questions to the pros....
08-09-03, 01:33 PM
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questions to the pros....
hello everyone, im new to this forum and i thought this would be the place to find some answers.
ok, heres my story. i have this car sitting in my driveway for the past i dunno....since i was born. i never really noticed it until it was an old 1st generation rx7. i never really checked out the car cuz i thought it was old piece of junk.
well i decided to inspect the car and i was suprised to see the milage on this car. this rx7 is under 47K miles, sittn in the rain gettn rusty but the body is in perfect shape. the engine has a bunch of leaves in it but some of the engine parts needs to be replaced. me and my friends are thinkn about pitchn in some money and rebuildn it.
i just wanted to know where to start. where to buy parts? whats wrong w/ it? etc etc.
ok, heres my story. i have this car sitting in my driveway for the past i dunno....since i was born. i never really noticed it until it was an old 1st generation rx7. i never really checked out the car cuz i thought it was old piece of junk.
well i decided to inspect the car and i was suprised to see the milage on this car. this rx7 is under 47K miles, sittn in the rain gettn rusty but the body is in perfect shape. the engine has a bunch of leaves in it but some of the engine parts needs to be replaced. me and my friends are thinkn about pitchn in some money and rebuildn it.
i just wanted to know where to start. where to buy parts? whats wrong w/ it? etc etc.
08-09-03, 03:56 PM
#3
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Sorry about that other post. I was going to say the first thing I would do is put a good battery in it and see if it will even turn over. Or do it manually however you prefer. When you know it will still turn then we can work from there. And also how old are you so we have a working knowledge of how long it has been sitting.
08-09-03, 04:03 PM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
WAIT DO NOT TRY TO ROTATE THE MOTOR, if thing has been sitting for a long time, FIRST THING is to pour some ATF down the carburetor, opening it to full thottle, I say 1/4 bottle down each draft.
Wait a day or longer and repeat the process, and now you can hand crank the engine, if standing on the drivers side of car, the engine should rotate toward you.
If its frozen (carbon locked) you will be looking at a new motor (doubt if its rebuildable but could be).
You have to ask yourself why is the car sitting around, body damage, no? Then it usually means blown motor, but not always.
John
Wait a day or longer and repeat the process, and now you can hand crank the engine, if standing on the drivers side of car, the engine should rotate toward you.
If its frozen (carbon locked) you will be looking at a new motor (doubt if its rebuildable but could be).
You have to ask yourself why is the car sitting around, body damage, no? Then it usually means blown motor, but not always.
John
08-09-03, 04:12 PM
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Get a battery in the car. Change all the fluid, oil, coolant, ect.. Then check the spark plugs see how they look. Put some fresh gas in the tank, a little fuel system cleaner wouldn't hurt. Put atf or marvial mystery oil (can be found at most autoparts stores) in the carb. A few cap fulls in each draft should be plenty to lube the rotor faces. See if the thing will turn over. If it doesn't start check fuel, then check spark. Good luck, search the boards then ask anything you can't find.
08-09-03, 04:18 PM
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Hey Gyro, this might be a good candidate for a small-block Ford. I would find someone (everyone has a mechanic in the family!) to take a look at it and see what shape the motor is in. Not to be putting out negative vibes but not alot of people would leave a good running car sitting for all that time. Chances are the motor has seen its last days and a new reman is in order. Otherwise, if you are interested in building a hot little street machine, check out what we do over at:
http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdi...?s=&forumid=11
I'm not saying to rip out the rotary if there's a good chance of making it live again. Everybody who's owned an RX7 should have the experience of working and tweaking on a rotary before making the jump over to the Dark Side.
Why don't you post some pics of it. I'm sure some of us could give a better opinion of it if we could see the darn thing.
Toughguy
http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdi...?s=&forumid=11
I'm not saying to rip out the rotary if there's a good chance of making it live again. Everybody who's owned an RX7 should have the experience of working and tweaking on a rotary before making the jump over to the Dark Side.
Why don't you post some pics of it. I'm sure some of us could give a better opinion of it if we could see the darn thing.
