DAVID GRIMES

Am just going together with this, so please bear with my ignorance.

1) On the 13B, I can see what I am certain is the oil pressure sending unit on below the plugs threaded into the block with a wire hanging out. I still have the factory 1981 12A harness. How do I hook it up. It's the only gauge not working on my new cluster.

2) Is DLIDFIS the way to go ? I am all stock ( coils and 1981 distr. ) now. Is anyone making and selling the heatsink / mounting plate with the ignitor and wires attached ? I would gladly pay for a setup since I am a very poor metal fabricator.

3) I have a Mikuni 44 sidedraft. I get some "bog" from idle to full acceleration. It has the jets that I have confirmed and reconfirmed with several people on both coasts and in-between. Is that the nature of the beast ?

4) Can anyine tell me the largest 15" tire diameter and width that will fit under the rear of the widebody Mode 1. ( and wheel offset if you know that, too ) I currently have 15x8'a all around with 205/50r15's. They look tiny in the rear. I'm guessing 245/50r15 on the rear.

I have so many more quesstions, but will ration them for the sake of post length. Kind of all alone with my project in Albany, Georgia.

nopiston_racer

iTrader: (2)

hey david i wanted to post and tell u that i have a kit on my rx7 first gen thats similiar if not a little wider then the mariah but my rear tires are a 285/40/15...and im going to be putting new rubber on that is 275/50/15 so if i can fit that i think ull have no problem with the size of the tire that u want on ur rear end....if u want pics pm me or email me and ill send them too u.....gr8_usmc@yahoo.com

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

1) Plugs? Spark plugs?

The rotary engine is like a sandwich and we typically don't refer to it as a block. The oil pressure sender is located right below the oil filter on most rear plates. Some, like my R5 castings, don't have this threaded hole. You'll need to determine whether your engine has a threaded hole there. Sorry, I don't have any pictures handy. The thread pitch is BSP 28. All aftermarket oil pressure guages are in the popular NPT sizes starting at 27 threads per inch (it;sa little bigger than the BSP hole on our engines, and won't work very well; threads get all boogered up and it still leaks, not to mention all the brass chips that invade your oil system etc). You can either get a BSP to NPT adaptor, or cut new NPT threads on the hole (best to do when th eengine is disassembled for port work etc).

2)DLIDFIS is the way to go if you have easy access to one more ignitor and one more coil. since most rotorheads already have these parts laying around, DLIDFIS can be had for next to nothing money-wise. Otherwise, maybe a couple GM HEI ignitors would be a better choice so you could hang on to your old leading ignitor and replace the trailing one if it ever burns out.

There is also the 2GCDFIS option, which requires a 2nd gen leading coil assembly (with base still attatched). All you do is... well, here is a basic wiring diagram. It's by no means complete, but it'll give you an idea.

You'll need to refer to the other ignition threads on this forum for more info. Note, the ballast resistor remians inside the base housing. I only showed it outside to illustrate how to wire it up to the B terminal of the ignitor. It could also be wire to the negative side of the coil and the C terminal of the ignitor. We aren't sure which way gives the most power (it shouldn't matter, but no one has proven it yet, so we're still unsure).

3) Me Cool Knee? Sorry, I couldnt' help you there.

4) Ask steve84GS. He uses this forum from time to time and has a nice looking widebody 1st gen that I think was built with parts from Mariah Motorsports.

Did I create more questions in your mind than I answered?

DAVID GRIMES

Thanks for the posts. Jeff20B, your threads and web page are excellent. I am honored that the "guru" gave me a direct reply. I do appreciate it. Is the 2GCDFIS "option" superior to the DLIDFIS scheme ? I just want to do it the best way the first time.

On the oil pressure sender... so after I convert to NPT 27 and have a new wire dangling there... Which 12A harness wire will connects it ( make it work ) on my stock gauge panel ?

rotary emotions

as for tires; I have 225/50/15 all round right now. 255/45/15 is no longer made by most tire makes. I used to have Yokohama's in that size, but couldn't find replacement. It turned out I could buy that size ONLY from Michelin, in their classic program. Costing a nice 250 Euro ($306,-) EACH, and 8 weeks wait minimum. Of course that's in Europe, so maybe in the USA there are others avalaible, allthough I remember I couldn't find any in the whole world!
As for 285/40/15: that's even worse. Those tires are the original size for DeTomaso Pantera's and they are no longer in produced by any make I know of. If anyone knows a supplier for 255's, or 285 tell me, I'd like to know prices for those in the USA. We always end up paying more anyway, but it'd be a good comparison.

DAVID GRIMES

I am surprised that 285's would fit under there !!! I guess I will go with 245/50/15 on the rear and stay with 205/50/15 on the front. Might as well. Hell, I gave up my spare for the MTX subwoofer and amp underneath a slab of plexiglass.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Nope. The logic behind it is since DLIDFIS utilizes two ignitors and two coils to fire two spark plugs, and 2GCDFIS only has one ignitor and one primary winding, that breaks down into two secondaries, which then sparks two plugs, you're essentially asking the single ignitor of 2GCDFIS to perform the work of the two ignitors and two primary windings of both coils in DLIDFIS, if compared directly. 2GCDFIS was meant to be the super-simple 20-25 minute direct fire upgrade that only requires one 2nd gen leading coil and produces noticeably favorable results. This is according to all who've done it and reported improvements; especially at low engine speeds (faster starts, smoother idle, more torque for faster acceleration etc). DLIDFIS, on the other hand, is probably best to say more of an intermediate mod as it requires a bit of customization. I'd estimate that there are probably the same number of users of DLIDFIS as there are of 2GCDFIS, even though 2GCDFIS came onto the seen much more recently. If I had to choose, I'd pick DLIDFIS probably with GM HEI ignitors because they're much cheaper new, and can be found at any auto parts store. By the way, I have all the parts I'd need to go with 2GCDFIS, but since I have an MSD 6AL that's been collecting dust for the past three years, I figured I'd hook it to my 2nd gen leading coil because the primary winding better matches the high voltage, low amperage CD output of the MSD. There is no way I'd ever hook the MSD to two sperate coils ever again. Heh, DLIDFIS beat that setup on my REPU easily (the MSD was on my REPU in early '01, then I switched over to DLIDFIS and it's been great ever since).

As for your oil pressure sender, perhaps I didn't understand your question. Were you asking if the wire sticking out of the oil pan was your temp sender? The mushroom-shaped thing under the oil filter pedestal is the guage sender for the stock oil pressure guage. What type of guage does your car have, or what type of guage are you going to get? There are a few options such as the Racing Beat oil pressure and temperate adaptor that sits between the pedestal and the rear plate. It has two NPT fittings for standard aftermarket guages. Here are two links depending on the year of your pedestal (early ones are tall and later ones are short):

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11801

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11802

DAVID GRIMES

I have only the stock oil pressure gauge. I have the sending unit already in the threaded port of the 13B housing with a single wire hanging out. My 13B came with it from Design Energy.

To what do I attach this wire to make my stock gauge work in my instrument cluster ? Put another way, which of the wires from the original harnass ( 1980 12A ) connects to the sender to make it work ? I have a few unused wires (some with voltage on them, others without ), but don't want to play "process of elimination.

Strangely, the big genuine Mazda parts catalog has hundreds of illustrations and not one shows this wiring connection. Unfortunately, this and a Haynes book are my shop manuals.

DAVID GRIMES

Oh... Are the GM HEI ignitors as good as the J109's ? How much are they ?