Project (cheap autocrosser)
03-31-09, 01:44 PM
#26
common sense prevails....
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Once you have competed in two events, then you can sign up with Mazda as an "official race car driver" and get discounts on parts, plus access to all of their race parts. Another sweet deal that I'll never make use of. Except maybe that rear spoiler, I've always wanted one of those.
Dude, I can't believe how many tires you've got!!! I wish you were my neighbor!
The Illumina shocks are adjustable at the top of the shock, 5 positions. Take a look at those front shocks....
You're going to have soo much fun at that race. I'm actually excited for you. lol. Just try to be smooth, and don't brake so hard into a turn that you "smoke" the inside front tire. That is the fastest way to kill a set of racing tires that there is. It can be hard to tell when you're doing this, so if you've got someone there spectating ask them to watch for it and let you know.
And add a touch of toe-out if you can, that really helps with the understeer these cars usually suffer from. And it sounds like you've got the same rear swaybar I do: three holes in the end of the bar, with fancy shmansy heim joint end links? Sweet. (Respeed doesn't make a rear bar yet).
Keep this thread up to date or you will develop a nasty rash
Dude, I can't believe how many tires you've got!!! I wish you were my neighbor!
The Illumina shocks are adjustable at the top of the shock, 5 positions. Take a look at those front shocks....
You're going to have soo much fun at that race. I'm actually excited for you. lol. Just try to be smooth, and don't brake so hard into a turn that you "smoke" the inside front tire. That is the fastest way to kill a set of racing tires that there is. It can be hard to tell when you're doing this, so if you've got someone there spectating ask them to watch for it and let you know.
And add a touch of toe-out if you can, that really helps with the understeer these cars usually suffer from. And it sounds like you've got the same rear swaybar I do: three holes in the end of the bar, with fancy shmansy heim joint end links? Sweet. (Respeed doesn't make a rear bar yet).
Keep this thread up to date or you will develop a nasty rash
Hopefully by tomorrow night it will be road worthy!!
I will keep all posted!
03-31-09, 01:52 PM
#27
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Our next event is the first weekend of May. I have the used Yokohama A008R tires on the car now. I will learn on these and wear these out, After that I have 4 used (gently) Yokohama Advan AO48 to wear out, then a new set of Yokohama A-021R's, Then two sets of "shaved" Yokohama A-008R's, Then STILL have 2 sets of unshaved A-008r's.....also have Bridgestone Potenza RE71R's on extra rims for rain tires......
I can't believe how many tires I have!!!
I can't believe how many tires I have!!!
03-31-09, 09:51 PM
#28
common sense prevails....
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It's alive!!!!! It's ALIVE!!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!.....IT'S ALIVE!!!!!
Got the clutch master changed today.....bled the line.... Fired her up and drove her!!!
Brakes are working good, transmission shifts perfect....handling well.
Problem with the car has been hard to start....stallling, and then when I drove it....no power and cutting out/bogging horribly!!!
Found out the crank pulley was 90 degrees off and I set the timing thinking the marks were right........WRONG!!!
Found out the timing was 90 degrees advanced!!! No wonder the engine wuh wu wah wah while starting. Corrected the timing and she starts perfect, idles fine and pulls to 7000 RPM!!!
Compression checked out good, does not smoke like my street driver (even with 3 oz to a gallon of oil for my premix)..... I know I know...that is a bunch of premix oil.
Two weeks from now I will be installing a roll bar and fine tuning the alignment.... putting some fresher rubber on her and then it is party time!!!
May 3rd will be my first autocross with this car!!!! It's coming soon!!!
Got the clutch master changed today.....bled the line.... Fired her up and drove her!!!
Brakes are working good, transmission shifts perfect....handling well.
Problem with the car has been hard to start....stallling, and then when I drove it....no power and cutting out/bogging horribly!!!
Found out the crank pulley was 90 degrees off and I set the timing thinking the marks were right........WRONG!!!
Found out the timing was 90 degrees advanced!!! No wonder the engine wuh wu wah wah while starting. Corrected the timing and she starts perfect, idles fine and pulls to 7000 RPM!!!