Toughguy
08-09-03, 04:23 PM
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Forget the small block idea. Keep the rotary it's the heart of the RX7, it also is a great engine and very easy to tune and creat nice power gains. V8s are fun but not in these cars, the car wasn't built to be a strait line torque monster. And if you were to swap the engine why not a 13b or a 13bt and keep basicly the same weight. And not mess with the weight distribution in the car. These cars are going to be harder and harder to find. Why mess the ones that are around by taking away the part that makes them such awsome cars.
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08-09-03, 04:56 PM
#8
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Like I said, I'm not advocating pulling all the rotaries out and replacing them with a V8. My first gens 12A died and it was going to be $2500 CDN for a rebuilt short block which means I would have had to reuse things like the intake/carb, alternator, etc... For half that price I have a mild 302 going in it that will NOT affect my weight significantly and certainly not affect the weight distribution of the car to any great extent. A perfect weight distribution does not make a car. Ask anybody who drives a Porsche 911 or its decendants! A V8 RX7 does NOT become a straight line torque monster as Importguy has suggested. In fact I have driven in a well prepared V8 1st gen and that was what convinced me. It retained all of the wonderful handling traits of a 1st gen with a rotary and was much more fun to drive. As an added bonus, the car suddenly became more economical and less expensive to maintain as well as more reliable. That huge 55 liter gas tank (that messes with the perfect 50/50 weight distribution depending on how much gas is in it) on my friend's 1st gen now takes him to over 500kms when he was struggling to get half that with the original 12A.
It is very expensive to get power from a rotary! This statement I did not pull out of my *** like the ones from Importguy! I doubt he's ever ridden in a V8 RX7 (am I right Importguy?) or he would not be making such false statements.
Toughguy
It is very expensive to get power from a rotary! This statement I did not pull out of my *** like the ones from Importguy! I doubt he's ever ridden in a V8 RX7 (am I right Importguy?) or he would not be making such false statements.
Toughguy
08-09-03, 06:54 PM
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hmmm it was my dads car and i always wonder what he was gonna do to it. it used to be in the garage but he got a bike so it was either the rx7 or the 1987 turbo 911 which is under 100K miles, be taken out of the garage. im not sure whats wrong w/ the rx7 but my dad tells me the engine tends to flood a lot and prolly needs a new carburetor. i dont think ill be touchin the motor for a while until i get some solid answers and maybe some cash. i would take pics but i dont have a digi but maybe later since my friend has one.........ok i checked the registration paper in the car and its a 79' model name rx7GS.
Last edited by gyronictonic; 08-09-03 at 06:56 PM.
08-09-03, 06:55 PM
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In case you can't ******* read, I said I do not advocate removing it if it was salvageable! Now **** off and join the rest of your kind at the bottom of unchlorinated swimming pools!
Toughguy
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08-09-03, 07:04 PM
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Sorry the rotards found me Gyro. As usual they will wreck your thread. My advice is still to find yourself someone who can diagnose the engine and go from there. The V8 thing was just an option, in no way did I say to just scrap the 12A and replace it. If the motor is not too far gone, it might be cheaper to just do a rebuild. A typical rebuild kit will run between $750 and $1000 and that is just the parts. If the motor has overheated in it's lifetime, (likely) there is a good chance that the housings are warped which will require machining. If you cannot do the basic rebuilding yourself, you will need to allocate another $200 to $300 dollars minimum for a mechanic to do it for you. Also, don't forget you may need to pass emmissions so things like the cats and the rat's nest have to be in place and functioning properly. Good luck.
Toughguy
Toughguy
08-09-03, 07:10 PM
#15
Alright, how's about I take this one?
Gyronictonic, I am reaching the finishing stretch of restoring a 5-year-sitting Rx7 and have picked up LOTS of valuable information along the way about restoring sitting cars. If you'd like someone to talk to about it, e-mail me at vipernicus42@hotmail.com or add that to your MSN. ICQ number is 11379291 but I'm not on there much.
Alright, now for the place to start:
You know the car's been sitting for a while, so the first concern is whether or not the engine is siezed. Don't be reckless and just try to turn it over, I blew a starter that way when I started, and could have done major damage to the engine.
