1: When releasing the clutch I here like a scraping type noise. I'm not sure if it's the master cylinder or not. I just replaced it not too long ago. Maybe 2 or 3 months ago. But nonetheless I do have a heavy duty pressure plate and a 6 puck racing clutch on there, could that cause my master or slave cylinder to go out faster?

2: I'm really and I mean really considering turboing the beast right now, what all is going to be needed to go turbo? And will and 2nd gen turbo manifold work on my application?

3: If I don't go turbo I was thinking of bridgeporting her. If I did go this route how are the driveability issues going to be hurt? I already get only 10 MPG on a good day what can I expect if I did bridgeport?

LIVE LONG AND PROSPER.

 

Do a search. All this has been covered before.

 

I found a lot on people wanting to bridge a 12a but not a lot on the 12a 4-port. Alittle on the 6-port, but thats it.

 

Most 12A's are 4 port... 6 port was released in Japan and hence forth Australia... I'd double check locations...

About your clutch, is the scraping noise in gear or out of gear... Perhaps you've got a worn out pressure plate or flywheel? A pressure plate finger might be bent, or your throwout bearing might be going.

 

Scraping when releasing the clutch is usually the throwout bearing. You can keep driving it but it will get annoying as hell.

 

It's only when I release the clutch from a stop to go, like in first at a light and start to drive. It can't be the bearings cause they're literally brand new, put in by none but the finest, Carl. It's more like a metal on metal scrape not a rattling scrape. And I made a mistake, I have 13B 4-port not a 12a. Always making mistakes when typing shheesshh. I need to go to typer's ed.

 

What bearings were replaced exactly? From what you describe it definately sounds like the throwout bearing.

 

yea throwout bearing gets my vote...

 

throwout (release) , pilot, both

 

When it starts scraping hold your clutch foot where it is so that it keeps scraping...

Drop the tranny in neutral and tap the gas... The scraping will not change when the tranny is dropped to neutral, but will change with revs (Or go away) if it's infact the throwout bearing...

Unlikely, but it coulda been defective from the factory.

 

The scraping is probably the clutch engaging.You said yourself you have a racing clutch.Most likely a sintered copper puck disc? They are made of metal,as is the flywheel and pressure plate.Theyre likely to make some noise when they scrape together.My OS Giken twin plate has the same disc type, and they make a bit of racket when slipped too.Those type of discs are abrasive,they tend to wear out the steel flywheel surface faster than themselves,but thats what makes them grippy and heat resistant.

If it was the throwout bearing,then anytime you push the clutch pedal,youd hear the noise the instant the bearing contacted the pressure plate fingers,long before the disc disengaged and began to slip on the flywheel.

 

ok thanks bro.

Now does anyone have any thoughts on turbo or bridgeport?

 

Turbo would probably get you better gas mileage.

 

With EFI,turbo equals 20MPG highway......but 5-6MPG around town...but who cares right!?

Do a search on turbos,its complex but its all old news.Just remember that turboing any engine is basically changing the whole personality of the engine.Youll have torque where you never had it before.
Fuel delivery,ignition,plumbing,exhaust,drivetrain,inte rnal reliability.....all will need to be adressed in some form or another if you want the make RELIABLE power.Turbos make it easy to extract power from any engine...making it last is the tricky $$$$ part.

Porting will give you better topend power and requires less supporting mods to be reliable.But it hurts gas milage and driveability/torque.A bridgeport will make less power in the usable RPMs like 2000-5000 where you run the engine A LOT on a streetcar.Your 6000-9000RPM power will be greatly increased, but you cant drive at those RPMs all the time and expect the engine to last.

Done right,a turbo will give you a Dr.Jeykle/Mr Hyde type engine.Smooth and calm at average speeds,because stock ports support lowend torque.....insane wicked rush at full bore because forced induction increases the port flow with force,regardless of port size.....all controlled by throttle pedal position.

 

on a stock port ok but I'm streetport. how will that effect me?

 

Im street ported,no big deal.I still get 20MPG on the highway and 6-8 around town.It really doesnt affect anyhing being streetported,it should behave like a stock engine thats turboed,youll just have a bit more power.
In fact,compared to the old 4 port 13B,the TII 13B has about 75% of an average streetport FROM THE FACTORY.A streetport on one of those is basically just cleaning up flash and rounding the edges.When Mazdatrix finished with my engine,I would have swore the ports were exactly the same,just cleaned up a little.It still idles rock solid at 700rpm,still has lotsa lowend torque and it still passes CA smog.

If you have an old 13B,it might involve more removal of port material.It depends on how aggresive you want to get,there are many levels of "streetable" porting.A mild one can be invisible as far as driveability is concerned.A very aggresive streetport can behave like a bridgeport almost.It also depends on what kind of induction you use.EFI can compensate to a degree for port timing,and keep the engine smooth and tractable.Carbs will need more massaging to get rid of flat spots and bogging,especially if you turbo them.