Q abour RE Speed big brake kit
08-09-06, 02:53 PM
#1
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Q abour RE Speed big brake kit
so its only for the front brakes...i dont see how that doesnt upset the braking balance.
and will it work on the GSLSE?
and will it work on the GSLSE?
08-09-06, 04:12 PM
#2
yes. it has to be used on the 84-85 spindles. i have done this conversion on my SA that has full SE suspension. its a pretty staright forward swap. im going to be using the SE proportioning valve with the SE rear calipers and i dont think ill have any problems. another solution would be to use the T2 brake booster, master cylinder and prop valve. i would like to do that, and i have all the above listed parts, but i dont think i will be able to get it to fit an SA chasis. its almost a direct fit into a FB.
my future plans will be to use stilletomans route and install T2 rear calipers and rotors as well, maybe install FD rotors(was told theyll bolt straight up to a T2 mounting bracket), and find a way to install the T2 booster, master and prop valve.
i have been through this whole swap and spent lots of time with it. if you have any questions dont hesitate to pm me or billy at respeed. he has the best customer service of anyone else ive ever delt with.
my future plans will be to use stilletomans route and install T2 rear calipers and rotors as well, maybe install FD rotors(was told theyll bolt straight up to a T2 mounting bracket), and find a way to install the T2 booster, master and prop valve.
i have been through this whole swap and spent lots of time with it. if you have any questions dont hesitate to pm me or billy at respeed. he has the best customer service of anyone else ive ever delt with.
08-11-06, 01:46 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Low Impedance
so how would you go about changing over to the improved rear brakes?
I do not have an ETA on the rear kit yet, but it will be released with a slew of new stuff real soon.
-billy
08-11-06, 02:03 PM
#5
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do you have a pic of the kit installed on a car? id like to see it. and which calipers are to be used? the single piston like the FC "SE" model or the 4 piston like the GXL's? i havent been on here in a while and am about to start my GSL-SE project
thanks
thanks
08-12-06, 06:29 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Low Impedance
so its only for the front brakes...i dont see how that doesnt upset the braking balance.
and will it work on the GSLSE?
and will it work on the GSLSE?
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08-12-06, 04:17 PM
#10
I have my kit, and my TII rotors, and Calipers, hubs, bearings, SS lines. Just haven't had a chance to put everything together. Damn 50 hour work weeks...
To be more of a help, heres a picture of someone elses setup installed.
To be more of a help, heres a picture of someone elses setup installed.
Last edited by Dan_s_young; 08-12-06 at 04:21 PM.
08-12-06, 07:25 PM
#11
Originally Posted by spoolin
do you have a pic of the kit installed on a car? id like to see it. and which calipers are to be used? the single piston like the FC "SE" model or the 4 piston like the GXL's? i havent been on here in a while and am about to start my GSL-SE project
thanks
thanks
It is a pretty easy kit to install. Make sure to research the past threads while making your choice.
-billy
08-12-06, 11:40 PM
#12
Savanna Rx-7
front rear bias and quality/fitment
I bought one of Bwaits kits on the first group buy.
the first thing you have to realise is that there will be a difference in the offset/backspacing. your current rims may, or may not fit. I bought mine from Billy with this knowledge going in, and was surprised to learn that I had no issues.....with my wheel set.... this is not the same for everbody, just remember that.
fitment of parts was excellent, and materials was also good. I would suggest that they add in 4 extra spacers of varying thickness. as all calipers are not exactly the same.
front to rear bias was affected, but it was for the better. I highly suggest you replace all four rotors and pads with new when you install. I did the front only at first and the front rear bias was all fubared. then I turned the rear rotors and replaced the pads and the bias was great, its just that the rear rotors cannot handle as much heat buildup as the rears.
kenn
the first thing you have to realise is that there will be a difference in the offset/backspacing. your current rims may, or may not fit. I bought mine from Billy with this knowledge going in, and was surprised to learn that I had no issues.....with my wheel set.... this is not the same for everbody, just remember that.
fitment of parts was excellent, and materials was also good. I would suggest that they add in 4 extra spacers of varying thickness. as all calipers are not exactly the same.
front to rear bias was affected, but it was for the better. I highly suggest you replace all four rotors and pads with new when you install. I did the front only at first and the front rear bias was all fubared. then I turned the rear rotors and replaced the pads and the bias was great, its just that the rear rotors cannot handle as much heat buildup as the rears.
kenn
Last edited by kenn_chan; 08-12-06 at 11:56 PM.
08-13-06, 12:09 AM
#13
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
front to rear bias was affected, but it was for the better. I highly suggest you replace all four rotors and pads with new when you install. I did the front only at first and the front rear bias was all fubared. then I turned the rear rotors and replaced the pads and the bias was great, its just that the rear rotors cannot handle as much heat buildup as the rears.
kenn
kenn
Also, please explain your last sentence. Did you have overheating problems with the rears? What were the symptoms? Under what conditions? Do you race the car?
08-14-06, 03:16 AM
#14
Savanna Rx-7
Originally Posted by elwood
When you say front/rear bias was affected for the better, what do you mean? If the factory bias was correct, how did it improve? More front? More rear?
Also, please explain your last sentence. Did you have overheating problems with the rears? What were the symptoms? Under what conditions? Do you race the car?
Also, please explain your last sentence. Did you have overheating problems with the rears? What were the symptoms? Under what conditions? Do you race the car?
before with a hard appllication the *** end would feel a litle loose like it was not grabbing enough, now it feels just oh so slightly better.
I used to notice bad front brake fade after a long straight into a short corner, now I notice the opposite, my backs will fade in comparison to the fronts, and yes I track my car on a regular basis.
I have swapped all pads to Hawk pads. the rear pads are identical in size, but the rotors are slightly larger (I think) in the FC like 5 or 10 mm larger. this makes for a lower capacity heat resivor so the pads get hotter , quicker in relationship to the fronts.
Kenn
08-14-06, 04:39 PM
#15
Originally Posted by kenn_chan
front FC calipers piston area is larger, it slightly changed the bias so that the fronts are not quite grabbing as hard "in comparison to the backs" I really don't know how to explain, but it feels subtly better to me.
before with a hard appllication the *** end would feel a litle loose like it was not grabbing enough, now it feels just oh so slightly better.
I used to notice bad front brake fade after a long straight into a short corner, now I notice the opposite, my backs will fade in comparison to the fronts, and yes I track my car on a regular basis.
I have swapped all pads to Hawk pads. the rear pads are identical in size, but the rotors are slightly larger (I think) in the FC like 5 or 10 mm larger. this makes for a lower capacity heat resivor so the pads get hotter , quicker in relationship to the fronts.
Kenn
before with a hard appllication the *** end would feel a litle loose like it was not grabbing enough, now it feels just oh so slightly better.
I used to notice bad front brake fade after a long straight into a short corner, now I notice the opposite, my backs will fade in comparison to the fronts, and yes I track my car on a regular basis.
I have swapped all pads to Hawk pads. the rear pads are identical in size, but the rotors are slightly larger (I think) in the FC like 5 or 10 mm larger. this makes for a lower capacity heat resivor so the pads get hotter , quicker in relationship to the fronts.
Kenn
1. See my earlier post. The piston area is the same -- one FB piston at 50.8mm is equal to two FC pistons (you only add up two of them in a 4-piston caliper) at 35.9mm each.
2. If the piston area were larger, as you say, the fronts would grab harder, not less. Force = Pressure X Area
3. If the *** end feels "loose" it's because you have too much brake at that end, not because you need more.
4. I haven't heard of rear brake fade on a GSL-SE before, so I'm curious to see if there's a chance I will experience it too, once I finish my turbo upgrade.
5. I think the rear rotors are the same size for GSL-SE and FC.
I am confused by most of what you have written. Is your car a GSL-SE?
08-14-06, 05:14 PM
#16
Rico the rotary freak
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I use my car on daily basis. I LOVE IT !
The only thing i did diferent was using 2nd gen 4 lug hubs intead of 5 lug to keep the 4X114
lug pattern,and redrilled the brake rotors to 4 lug. With 18" wheels it looks and performs awesome. Thanks Respeed !
The only thing i did diferent was using 2nd gen 4 lug hubs intead of 5 lug to keep the 4X114
lug pattern,and redrilled the brake rotors to 4 lug. With 18" wheels it looks and performs awesome. Thanks Respeed !
Last edited by Rico Suave; 08-14-06 at 05:19 PM.
08-14-06, 06:21 PM
#17
This is going to be good when I get all the parts around. I want to get prolly 15's, just to get something over top of the kit you know? Does anyone else use DOT5 silicone brake fluid? I know its expensive, but to me its worth it after the stupid hassle with dot3 I've had.
08-14-06, 07:33 PM
#18
DOT5 is silicone based so it doesn't absorb water -- which I think is a good thing, especially for cars that sit idle for long periods of time like streetrods. DOT5, however, will generally give you a spongy brake pedal so it's not recommended for performance driving. You won't see any racers using it.
08-14-06, 07:55 PM
#20
Originally Posted by elwood
DOT5 is silicone based so it doesn't absorb water -- which I think is a good thing, especially for cars that sit idle for long periods of time like streetrods. DOT5, however, will generally give you a spongy brake pedal so it's not recommended for performance driving. You won't see any racers using it.
08-14-06, 08:04 PM
#21
Savanna Rx-7
First, I am not an engineer so bear with me here... if you have an answer that you could explain to me then maybe we can help each other...
my car is a Turbo Limited I live in Japan, and there are subtle differences between it and the GSL-SE, I have noticed to date that the transmision case is different (radically) and that the front bearing sizes are different, as well as the strut assembly itself, I had to buy and ship a used set of struts from the states to install the kit, they did not have the rotors on them when I got them, so I cannot compare GSL-SE against the JDM FC that I parted out for parts.
kenn
Originally Posted by elwood
Kenn:
1. See my earlier post. The piston area is the same -- one FB piston at 50.8mm is equal to two FC pistons (you only add up two of them in a 4-piston caliper) at 35.9mm each.
why would you only add two, when oil is physically filling 4 pots? its about the amount of oil that you are moving that counts. if it take more oil to move the front pots 1 mm than before than your non adjustable bias is going to change slightly as it only allows X amount of oil (percentage wise) to flow through the valve
2. If the piston area were larger, as you say, the fronts would grab harder, not less. Force = Pressure X Area
see above, see if you can explain it better
3. If the *** end feels "loose" it's because you have too much brake at that end, not because you need more.
my wording might not be the best here, I mean it feels like they are not grabbing enough
4. I haven't heard of rear brake fade on a GSL-SE before, so I'm curious to see if there's a chance I will experience it too, once I finish my turbo upgrade.
at repeated 240~120 (KPH) breaking maneuvers going from the large straight on fuji into the first turn, I started experiencing fade on all of the stock brakes, with the FC brakes in the front, the fronts seem ok, but the rear brakes don't seem to be grabbing enough
5. I think the rear rotors are the same size for GSL-SE and FC.
I am confused by most of what you have written. Is your car a GSL-SE?
1. See my earlier post. The piston area is the same -- one FB piston at 50.8mm is equal to two FC pistons (you only add up two of them in a 4-piston caliper) at 35.9mm each.
why would you only add two, when oil is physically filling 4 pots? its about the amount of oil that you are moving that counts. if it take more oil to move the front pots 1 mm than before than your non adjustable bias is going to change slightly as it only allows X amount of oil (percentage wise) to flow through the valve
2. If the piston area were larger, as you say, the fronts would grab harder, not less. Force = Pressure X Area
see above, see if you can explain it better
3. If the *** end feels "loose" it's because you have too much brake at that end, not because you need more.
my wording might not be the best here, I mean it feels like they are not grabbing enough
4. I haven't heard of rear brake fade on a GSL-SE before, so I'm curious to see if there's a chance I will experience it too, once I finish my turbo upgrade.
at repeated 240~120 (KPH) breaking maneuvers going from the large straight on fuji into the first turn, I started experiencing fade on all of the stock brakes, with the FC brakes in the front, the fronts seem ok, but the rear brakes don't seem to be grabbing enough
5. I think the rear rotors are the same size for GSL-SE and FC.
I am confused by most of what you have written. Is your car a GSL-SE?
my car is a Turbo Limited I live in Japan, and there are subtle differences between it and the GSL-SE, I have noticed to date that the transmision case is different (radically) and that the front bearing sizes are different, as well as the strut assembly itself, I had to buy and ship a used set of struts from the states to install the kit, they did not have the rotors on them when I got them, so I cannot compare GSL-SE against the JDM FC that I parted out for parts.
kenn
08-14-06, 11:53 PM
#22
Motul600 DOT4 is all the brake fluid you'll ever need. MANY racers use it. Works great for auto-x too. Only use it if you bake your street fluid.
Valvoline Synthetic is good DOT4 for the price and takes heat well but not as well as Motul. The french got something right finally.
Valvoline Synthetic is good DOT4 for the price and takes heat well but not as well as Motul. The french got something right finally.