Go to the car, and attempt to turn the main pulley by hand. It's probably going to be stuck. Now what I'm about to tell you is *only* advocated for use on siezed engines because it's not exactly good for the engine under normal conditions. Yeah, some of the guys on here would argue with me. DO NOT listen to rhinor61's method of this... not to bash 1rx7owner or rhinor, but they havn't done a restoration like I have (that I know of), and it'a very delicate thing to undertake. Don't just SHOVE atf down it's throat, there's a way to do it that isn't nearly as reckless. Here's how I unseized my sitting engine:
Now that's gonna get the engine turning, and if you do it right, will do minimal damage to the oil seals and whatnot in the centre of the rotor (it shouldn't really affect them anyway, but ATF *can* affect them).
The next big thing on a sitting car is the fuel line, tank and carb. If it's been sitting a long time, gasoline turns into a type of varnish, which is thick and gummy. You'll want to take the tank off and drain it, and clean it. You can get it cleaned by a radiator/gas tank shop for relatively cheap, or you can do it yourself. Use this forum's search for a product called POR-15, it's good for that.
Replace all your fuel line, it's pretty cheap, so you might as well.
Replace your fuel filter as well.
The carburetor is probably going to need a rebuild. Rx7Carl and Sterling do carb rebuilds, they're here on the forum. $150USD is what it'll cost ya, plus shipping, which is an awesome deal. If you consider Mazda asks over 1g for a new one, and the rebuild kit alone costs close to $70 on www.mazdatrix.com, and that regular mechanics don't know these cars, $150 sounds pretty good.
General Things to replace:
- Spark Plugs (use ONLY NGK, recommended BR8EQ's
- Air, Fuel and Oil Filters
- Oil (10w30, NON SYNTHETIC! This is a much debated topic, be on the safe and cheap side and don't use it)
- Transmission Fluid (RedLine MT-90 Synthetic Gear Oil is the absolute best stuff you can use)
- Rear Differential Fluid (75w90 Synthetic is good, your local NAPA will have some)
- Coolant Flush. Use Presone's "Super Flush" and follow the instructions. If the car isn't running, just pre-mix 1L superflush to 8L water and top up with water, and let the mixture sit in there for a few days, it'll come out looking green/blacker than the stuff you refill with. Refill with clean 50/50
- Distributor Cap, Rotor and plug wires
This should get you started. You'll have spark, Gas, an unsiezed engine and a working carburetor.
From there, look at your brakes, and suspension next. I had to replace my ENTIRE brake system... $1200 Canadian in parts, and I did all the labour myself.
I'll warn you now. Almost every piece of rubber will be dried and cracked, you'll eventually need to replace it all bit by bit.
And search/read up on the OMP. Then rebuild it. You'll need it
Jon
Gyronictonic, I am reaching the finishing stretch of restoring a 5-year-sitting Rx7 and have picked up LOTS of valuable information along the way about restoring sitting cars. If you'd like someone to talk to about it, e-mail me at vipernicus42@hotmail.com or add that to your MSN. ICQ number is 11379291 but I'm not on there much.
Alright, now for the place to start:
You know the car's been sitting for a while, so the first concern is whether or not the engine is siezed. Don't be reckless and just try to turn it over, I blew a starter that way when I started, and could have done major damage to the engine.
Go to the car, and attempt to turn the main pulley by hand. It's probably going to be stuck. Now what I'm about to tell you is *only* advocated for use on siezed engines because it's not exactly good for the engine under normal conditions. Yeah, some of the guys on here would argue with me. DO NOT listen to rhinor61's method of this... not to bash 1rx7owner or rhinor, but they havn't done a restoration like I have (that I know of), and it'a very delicate thing to undertake. Don't just SHOVE atf down it's throat, there's a way to do it that isn't nearly as reckless. Here's how I unseized my sitting engine:
vipernicus42 previously said (in another post)
When my motor was siezed from 4 years of carbon buildup, I used ATF. I don't advocate it's use for anything other than unsiezing engines, since alot of people say it can be not-so-nice to the engine under other conditions. In this case I see you have little choice.
I've never tried MMO but if it does the same things as ATF, you should probably proceed like this:
1. Pull all four plugs
2. Squirt liberal amounts into all four holes and let sit at least an hour. (up to a day if it's really buggered in there)
3. Turn the engine by hand, pushing the top of the main pulley away from you (if you're standing on the driver's side). You can turn back and forth to get it moving, but in the end you want to be turning it this way so that the rotor edge scoops excess MMO and forces it to dribble out the bottom spark plug holes
4. Repeat the process, rotating the motor so that you can soak all the apex seals in MMO.
5. At the end, make sure you do three or more full rotations of the main pulley away from you, so that as much excess MMO and carbon crap as you can get is pushed out the bottom spark plug holes (the more MMO left in the engine, the worse it is for cat-clogging smoke and other not-so-good things).
