Question about engine teardown
Question about engine teardown
I have the engine out of the car right now(just easier to get it road worthy that way). The engine is carbon locked. The only reasons I have to get into the engine, is to uncarbon lock it and for s-n-g's. I am worried that when I try to break the flywheel nut off w/ "tremendous torque", even w/ someone on the other side of the engine pushing it the other way, I will end up breaking an apex seal....should I de-carbonize it w/ the motor intact or should I pull it apart? If I decarbonize it before teardown, the teardown prob wont happen at all....
Mary
Mary
I say fill the engine up with ATF and let it sit for a day or 2. Then try and turn it over by hand. Make sure also to get as much atf out of it as possible before you start it. Maybe pour some gas into it to sinse it out some. If you can save yourself the near grand it costs for a full rebuild kit, then you might as well experiment on it a few days trying to fix it.
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Buy or build a flywheel stopper.
Two variations... One is a simple gear looking device that bolts to the side of the engine and engages the ring gear.

The other variation is a long steel beam. Two holes drilled in it at the same spacing as two bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate on...
Make sure it hits the floor or work bench, or something...
This way the flywheel stopper takes the torque and not the stubborn piece of carbon, the apex seals, and the precious housings.
Top version is about $30 shipped... The latter version takes up more space in the tool box, but has the benefit of being free if you have a drill and have iron bar on hand, easily stealable, or otherwise.
Two variations... One is a simple gear looking device that bolts to the side of the engine and engages the ring gear.

The other variation is a long steel beam. Two holes drilled in it at the same spacing as two bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate on...
Make sure it hits the floor or work bench, or something...
This way the flywheel stopper takes the torque and not the stubborn piece of carbon, the apex seals, and the precious housings.
Top version is about $30 shipped... The latter version takes up more space in the tool box, but has the benefit of being free if you have a drill and have iron bar on hand, easily stealable, or otherwise.
Last edited by Pele; Apr 18, 2005 at 10:40 AM.
Originally Posted by Pele
Buy or build a flywheel stopper.
The other variation is a long steel beam. Two holes drilled in it at the same spacing as two bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate on...
The other variation is a long steel beam. Two holes drilled in it at the same spacing as two bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate on...
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trickster
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