Push Starting Works Gsl-se?
#1
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Push Starting Works Gsl-se?
Yes, I searched the archives & read about the flooding, the spark issues,& so on. I don't think it pertains as I have spark, new plugs, fuel to motor, pulled plugs & they were not wet nor fouled.
Starts right up everytime except yesterday. Car had run fine to a liquidation sale I was attending. Came out 1 hour later & no start.Checked all the above, needed to get going so called a tow truck. Decided to try push starting it and Varooom! Cancelled tow truck. Ran fine all day & into the night. Got up early, started fine. Short trip to the gym. No problem. Started fine to return. Parked it for a couple of hours & just went to go out, no start. I'm going to push start it again but I just want an opinion as to why this works & why the intermittant problem. I'm thinking........... rotor?
Starts right up everytime except yesterday. Car had run fine to a liquidation sale I was attending. Came out 1 hour later & no start.Checked all the above, needed to get going so called a tow truck. Decided to try push starting it and Varooom! Cancelled tow truck. Ran fine all day & into the night. Got up early, started fine. Short trip to the gym. No problem. Started fine to return. Parked it for a couple of hours & just went to go out, no start. I'm going to push start it again but I just want an opinion as to why this works & why the intermittant problem. I'm thinking........... rotor?
#2
Sometimes rotaries will get so loaded-up nothing short of pushing or pulling them will get them to start. I suspect you have a leaking injector (if you have a GSL-SE), or a leaking needle and seat if your car is carbureted. -WG
Last edited by Wankelguy; 01-09-03 at 05:26 PM.
#3
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I didn't think it was flooding because the plugs weren't soaked but I tried the "disconnect the coil trick " and away she went. Injector replacement on the to-do list. Thanks.
#4
Anytime baby!
GSL-SE's are notorious flooders, especially in colder months. Hopefully you know the pedal trick, the engine fuse trick, or I guess the coil would work too. I got so good at pulling the engine fuse and replacing it I could do it without looking. If you get that good then you should probably send off the injectors, or you can build a kill switch (cuts the fuel pump) like I've done.*
*BONUS: the kill switch, if hidden properly, makes an excellent security system!
Right on!
EDIT: I just noticed a thread below this one entitled "unfloading a first gen?" Should be informative, as is par with the forum.
EDIT: Right on!
*BONUS: the kill switch, if hidden properly, makes an excellent security system!
Right on!
EDIT: I just noticed a thread below this one entitled "unfloading a first gen?" Should be informative, as is par with the forum.
EDIT: Right on!
Last edited by brownmound; 01-09-03 at 06:42 PM.
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Most Fuel Injected vehicles have a built-in cure for flooding: hold the pedal to the floor and crank over the engine (be it rotary, piston, etc). This cancels the injectors and allows the engine to purge itself.
BTW this "notorious" flooding is thus far a symptom I've never experienced with Pamela. I just barely touch the gas, turn the key, and she starts every time.
and for those of you keeping track of such things, I fixed the idle problem. Turned out to be nothing more than a bit of carbon holding the secondary ports partly open. A cleaning and a few new gaskets on reassembly, and she's purring like the temptress she was built to be.
BTW this "notorious" flooding is thus far a symptom I've never experienced with Pamela. I just barely touch the gas, turn the key, and she starts every time.
and for those of you keeping track of such things, I fixed the idle problem. Turned out to be nothing more than a bit of carbon holding the secondary ports partly open. A cleaning and a few new gaskets on reassembly, and she's purring like the temptress she was built to be.
#6
Ok..when you say No start...do you mean that when you turn the key theres nothing happening? You dont hear the relay click? Or do you turn the key and the engine cranks but does not fire up? What everyone else seem to be gathering is a flooding problem...from what Im reading it sounds like a starter problem since your car seems to want to start by pushing it.
#7
Anytime baby!
Originally posted by Manntis
Most Fuel Injected vehicles have a built-in cure for flooding: hold the pedal to the floor and crank over the engine (be it rotary, piston, etc). This cancels the injectors and allows the engine to purge itself.
BTW this "notorious" flooding is thus far a symptom I've never experienced with Pamela. I just barely touch the gas, turn the key, and she starts every time.
and for those of you keeping track of such things, I fixed the idle problem. Turned out to be nothing more than a bit of carbon holding the secondary ports partly open. A cleaning and a few new gaskets on reassembly, and she's purring like the temptress she was built to be.
Most Fuel Injected vehicles have a built-in cure for flooding: hold the pedal to the floor and crank over the engine (be it rotary, piston, etc). This cancels the injectors and allows the engine to purge itself.
BTW this "notorious" flooding is thus far a symptom I've never experienced with Pamela. I just barely touch the gas, turn the key, and she starts every time.
and for those of you keeping track of such things, I fixed the idle problem. Turned out to be nothing more than a bit of carbon holding the secondary ports partly open. A cleaning and a few new gaskets on reassembly, and she's purring like the temptress she was built to be.
As far as the idle problem, how hard was it to take apart the intake. I've been planning to do that soon, take it all apart, clean the ports and make everything clean and free, new gaskets, rebuild injectors, et. al. Easy with common (no air) tools?
Right on.
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#8
ok my lady is asleep and Im wide awake here going back over posts.
brownmound.. I recently took apart my entire intake system on my SE, the throttle body, upper and lower manifold, 6-port actuators...completely cleaned out every passage and orfice using lots carb cleaner, wire brushes and compressed air, deburred areas and did some light port matching and polishing then washed it all with a light soap and water. Sent the injectors out for cleaning and reinstalled everything with new gaskets (use a sealant on the lower manifold to block..get an air leak there and you'll be cursing trying to find it and having to take the whole thing off and redo it again.. how do I know this? ) and new vacuum hoses. Put it shortly it looks shiny and brand new, inside and out. The engine purrrrrsss at a steady 800 rpm idle with power smooth and seamless all the way to 7500 rpm. The job can be done with normal hand tools and if you have difficulty trying to get to the nuts and bolts under the lower manifold, it may be easier to with the exhaust manifold or header removed. Simple but time consuming...and well worth it. uhh... this has gotten away now from the original thread
brownmound.. I recently took apart my entire intake system on my SE, the throttle body, upper and lower manifold, 6-port actuators...completely cleaned out every passage and orfice using lots carb cleaner, wire brushes and compressed air, deburred areas and did some light port matching and polishing then washed it all with a light soap and water. Sent the injectors out for cleaning and reinstalled everything with new gaskets (use a sealant on the lower manifold to block..get an air leak there and you'll be cursing trying to find it and having to take the whole thing off and redo it again.. how do I know this? ) and new vacuum hoses. Put it shortly it looks shiny and brand new, inside and out. The engine purrrrrsss at a steady 800 rpm idle with power smooth and seamless all the way to 7500 rpm. The job can be done with normal hand tools and if you have difficulty trying to get to the nuts and bolts under the lower manifold, it may be easier to with the exhaust manifold or header removed. Simple but time consuming...and well worth it. uhh... this has gotten away now from the original thread
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