6. Replace the plugs (make sure they're good and clean and dry before they're reinstalled) and try to start the car.
You'll probably want to have another set of plugs handy because leftover MMO fouls spark plugs pretty bad. Or at least ATF does, I'm not sure about the famous Marvel Mystery Oil.
Good luck guys. Hopefully this will un-carbonize your engine, and get it running again. You might also have to consider the idea that perhaps the low compression leading to siezure is caused by a buggered apex seal. If this is the case, your engine might need a rebuild. I'll caution now that if you get the engine turning, but it's *really* hard to turn and MMO doesn't seem to make it better, *DO NOT* try to start it. A loose apex seal in a cranking engine will score up the sides of the chamber and make it un-rebuildable. I know, my friend Eric just went though this.
When my motor was siezed from 4 years of carbon buildup, I used ATF. I don't advocate it's use for anything other than unsiezing engines, since alot of people say it can be not-so-nice to the engine under other conditions. In this case I see you have little choice.
I've never tried MMO but if it does the same things as ATF, you should probably proceed like this:
1. Pull all four plugs
2. Squirt liberal amounts into all four holes and let sit at least an hour. (up to a day if it's really buggered in there)
3. Turn the engine by hand, pushing the top of the main pulley away from you (if you're standing on the driver's side). You can turn back and forth to get it moving, but in the end you want to be turning it this way so that the rotor edge scoops excess MMO and forces it to dribble out the bottom spark plug holes
4. Repeat the process, rotating the motor so that you can soak all the apex seals in MMO.
5. At the end, make sure you do three or more full rotations of the main pulley away from you, so that as much excess MMO and carbon crap as you can get is pushed out the bottom spark plug holes (the more MMO left in the engine, the worse it is for cat-clogging smoke and other not-so-good things).
6. Replace the plugs (make sure they're good and clean and dry before they're reinstalled) and try to start the car.
You'll probably want to have another set of plugs handy because leftover MMO fouls spark plugs pretty bad. Or at least ATF does, I'm not sure about the famous Marvel Mystery Oil.
Good luck guys. Hopefully this will un-carbonize your engine, and get it running again. You might also have to consider the idea that perhaps the low compression leading to siezure is caused by a buggered apex seal. If this is the case, your engine might need a rebuild. I'll caution now that if you get the engine turning, but it's *really* hard to turn and MMO doesn't seem to make it better, *DO NOT* try to start it. A loose apex seal in a cranking engine will score up the sides of the chamber and make it un-rebuildable. I know, my friend Eric just went though this.
The next big thing on a sitting car is the fuel line, tank and carb. If it's been sitting a long time, gasoline turns into a type of varnish, which is thick and gummy. You'll want to take the tank off and drain it, and clean it. You can get it cleaned by a radiator/gas tank shop for relatively cheap, or you can do it yourself. Use this forum's search for a product called POR-15, it's good for that.
Replace all your fuel line, it's pretty cheap, so you might as well.
Replace your fuel filter as well.
The carburetor is probably going to need a rebuild. Rx7Carl and Sterling do carb rebuilds, they're here on the forum. $150USD is what it'll cost ya, plus shipping, which is an awesome deal. If you consider Mazda asks over 1g for a new one, and the rebuild kit alone costs close to $70 on www.mazdatrix.com, and that regular mechanics don't know these cars, $150 sounds pretty good.
General Things to replace:
- Spark Plugs (use ONLY NGK, recommended BR8EQ's
- Air, Fuel and Oil Filters
- Oil (10w30, NON SYNTHETIC! This is a much debated topic, be on the safe and cheap side and don't use it)
- Transmission Fluid (RedLine MT-90 Synthetic Gear Oil is the absolute best stuff you can use)
- Rear Differential Fluid (75w90 Synthetic is good, your local NAPA will have some)
- Coolant Flush. Use Presone's "Super Flush" and follow the instructions. If the car isn't running, just pre-mix 1L superflush to 8L water and top up with water, and let the mixture sit in there for a few days, it'll come out looking green/blacker than the stuff you refill with. Refill with clean 50/50
- Distributor Cap, Rotor and plug wires
This should get you started. You'll have spark, Gas, an unsiezed engine and a working carburetor.
