questions about an engine swap
05-18-07, 03:29 AM
#1
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motor swap
the old warn out 12a is almost out. and it like 3:30Am just 3 bolts that hold that sucker in and then the new 13b goes in. ill get some pics soon of the motor swap. these cars are almost easy to work on. better then old beetles. but the throttle cables and stuff is a pain to get to. one of these damn engineers. oh well there off now and theres no turning back. thanks guys youll help out alot
05-18-07, 09:57 PM
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questions about an engine swap
i need some serious advise about. mounting some key parts of the engine swap and maybe some pics from others that have done this swap. 12a to 13b gsl-se swap. i need to know how to mount the oil cooler and about the fuel filter and the fuel pump. ive been trying to mount them for hours now and cant figure it out. can someone please help me
05-18-07, 10:02 PM
#4
do you have any oem mounts from an SE oil cooler?? that would help you out a ton. as for the pump and filter, i personally reccomend using the unit from the gsl-se(unless you are considering an aftermarket pump for better volume. the mounting points are there. you'll just have to fiddle with making the rubber lines fit up and not kink. shouldnt be difficult though.
05-18-07, 10:12 PM
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no mounts for oil cooler have the pump from the gsl-se the filter has the funny threads on it never seen one like that before how do i get that hooked up and the hoses are bigger on the fuel pump then on the old pump what do i do
05-18-07, 10:38 PM
#6
i need some serious advise about. mounting some key parts of the engine swap and maybe some pics from others that have done this swap. 12a to 13b gsl-se swap. i need to know how to mount the oil cooler and about the fuel filter and the fuel pump. ive been trying to mount them for hours now and cant figure it out. can someone please help me
Don't forget you will need fuel injection fuel hose not carb'd. The best thing is to look at the parts catalog via the same link that the FSM are in. This will give you some reference as to what parts are used and what they look like.
I would place an ad in the parts section for a fuel filter bracket, the appropriate metal lines that come out of the fuel filter and the other various parts that mount the fuel pump.
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05-18-07, 11:54 PM
#9
Take a look in the archives or go to trochoids profile and see how he mounted the FC cooler, it may give you some idea.
05-20-07, 12:52 PM
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the comment he made about the header. what is this guy talking about? do they not match up or something? do i need to change how my exhaust mounts up or something? i'm confused
05-20-07, 12:56 PM
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As stated before, the 13b is a bit longer than a 12a, thats how it gets the extra displacement. The exhaust ports are spaced a little bit further apart so you need a 13b exhaust. Maybe your donor motor came with it allready...
05-20-07, 01:14 PM
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As well as the headers being different lenghts between 12A's and 13B's the oilpan (sump) will be different on 13b's compared to the 12A's.(obviously)
The problem we face in Aus (and i expect its the same for you guys) when we put a 13B in a first gen RX-7 is that the sump/oilpan won't clear the streering arm, so we use a 13B oilpan/sump from a Jap spec Cosmo 13B as this oilpan clears fine.
(Also the oil pick up has to moved to coinside with the new oilpan too.)
I'm not sure what you guys use, but you may have to look at that when you put the 13B in your car.
Cam...
The problem we face in Aus (and i expect its the same for you guys) when we put a 13B in a first gen RX-7 is that the sump/oilpan won't clear the streering arm, so we use a 13B oilpan/sump from a Jap spec Cosmo 13B as this oilpan clears fine.
(Also the oil pick up has to moved to coinside with the new oilpan too.)
I'm not sure what you guys use, but you may have to look at that when you put the 13B in your car.
Cam...
05-20-07, 01:58 PM
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well the oil pan was taken care of before so no worries there. finally got the motor to sit in the car under its own weight no more engine hoist. but i was wondering how to get the throttle cable to get hooked up i know where it needs to go but how do i get it to stay where i needs to be to get it to work. ill go get some pictures really quickly to show you'll what im talking about
05-20-07, 05:02 PM
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the throttle is loose like this
how do i get it to stay tight like this
i was holding this with my hand. what have you'll done to fix this
how do i get it to stay tight like this
i was holding this with my hand. what have you'll done to fix this
Last edited by bugman1973; 05-20-07 at 05:17 PM.
05-20-07, 07:25 PM
#21
To install an 84-85 13B into a body that originally had a a 12A you need to change the following.:
An SE fuel tank and pickup tubes
Both the supply and return fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay
All rubber fuel hose must be upgraded to FI rated hose and band clamps.
SE fuel pump and fuel filter
Accelerator cable
SE ecu and wiring harness along with peripheral sensors.
SE TID and MAF
I'm sure I've left out a few things but if you don't have an SE body on hand to source and transfer all of the small parts from, you will be chasing little parts to finish up the install forever. The other option is to carb the SE engine and simplify the the entire job.
To help you out, download the the 84-85 FSM from the link listed in my sig line and compare the differences between the 2 engines. If you don't have have an SE donor car, I personally would go with a carbed version or, if you're up to it, go with a standalone ecu which will give you a broader/easier range of tuneing.
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FWIW, all of the fuel tanks are baffled, the SE tank has a sump cup that the supply tube pulls from and the return line refills. I have a thread in the archives that show the differences between them.
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An SE fuel tank and pickup tubes
Both the supply and return fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay
All rubber fuel hose must be upgraded to FI rated hose and band clamps.
SE fuel pump and fuel filter
Accelerator cable
SE ecu and wiring harness along with peripheral sensors.
SE TID and MAF
I'm sure I've left out a few things but if you don't have an SE body on hand to source and transfer all of the small parts from, you will be chasing little parts to finish up the install forever. The other option is to carb the SE engine and simplify the the entire job.
To help you out, download the the 84-85 FSM from the link listed in my sig line and compare the differences between the 2 engines. If you don't have have an SE donor car, I personally would go with a carbed version or, if you're up to it, go with a standalone ecu which will give you a broader/easier range of tuneing.
.
.
.
FWIW, all of the fuel tanks are baffled, the SE tank has a sump cup that the supply tube pulls from and the return line refills. I have a thread in the archives that show the differences between them.
.
.
.