Compression checked out good, does not smoke like my street driver (even with 3 oz to a gallon of oil for my premix)..... I know I know...that is a bunch of premix oil.
Two weeks from now I will be installing a roll bar and fine tuning the alignment.... putting some fresher rubber on her and then it is party time!!!
May 3rd will be my first autocross with this car!!!! It's coming soon!!!
03-31-09, 10:07 PM
#29
Just run it in FP that were I run my SA . not to may cars in my class locally,but there are a whole group of eclipe's one is running a superchaged motor with claimed 500 hp. I still spank him with my 125hp / 114 ft/lbs. of torque rx7. its all in the suspension and tires. btw your yokohama 008's are probably as hard as rocks they haven't made that tire in about 8-12 years.
04-01-09, 09:09 AM
#31
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Also since this car will not fit into CSP (also I don't want to race with all those miata's) I will build it for FP. I REALLY don't like all "the rules" in CSP. All my buddies who race in autocross all race prepared cars. Kinda like having a hotrod that you can do anything to racing around!!
The future I will make this car as light as possible. I want to get it down to the 1900# that they allow for this class. Put the RE speed coil overs front, back, Upgraded shocks, Keizer wheels with 255/40/13 Hoosiers, and then top it off with a nice bridgeport engine! Of course I am talking the future!!! I think then it will be somewhat competitive at the local circuit but above all be one hell of an e-ticket ride!!!
04-01-09, 09:11 AM
#32
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Just run it in FP that were I run my SA . not to may cars in my class locally,but there are a whole group of eclipe's one is running a superchaged motor with claimed 500 hp. I still spank him with my 125hp / 114 ft/lbs. of torque rx7. its all in the suspension and tires. btw your yokohama 008's are probably as hard as rocks they haven't made that tire in about 8-12 years.
The date code shows the tire being built 2002 (1 set) 2003 (the other set)
Main thing is I have a lot of tires to go wear out while learning!!!
04-01-09, 10:18 AM
#34
Actually the 240z is the FP winning car nationally for the past 2 or 3 years, but John Thomas is a 12 time solo national champ also winning in EP.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
04-01-09, 10:54 AM
#35
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Actually the 240z is the FP winning car nationally for the past 2 or 3 years, but John Thomas is a 12 time solo national champ also winning in EP.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
I can't wait to get out and give it a try.
Also you answered my question....glad to know the hoosiers will last a season. Here in Houston they have a solo event every month! I will probably go every month.
04-01-09, 10:56 AM
#36
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Actually the 240z is the FP winning car nationally for the past 2 or 3 years, but John Thomas is a 12 time solo national champ also winning in EP.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
BTW, what Weber are you running on your RX?
04-01-09, 11:04 AM
#37
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Actually the 240z is the FP winning car nationally for the past 2 or 3 years, but John Thomas is a 12 time solo national champ also winning in EP.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
as far as your tires go just use up what you have as long as they are not dry rotted.
then go and get a set of 13x7 wheels and a set of GoodYear or Hoosier slicks I am running 20.0x9.5-13's from MidAtlanticMotorsports.com you can contact "Hoosier Tom" and he can steer you in the right direction. the tire are caniliver and designed to fit on a 7" rim they come in 2 or 3 different compounds. they run about $180 a piece and I usually get a season out of them. good luck and have fun.
04-01-09, 06:20 PM
#38
I am running a Weber 45 DCOE and I blocked off the OMP and premix so I don't have to worry about loosing an oil line or the OMP not working.
I am using Panasports 13x7 not sure of the backspacing I can get back to you on that. I think its 4 or 41/2".
As far as the tires lasting a season, I use the car 2-3 times a month and we are efficent enough to push about 100 cars thru a 50+ second course 5-6 times in the morning and reconfigure the course and doit again in the afternoon. wrapped up , trophies and at the bar by 4:30pm.
good luck and always remember to look ahead.
I am using Panasports 13x7 not sure of the backspacing I can get back to you on that. I think its 4 or 41/2".
