timmya2

hey sup guys.. just purchased a 48 IDA weber for 600AUSD

and i have a few questions i liked answered.. if its not too much trouble..

first of all heres wat i got



another shot



ok can someone name all the parts.. including the springs.. wats the green foam for... is that just to protect it during shipping..



also..

it didnt come with a gasket.. where can i buy one and how much dya think it will cost? ..

is it gonna be easy to install this?



as u can see on this pic.. theres a screw missing.. hmm damn..

also is this how u connect the two together..?



and last question...

is this the socks? or do i have to put a filter on it? the guy i bought it from said keep the socks.. for it will have more power.. (pic below)

O 16581 72452 5

Those little things for what you said "shipping" are your air filters. They look shot though, pick up new ones. As for your missing bolt, go to a hardware store and show it to them, they'll be able to get you what you need.

timmya2

wats the spring then?

Tom

I'm not entirely sure but the springs may be there to keep the filters from collapsing on themselves, thus restricting airflow. Some radiator hoses have them for that same purpose.

timmya2

yeh your right.. i just asked the seller.. they are just there for support...


now i need gasket..

any places where i can get them very cheap?

and he told me that these socks are the best for max airflow..


he said by using a k&n u are just restricting more air flow ..

is this true?

he also said he saw sum other peeps with no filter at all.. just sum mesh on top of it.. since they are not really driving in very dirty conditions..

also im purchasing a header.. i dun wanna get a cat .. i heard they put sum of the smoke back into the engine thus reducing the life span of it..

are my sources authentic?

Rotortuner

Go onto the mazdatrix website. Thet gave good base gaskets on there: www.mazdatrix.com
the bottom gaskets are under $10 US. You need to run some sort of filter, any little sand or dust particles take their toal on the housings big time, so run a filter. I run a K&N and have been happy with it. The velocity stacks should always be on the carb or else it just wont be very efficient.

CJG

timmya2

wats the "The velocity stacks "

timmya2

hey i just tried ordering from www.mazdatrix.com

and i found two gaskets for the weber

92-0015-05.......WEBER GASKET SET......GASKET SET ALL DCOE....$ 27.64
92-0034-05.......WEBER GASKET SET......48+51 IDA.............. $ 9.38


which one do i get?

Tom

I'm installing a Weber 45 DCOE on a 12A (stock) and plan to use a K&N filter. If properly maintained I would seriously doubt airflow is restricted THAT much. If your racing, thats another story, and I would use whichever method is best. A properly oiled filter really reduces your chances for contamination. It doesn't take much to screw up a motor. If push comes to shove on the gasket you can always make your own. You can buy quality gasket materials at most speed shops. Trace the carb, screw holes and use and exacto to cut and your in business.
As far as I know, cats do not re-circulate true exhaust into the motor. They are designed to burn some of the remaining chemical nasties created as a by-product of combustion (Chiefly CO, VOC's or unspent fuel and Nitrogen Oxides.) The converter 'restricts' airflow to allow the catalyst enough of an opportunity to strip these nasties off. Ironically, I believe if your engine is well tuned, the ignition fires correctly, and your air/fuel ration is close to stoich, you reduce damn near most of those nasties (at least VOC's and Carbon). Heres a basic link to explain CAT's if you want to know more.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter4.htm
Heres also an intersting write up on why headers are so great.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm

If you car is equipped with an EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) it WILL recirculate back through the intake system for another go, but this usually takes place prior to the cat converter..

Tom

If you bought an IDA get the gasket for the IDA. The DCOE is different

timmya2

oh ok thanx.. so which one do i get

41705.021........WEBER GASKET TOP......TOP COVER 48/51 IDA.... $ 5.00
or
92-0034-05.......WEBER GASKET SET......48+51 IDA.............. $ 9.38
or
99005.035........WEBER GASKET BASE.....48+51 IDA.............. $ 2.42
or
99005.123........WEBER GASKET BASE.....3MM ASBESTOS IDA....... $ 2.78

thanx guys for the help

Tom

What gaskets are in the set? You may want to e-mail them, the set may contain all..

timmya2

no reply..

anyone know whats in the set?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You can run the carb without the phoenelic spacer. Just make your own base gasket. If your top carb gasket is still good, just re-use it. The gaskets for the 48 and 51 are the same except for the phonelic spacer. One is thicker than the other.