From there, look at your brakes, and suspension next. I had to replace my ENTIRE brake system... $1200 Canadian in parts, and I did all the labour myself.
I'll warn you now. Almost every piece of rubber will be dried and cracked, you'll eventually need to replace it all bit by bit.
And search/read up on the OMP. Then rebuild it. You'll need it
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; 08-09-03 at 07:30 PM.
08-09-03, 07:24 PM
#16
And as you've unfortunately seen, the idea of dropping a piston engine in place of the unique rotary draws alot of flaming on this forum.
I would personally encourage you to take on the restoration project. It's a hell of a lot of fun, and with cars of this era, there isn't a huge amount of computerization or complication with the cars, they're pretty easy to work on.
If you wanna learn more about the rotary engine in general, two good sites to go to are:
www.rotaryengineillustrated.com
and
www.howstuffworks.com (search for rotary engine)
It's always good to know that you have something unique and special on your hands.
If you come up with more questions (and unndoubtely you will) feel free to post them. We highly recommend using this forum's search function first though... it can solve alot of problems before you ask them.
The flooding problem will be fixed (almost definitely) by getting the carb rebuilt and putting in new gas and lines. By posting what I did above, I assumed your car was in the worst condition a sitting car could be in. If it was started like once a month and driven at least once a year, it would be much better off, but it's damn near impossible to find THOSE kinds of sitting cars.
I hope I didn't scare you by letting you know what you're in for with this car too early. It's gonna take alot of work, but at least alot of it you can do yourself.
Don't trust mechanics. Just DON'T... Normally with piston engine'd cars you have to be wary, but with rotaries, you just stay the **** away from mechanics unless you *have* to, and get engine/carb work done by rotary-proficient experts.
e-mail me, and don't mind toughguy... so he's into V8s, we just wish that he'd keep to himself sometimes. "My advice is to find someone who can diagnose the engine..." that's you! We can help you diagnose it! Hell, we can help you REBUILD it!
Toughguy - Your initial post was okay, but as much as he can "find a mechanic" and go working on his car, he can do what I did and start on it himself. His motor, which you say "has seen the last of it's days" probably hasn't. Mine was sitting, and hasn't! And if he needs the rebuild, we'll help him through it. It's great that you have a forum where there are like-minded people, but don't knock us for not being that kind of people. By calling us "rotards" you make yourself look like the stupid boinger guys who are too thick-headed to bother learning about our cars and just rip it out and drop a V8 out of ignorance. I'm not saying that's what you are, but you're protraying in yourself the type of stereotype that we hate, the uninformed who bash us "because we're burning oil" of all things. I respect that you're a boinger crowd, and salute you for voicing your views, but when you get flamed, back off... this IS a rotary forum, not a boinger forum, and by far, you are unfortunately among a minority. Know your place and back the **** off.. We are not the ******** here. We're just trying to help someone else get his Rx7 going.
Jon
I would personally encourage you to take on the restoration project. It's a hell of a lot of fun, and with cars of this era, there isn't a huge amount of computerization or complication with the cars, they're pretty easy to work on.
If you wanna learn more about the rotary engine in general, two good sites to go to are:
www.rotaryengineillustrated.com
and
www.howstuffworks.com (search for rotary engine)
It's always good to know that you have something unique and special on your hands.
If you come up with more questions (and unndoubtely you will) feel free to post them. We highly recommend using this forum's search function first though... it can solve alot of problems before you ask them.
The flooding problem will be fixed (almost definitely) by getting the carb rebuilt and putting in new gas and lines. By posting what I did above, I assumed your car was in the worst condition a sitting car could be in. If it was started like once a month and driven at least once a year, it would be much better off, but it's damn near impossible to find THOSE kinds of sitting cars.
I hope I didn't scare you by letting you know what you're in for with this car too early. It's gonna take alot of work, but at least alot of it you can do yourself.
Don't trust mechanics. Just DON'T... Normally with piston engine'd cars you have to be wary, but with rotaries, you just stay the **** away from mechanics unless you *have* to, and get engine/carb work done by rotary-proficient experts.
e-mail me, and don't mind toughguy... so he's into V8s, we just wish that he'd keep to himself sometimes. "My advice is to find someone who can diagnose the engine..." that's you! We can help you diagnose it! Hell, we can help you REBUILD it!
Toughguy - Your initial post was okay, but as much as he can "find a mechanic" and go working on his car, he can do what I did and start on it himself. His motor, which you say "has seen the last of it's days" probably hasn't. Mine was sitting, and hasn't! And if he needs the rebuild, we'll help him through it. It's great that you have a forum where there are like-minded people, but don't knock us for not being that kind of people. By calling us "rotards" you make yourself look like the stupid boinger guys who are too thick-headed to bother learning about our cars and just rip it out and drop a V8 out of ignorance. I'm not saying that's what you are, but you're protraying in yourself the type of stereotype that we hate, the uninformed who bash us "because we're burning oil" of all things. I respect that you're a boinger crowd, and salute you for voicing your views, but when you get flamed, back off... this IS a rotary forum, not a boinger forum, and by far, you are unfortunately among a minority. Know your place and back the **** off.. We are not the ******** here. We're just trying to help someone else get his Rx7 going.
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; 08-09-03 at 07:26 PM.
08-09-03, 07:38 PM
#17
Got some screws loose!
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Vipernicus,
this is an RX7 forum, not an exclusively rotary forum. I thought I was clear that I did not imply to rip the 12A from the car and blindly replace it with a V8. If you read again you will see that I was more informative than any of the other guys who posted prior to you and I wasn't talking about the V8 option! To get flamed for suggesting it is a poor excuse and one that I thought you may have avoided. At first you seemed to want to genuinely help Gyro in his mission but "know your place and back the **** off!" Excuse me for harvesting such hatred. You obviously have some issues I sure hope you can sort them out! So why don't you back the **** off before Gyro's thread becomes ugly due to rotard intervention!
Toughguy
this is an RX7 forum, not an exclusively rotary forum. I thought I was clear that I did not imply to rip the 12A from the car and blindly replace it with a V8. If you read again you will see that I was more informative than any of the other guys who posted prior to you and I wasn't talking about the V8 option! To get flamed for suggesting it is a poor excuse and one that I thought you may have avoided. At first you seemed to want to genuinely help Gyro in his mission but "know your place and back the **** off!" Excuse me for harvesting such hatred. You obviously have some issues I sure hope you can sort them out! So why don't you back the **** off before Gyro's thread becomes ugly due to rotard intervention!
Toughguy
08-09-03, 07:58 PM
#18
Okay, in case you haven't noticed, I *did* read your posts. I am not in the habit of coming down on someone without actually reading what they wrote. I thought I had made it clear that I respect your decision and your views. I don't hate you, or anyone else who likes piston engines, but when you were flamed by a boinger-hater, you could have known that it wasn't your place to intensify the flames in someone else's post and just let things lie. Instead you insist on making things harder.
It's already ugly, and not *only* because of "rotard intrevention". I'm not trying to be an *******, and in fact, if you'll notice, I included alot of information to help this guy out. I didn't tell him to "**** the V8", I just encouraged him to stick with the rotary, without saying he couldn't go piston.
I am not your enemy here Toughguy, now just stop being such a tough-headed guy, and let this thing drop, so that we can help the poor guy out! At least now he knows who to turn to for some great info if he decides to go your route.
Jon
It's already ugly, and not *only* because of "rotard intrevention". I'm not trying to be an *******, and in fact, if you'll notice, I included alot of information to help this guy out. I didn't tell him to "**** the V8", I just encouraged him to stick with the rotary, without saying he couldn't go piston.
I am not your enemy here Toughguy, now just stop being such a tough-headed guy, and let this thing drop, so that we can help the poor guy out! At least now he knows who to turn to for some great info if he decides to go your route.
Jon
08-09-03, 08:12 PM
#19
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Just like you said, "you could have known that it wasn't your place to intensify the flames in someone else's post and just let things lie. Instead you insist on making things harder".
Your first post was right on the money and your second one wasn't too bad until you told me to "back the **** off". Maybe you should have followed you own advice and the "ugliness" would not have occured. I too did not start out as your enemy but your words started to turn the table. I agree, let's forget about it and help the guy out.
