OK I've got the motor mounts figured out and the engine is all bolted down. I changed the fuel pump to the low pressure one for the carb.

Now when I took the 12A out of the wreck there was a plug in by the fire wall for the wiring harness...so I unplugged it.

Now the wiring for the fuel injected 13B is totally different (obviously) so I cant plug in the harness thats still on the engine. I tried to follow the harness back in the wreck 12A car and one end came to an ECU and it Y'd off and the other end goes somewere under the dash.

The 12A will start up and run fine above 3000rpm but tends to died out any where below that.

Is there any way to fix that without using that ECU from the 12A car?

Oh yeah the engine did run fine when it was in the wreck car.

 

12a.......ECU?

Carbuerator.......computer?

Ok, you lost me.

 

this whole thing sounds like a bad idea....

 

Well if you lift up the passenger side carpet there is a silver box, I just called it an ECU because I have no idea what it is.

I need a car on the road really bad so I have to make this work.

 

rotaryrocket1- well done getting this far, iou have acheived a great deal to do the transplant and get it ired up. You derserve better responses to your question.

Its a very technical question which truthfully is beyond my skills but there must be a person on the forum who can pinpoint the problem andgive you sound advice.

As a start I take it you never heard the wreck running, and the transplant was complete with the nikki carb and all its attachments.

 

Thanks, yes I did hear it running in the wreck and all the attachments came with it.

Can anybody help? Could it have something to do with the EGR valve or vacume advcance on the distributer? If so how can fix this problem?

 

The "ECU" on a 12a mostly controls the soleniods
on the rats nest. It would take a lot of work to make all of that function. If you were to pull the emissions, you would only have to hook up the carb vent and the dist advance.

Also, did it run well in the wrecked car?

 

You should be able to run without the ECU, because (as has been said) it just runs the pile of emissions solonoids. As far as the carb is conserned, it may be worthwhile to rebuild it and get everything into spec, or replace it completely for something simpler. conserning the inablity to run below 3k, I don't know what the problem could be???

 

i have done this! call me and ill tell you exactly what to do!

 

Well I've decided to strip the rats nest off and see what happens. I can still use the original Nikki carb if I take all the emissions crap off right?
How do I run the vacume lines for the timing then?

 

How's the rest of your fuel system look? You use the carbed style fuel filter too? Check out the little float windows to make sure the fuel is about half way up it.

Also how's your exhaust? Clogged?

WHat about connections on your ignition system?

You're either starving for fuel, choking on exhaust, or dropping spark somewhere.

That's the only thing that I'd think would limit your RPM's...


EDIT:

Damn... Thought you said it won't go OVER 3000 RPM... Way to read.. Go me...

Okay... I'm gonna have to go Vacuum leak on that one... Either that or misadjusted idle or mixture on the carb...

What do the spark plugs look like? Solid Black? Bit White? Or nice toasty darkish brown?

Try searcing for the vacuum leak with a can of carb cleaner... Spray the hoses, when you spray near the leak, the engine will rev a little.


EDIT AGAIN:

When removing the rats nest, save the tubes for the distributor vacuum advance. Just plug those into the vacuum nipples below the carb... Cap everything else off... You may want to leave the vent solenoid on or add a tube from the oil filler neck to the carb as this will decrease the condensation in the engine that causes the filler neck to rust out. It also removes gas fumes from the crank case (sic) which will deteriorate your oil.