Be sure to clean to remove all the jets and clean it with either brake or carb cleaner. before it dries up, use compress air to blow all the junks out. Your air horns are a little rusted, slightly clean it with a fine grit sand paper.

timmya2

remove all the jets ?

enigma32

Yes. This entails pulling the carb apart =)

Take 'em out and clean 'em or you could have problems later. (Especially considering the cosmetic condition of the carb... I would find it highly unlikely that the previous owner cleaned the jets on any sort of regular basis)

timmya2

lol ok..


pitty i dont know how to take it apart..

ill probably just get a carb specialist to do it..


though if anyone there has some sort of write up on how to clean 48 IDAs.. which would be very unlikely.. pls post sum urls

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You need to remove the 8mm nuts on the cover and the cover + the air horns should come out. Unscrew the 4 jet holders (2 short ones are your idle / 2 longs = emulsion tube, air jet and main jet). On the side of the float bowl, unscrew the float screw and pull the float out. Also unscrew the bleeder on the bottom of the fuel bowl. Also, you need an oil metering line. It can be mounted on the intake manifold or the fuel bowl (opposite site of the float screw).

inittab

hmmmm...... isn't using a Weber 48 IDA without knowing how to take it apart kind of analogous to giving a kid a loaded gun?

nosajwrx-7

With the questions you are asking, I would think now is a good time to buy a book, and try to learn a little on you own. I don't mean to be rude, but with some of these questions, I'm guessing you don't have a license to operate a screwdriver. Once you do some reading, then would be the time to come here and ask questions. A good book would probably even label the air filter. Sorry.

edit: It amazes me that this has a 5 star rating.

Tom

Here is a link to Redline Weber showing a diagram / parts listing of the 48 IDA. You may want to contact them or cruise their site to see if they have any rebuild info.
BTW- the 48 IDA is no longer available through them..
http://www.redlineweber.com./html/Te..._breakdown.htm

Rotortuner

OK OK OK OK OK OK every one is telling this poor guy to do 5 different things and cant answer his crucial questions streight on. I will try and make it clear.


OK for the base gasket that you originally asked about.
BUY 2 of these:

99005.123........WEBER GASKET BASE.....3MM ASBESTOS IDA....... $ 2.78

These are NOT phonelic spacers, they are a good thick material that will isolate the carb from vibrations, if you make your own they always turn out like crap and half the time wont seal after about a month, these asbestos ones will work great, i have had excellent success, dont use any sealent, just throw em in dry and tehy will be reusable in case you take the carb off in the next month or so.

OK
now, as was suggested, its a good idea to just do a small little rebuild in order to make sure nothing gets clogged once you start running it.
BUY this:

92-0034-05.......WEBER GASKET SET......48+51 IDA.............. $ 9.38

This will iclude a new top cover gasket, shaft seals and squirter brass seals, and some other misc stuff. This kit does NOT include base gaskets. For more info on taking the carb appart, buy a book or look at some breakdowns, they are the easiest carb to work on, once you know it, it takes about 10 min. Jet shanges take less than a minute, this is why this carb is the BEST IMO. Oh and just really quick, the jets are under the screen which is between the two barrels, take that screen off with the two 8mm nuts, in there you will see 4 screws, streight blade style scredriveer will remove them, take those out, the long ones are from botto to top: Fuel jet, Emulsion tube, emulsion tube holder, take the emulsion tube holder off and inside is your air jet. The other two smaller assemblies that come out are the idle jets and holder. I hope this helps, any other questions just ask.


CJG

REVHED

I agree with everything Rotortuner said but I might just add a few things:

1. Don't listen to what the seller said about the filters. If anything the K&N will be less restrictive then those foam sock style filters. Just ask for a K&N filter and housing to suit IDA Weber.

2. When you take it apart to clean it, then would be a good time to find out exactly what jets, air bleeds, emulsion tubes etc. are in there. This carb will not work correctly on a stock 12A auto if it was taken off a 13B bridge-port for instance. You should also find out what size the chokes are by measuring the inside diameter. The float level must be set correctly as well.

3. It looks like you're missing the carb fuel inlet as well. You'll need to get one of those.

4. You're also gonna have to fabricate a throttle cable bracket for it.

And like Rotortuner said, this is a very easy carb to work. You just have to be game and use a bit of initiative and common sense. Plus it's the only way you'll ever develop your mechanical skills.

ps. You might wanna get a manual, I might have one if you're interested.

Tom

Hey- I learned a lot about IDA's just by reading this thread.. I've never worked on them before, so this is really interesting..Are these carbs that flexible in tuning and could range to feed a stock 12A or 13B BP?

timmya2

double post.. ( view the next reply )

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