But as far as your statement "we are not the ******** here" I must make one final observation. Even though, my 7 is going piston power, I take time to help other RX'ers even if they have the rotary engine and I do so at the risk of getting flamed. On the other hand, how many rotorites (is that a better word?) would do the same for a V8 RX7 guy? Nevertheless, I retract my prior comment name-calling you an *******.
Toughguy
Your first post was right on the money and your second one wasn't too bad until you told me to "back the **** off". Maybe you should have followed you own advice and the "ugliness" would not have occured. I too did not start out as your enemy but your words started to turn the table. I agree, let's forget about it and help the guy out.
But as far as your statement "we are not the ******** here" I must make one final observation. Even though, my 7 is going piston power, I take time to help other RX'ers even if they have the rotary engine and I do so at the risk of getting flamed. On the other hand, how many rotorites (is that a better word?) would do the same for a V8 RX7 guy? Nevertheless, I retract my prior comment name-calling you an *******.
Toughguy
08-09-03, 08:21 PM
#20
"By the beard of Zeus!"
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
Toughguy - Your initial post was okay, but as much as he can "find a mechanic" and go working on his car, he can do what I did and start on it himself. His motor, which you say "has seen the last of it's days" probably hasn't. Mine was sitting, and hasn't! And if he needs the rebuild, we'll help him through it. It's great that you have a forum where there are like-minded people, but don't knock us for not being that kind of people. By calling us "rotards" you make yourself look like the stupid boinger guys who are too thick-headed to bother learning about our cars and just rip it out and drop a V8 out of ignorance. I'm not saying that's what you are, but you're protraying in yourself the type of stereotype that we hate, the uninformed who bash us "because we're burning oil" of all things. I respect that you're a boinger crowd, and salute you for voicing your views, but when you get flamed, back off... this IS a rotary forum, not a boinger forum, and by far, you are unfortunately among a minority. Know your place and back the **** off.. We are not the ******** here. We're just trying to help someone else get his Rx7 going.
Jon
Toughguy - Your initial post was okay, but as much as he can "find a mechanic" and go working on his car, he can do what I did and start on it himself. His motor, which you say "has seen the last of it's days" probably hasn't. Mine was sitting, and hasn't! And if he needs the rebuild, we'll help him through it. It's great that you have a forum where there are like-minded people, but don't knock us for not being that kind of people. By calling us "rotards" you make yourself look like the stupid boinger guys who are too thick-headed to bother learning about our cars and just rip it out and drop a V8 out of ignorance. I'm not saying that's what you are, but you're protraying in yourself the type of stereotype that we hate, the uninformed who bash us "because we're burning oil" of all things. I respect that you're a boinger crowd, and salute you for voicing your views, but when you get flamed, back off... this IS a rotary forum, not a boinger forum, and by far, you are unfortunately among a minority. Know your place and back the **** off.. We are not the ******** here. We're just trying to help someone else get his Rx7 going.
Jon
FS
P.S. Go ahead and call me an ******* or what you like, but I'm gonna ask ya to re-read my post and use some common sense
08-09-03, 08:28 PM
#21
Got some screws loose!
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Already been settled, you're a little late and *ahem* full of smoke!
Toughguy
P.S. I don't think you're an *******, just a **** disturber since you've added nothing of any value here.
Toughguy
P.S. I don't think you're an *******, just a **** disturber since you've added nothing of any value here.
08-09-03, 08:34 PM
#22
"By the beard of Zeus!"
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That's cool, I just wanted to make sure you saw that this forum IS for rotaries because you obviously didn't. Anyway, Jon had covered everything I would have said (and much more throughly) and as I mentioned earlier, I just wanted you to know this forum is for rotaries.
Posting on the rotary forum,
FS
Posting on the rotary forum,
FS
08-09-03, 08:36 PM
#23
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thanks for the tips ppl...right now im about to go to college....gonna be a freshmen. me and my buddies are prolly starta project on this car once we get some loot rolling in. i will be comn back if i need anything. thx again
08-09-03, 08:51 PM
#24
Will Work for Beer
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tough guy: i hate people that just can't let a topic drop. i saw several places where i connsidered the arguement closed, but no. you decided "my name is dumb-*** and i have to have the last word". no one atacked you. no one said "v-8's suck" no one said any such thing. chill man, it's just a ****** forums board