As far as the tires lasting a season, I use the car 2-3 times a month and we are efficent enough to push about 100 cars thru a 50+ second course 5-6 times in the morning and reconfigure the course and doit again in the afternoon. wrapped up , trophies and at the bar by 4:30pm.
good luck and always remember to look ahead.
04-01-09, 09:05 PM
#39
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Great find. Don't forget, if your going all out you'll want the RE-Speed rack and pinion kit, with a quick ratio rack. Much better than that truck steering setup we all have. I'll be ordering mine shortly. I'll also recommend a Sterling carb. Great for autocross. Easily tuned and a great bump in oomph out of the box. I've been itching to get back at the cones for a few months now, and it's even worse now that the car is back on the road. I'm just waiting for WOSCA to post the schedule for this year so I can start booking time off work.
04-01-09, 10:34 PM
#40
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I am running a Weber 45 DCOE and I blocked off the OMP and premix so I don't have to worry about loosing an oil line or the OMP not working.
I am using Panasports 13x7 not sure of the backspacing I can get back to you on that. I think its 4 or 41/2".
As far as the tires lasting a season, I use the car 2-3 times a month and we are efficent enough to push about 100 cars thru a 50+ second course 5-6 times in the morning and reconfigure the course and doit again in the afternoon. wrapped up , trophies and at the bar by 4:30pm.
good luck and always remember to look ahead.
I am using Panasports 13x7 not sure of the backspacing I can get back to you on that. I think its 4 or 41/2".
As far as the tires lasting a season, I use the car 2-3 times a month and we are efficent enough to push about 100 cars thru a 50+ second course 5-6 times in the morning and reconfigure the course and doit again in the afternoon. wrapped up , trophies and at the bar by 4:30pm.
good luck and always remember to look ahead.
04-02-09, 08:10 AM
#41
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Last night I replaced the brake booster and master cylinder. Now no leaking.....well either one! Brakes seem to work well. First time I jammed on the brakes hard, the passenger front locked up. After driving the car hard and using the brakes, they are equally working well now.
Also changed out to my Diamond Racing wheels and Yoko tires. WOW... what a difference from half wore out and dry cracking Yoko's that were on it.
Now I have a little dilemma.... My carb sucks rocks big time. The guy who had the car before went through the carb. I don't think he had enough smarts to pour **** out of a boot with the instructions on it!!!.... I don't have confidence in this carb.
The accelerator pump barely shoots fuel and does not consistently deliver fuel. One little tube in one of the primarys is constantly dribbling. The car is an absolute NIGHTMARE to get started and stay started when cold. Once you FINALLY get it warmed up, it boggs or just dies unless you feather the carb.
I still want to race by May 3rd.
I want a new carb. This is where my project (cheap autocross) will get a little more expensive! That's OK...it will add a nice boost in power and when I build a bigger motor in the future, I can move the carb over to my other RX-7.
My options where a Sterling rebuild, a Weber 45 DCOE, or a RB Holley (465cfm).
Problem with Sterling, I feel I prolly could not get a carb soon enough for my May 3rd deadline.
I could buy a Weber or Holley through Mazdatrix and probably get it in time.
Which carb do you guys feel would be the best and why?
Sterling would be the cheapest, then Holley, then Weber,,,
Ideas????
Also changed out to my Diamond Racing wheels and Yoko tires. WOW... what a difference from half wore out and dry cracking Yoko's that were on it.
Now I have a little dilemma.... My carb sucks rocks big time. The guy who had the car before went through the carb. I don't think he had enough smarts to pour **** out of a boot with the instructions on it!!!.... I don't have confidence in this carb.
The accelerator pump barely shoots fuel and does not consistently deliver fuel. One little tube in one of the primarys is constantly dribbling. The car is an absolute NIGHTMARE to get started and stay started when cold. Once you FINALLY get it warmed up, it boggs or just dies unless you feather the carb.
I still want to race by May 3rd.
I want a new carb. This is where my project (cheap autocross) will get a little more expensive! That's OK...it will add a nice boost in power and when I build a bigger motor in the future, I can move the carb over to my other RX-7.
