So Im in the process of R&R on my left axle and redo the silicone around the diff.

Heres the axle..





The part that holds the studs is bent, of course you can tell, but while its spinning you can see it, and I measured the run out.



Ok heres the question.

Look at the bearing...looks new, shiny....




CON"D

 

edit: nm

 

Okay, heres the right side...






Looks kinda burnt. Is this bad?

Maybe the Lt is just new and the RT has not been replaced?

Just wondering... Also I have pics of what not to do the silicone around the pumpkin.

-Ryan

 

Heres the diff and where its leaking. It started leaking after I thought the silicone was messy, so I peeled it and I wiped the bottom half of the diff.





I guess the fluid would leak when I would drive...heres a pic with the gear oil at the bottom of the gas tank.



So, if you guys see the silicone around the diff, DONT PEEL IT ! !



Is this correct that the gasket between that is just silicone, no actual gasket?

-Ryan

 

The silicone means somebody has taken it apart before but silicone works great. Where did you get the axle from?

 

Yea to put 4.44 in it.

I havent gotten a replacement yet just in the removing stage.

What do you think bout that bearing Danny???

-Ryan

 

The rear bearing goes out every 80K miles. Was it making noise? They might have only replaced one side.

 

No, no noise, just the bent Lt axle.

I just noticed the Rt bearing when removing the axle to pull out the 3rd member.

What involved in changing the rear bearings? Machine press @ shop? Is there a tool I can rent?

 

Good to know when doing a rear end swap. Thanks for the info.

 

[QUOTE=1984se]No, no noise, just the bent Lt axle.

QUOTE]

A machine shop can verify that.

 

i would replace the left rear axle and the bearings too all of them it might be expensive but then you know you have got all new stuff back there the gears are not cheap as you well know the money you spend on the bearings and press work is cheaper than a new set of gears if you have a bearing grenade. i have had that happen not in my mazda but it sucked lots of money wasted again

 

Yes that's all exactly why I doing this whole operation, and the gears are already in there...

-Ryan

 

The diff on my silver se was leaking in the exact same spot when I bought it. I put a fresh lsd in there and used some of that permatex black or ultra black silicone and it sealed it right up. Threw some Lucas oil in there as well for good measure.

 

where can i buy replacements then?

 

bump

 

Dealer.

 

ETY Parts in Eagle Rock on Colorado.

-Ryan

 

cool. now, how much do they charge compared to the dealer?

thanks

 

Do a search for wheel bearing replacement. You can do it yourself by using a really long piece of pipe that fits over the axle, then use that to hammer the new bearing on. The old bearing needs to be cut off. Read the procedure in the FSM for clearer descriptions.

I need to do my RW bearings, and started with a search. That's how I found out that there is an alternative to taking it to a shop with a press...

 

Thanks good info. Probably a $5-$10 peice of pipe that i can get from the local hardware store. As for the cutting to remove it I'd be more confortable taking it to a shop since I have no clue of how they come off or how they go on.

thanks again

dunno probably anywhere from $2-4 dollar difference.


-Ryan

 

looks like a bad seal

get bearings, collars and seals for the rear and take the axels to a shop with the new bearings...they can press them off and press new ones on...then remove the old seals and replace them with the new ones...

i did this a while ago and i'm very happy without the noise now

i ordered the bearings, collars and seals from mazdatrix...or you could go with rockauto.com...either or...

when done you can watch for leaks by placing a paper towel between your rim and the hub...after a few days check it...any oil stains?...hth

 

If you dont have access to a press then allow a machine shop you trust do the work. All the major supliers carry the bearings and collars. NAPA, Autozone, Discount/Advance. Replace the seals while your in there (dont forget to lube the lip). Its cheap and good insurance. Yes theres no actual "gasket" where the pumpkin mounts. RTV, Hylomar or a suitable sealant should work fine.

 

Thanks Hector.

The Left leaks only, but of course while its out im replacing everything. Bearing, seal, collar...

Why? Just so they do it properly? Is there anything that could go wrong? or should I say that will if they dont do it properly...

These things right...





Thank you. Now confirmed w/5+ EXPERIENCED ppl.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Ill be getting the axle from a whole SE rear end. Ill be picking it up after getting $200 for a doing a clutch job...

Ill need to get at least 1 more job to get all the bearings, seals, collars, diff fluid...

Thanks again

-Ryan

 

update:

after switching back to stock springs and tokico blues @ back and GR-2's up front, i noticed that my wheel bearings stopped producing that 'eeeeeeeeeeee' whining noise; all because of switching back to stock height?

it doesn't look as stealthy as before when it was low to the ground, but that whining noise coming from my right axle/wheel bearing also disappeared. couple of you guys with 'lowered to the ground' cars might want to look up into this as it solved my 'whining' axle problem by putting back stock springs.

 

its possible that the problem is in the NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL.