen rally car.

I have stacks that long on the REPU, but bellmouth and made by TWM. It didn't add as much torque as I had hoped but some is better than none. I zip tie the air filter on instead of cutting the stack and using bolts.