My options where a Sterling rebuild, a Weber 45 DCOE, or a RB Holley (465cfm).
Problem with Sterling, I feel I prolly could not get a carb soon enough for my May 3rd deadline.
I could buy a Weber or Holley through Mazdatrix and probably get it in time.
Which carb do you guys feel would be the best and why?
Sterling would be the cheapest, then Holley, then Weber,,,
Ideas????
04-02-09, 09:40 AM
#42
If I were to buy a new carb again I would buy a Weber IDA its a down flow carb instead of a cross flow carb the DCOE is a great car but most racing rx7 use the IDA. The Holley carbs totally suck for autox the have a sloch problem in hard corners. it will bog and starve the motor for fuel. I have never owned a Sterling so I am no help there.
04-02-09, 09:49 AM
#44
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This is the route I would really rather go with right now.
He said he is about 6 weeks out right now. I guess with other folks carbs.
I just need one soon so i can get it on and tuned right!
Kentetsu....maybe you could sweet talk him!!! :-)
04-02-09, 02:33 PM
#45
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I have a stocker that was pulled off a running engine not too long ago. I got it from a member in Mississauga building a TII swap. I can lend it to you for the cost of shipping there and back, just until your Sterling is ready. I shipped one out to Oregon last year and it was about $40CDN, so close to $30US one way at todays exchange rate. I'll have to bolt it up to make sure it runs properly, but I am confident it will. It's in good shape. I pulled a couple parts off of it, but can send those too if you need them. I will need it back to do some dyno comparisons between the stocker and a Sterling, but theres no rush. PM me if your interested, or call my cell. 519-520-1446.
04-02-09, 04:16 PM
#46
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Sterling is a great guy to work with, as I'm sure you've already seen. And I can't sweet talk him, if he said 6 weeks, then that really is the best he can do.
If I were in your shoes, I'd order the Sterling and take Orion up on his offer to get you by until it arrives....
If I were in your shoes, I'd order the Sterling and take Orion up on his offer to get you by until it arrives....
04-03-09, 09:24 AM
#47
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I have a stocker that was pulled off a running engine not too long ago. I got it from a member in Mississauga building a TII swap. I can lend it to you for the cost of shipping there and back, just until your Sterling is ready. I shipped one out to Oregon last year and it was about $40CDN, so close to $30US one way at todays exchange rate. I'll have to bolt it up to make sure it runs properly, but I am confident it will. It's in good shape. I pulled a couple parts off of it, but can send those too if you need them. I will need it back to do some dyno comparisons between the stocker and a Sterling, but theres no rush. PM me if your interested, or call my cell. 519-520-1446.
I am working with Sterling to get a carb together. He said it won't look pretty since we have such a little amount of time, but it will work. He said we can swap for a pretty one later.
If this does not go through I have been talking with Jeff over at Mazdatrix about getting a 45 DCOE kit together.
Last resort, my buddy here in town has a new RB Holly 465 and manifold I can borrow. His car is down (no compression in one of his rotors).
I hear the hollys suck for auto-xing.
04-03-09, 09:30 AM
#48
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Worked on the car a little yesterday. Car is getting together, I just need to get a carb to make it right!
I can't STAND the exhaust system. The PO took a RB road rage megaphone header and connected a 3" pipe to it all the way to the back and hung a 3" flowmaster on the end. Flowmasters might sound good on a Mustang, but suck horribly on a rotary. It is so tinny and just plain obnoxious!! I am going to build another exhaust that will be lighter and should perform better.
Put the Yoko's on with the Diamond Wheels. What a difference in handling.
Here are a couple of pics of her. Sorry the piucs are bad, they are in my barn.
I can't STAND the exhaust system. The PO took a RB road rage megaphone header and connected a 3" pipe to it all the way to the back and hung a 3" flowmaster on the end. Flowmasters might sound good on a Mustang, but suck horribly on a rotary. It is so tinny and just plain obnoxious!! I am going to build another exhaust that will be lighter and should perform better.
Put the Yoko's on with the Diamond Wheels. What a difference in handling.
Here are a couple of pics of her. Sorry the piucs are bad, they are in my barn.