So the guy I bought my car from said he disconnected the rev buzzer because it irritated him. Almost a year later I finally decided to re-connect the buzzer because I think it to be a neat feature.

Well, heres how he "disconnected" it.

http://www.comradegiant.50megs.com/DSCN1051.jpg
http://www.comradegiant.50megs.com/DSCN1052.jpg

My server doesn't like direct linking to photos, sorry.

Anyway, it amounts to: does anyone have a spare rev buzzer lying around?

 

yeah pics dont work, what'd he do?

 

Well, since they are being even more crappy than before...

He ripped off half the circuit board. Just popped off all the resistors and everything.

I didn't realize 50megs had gotten THAT stingy with bandwidth... They used to just not allow IMG tags.

 

Readers: to view the pictures cut and paste the link in a new browser window.

Comradegiant: I've never taken my cluster out and would have liked the area of concern highlited somehow ( a red circle? )

 

Here, this should be better. Where that black circle is should be more of what is in the uncircled area.

 

Maybe you should look at this site for adjusting the buzzer:

http://www.jimrothe.com/mazda/overrev.html

It doesn't look like components were removed but rather that an option was never installed. Could that unpopulated area be for the old voltmeter in early models that later models don't have?

 

I agree...without seeing the back side of the board where the solder would be, it's hard to tell. But from this side it doesn't look like parts were ever installed. It looks very clean.

Besides, I'm sure everyone does what they want with their own cars, so I'm not sure how anyone can say "Previous Owners = SUCK"....

Just my $0.02

Rich

 

^^^^
Oops..wrong quote. I meant to quote Dom...

 

If you know the drag and drop method, the pictures show up fine.

 

DRAGON DROP v>p

 

Well, it looks clean from that side. What my roommate forgot to photograph was all the leftover solder on the other side.

The main reason it pisses me off is that there is a perfectly reversable way of disconnecting the buzzer, rather than tossing half the stuff out.

 

My thoughts exactly. I person that would know how to read a schematic inorder to tell what resistors, diodes and transistors to cut out inorder to disable a buzzer is goint take the path of least resistance first. That kind of work does not follow the path of least resistance.

 

Translation: Bullshit. If dude's smart enuff to defabricate the rectumfriers and cascaded oscillators off the buzzing gizmo, he woulda been smart enuff to just disable it w/o going thru all that ****, 'cause nobody likes to actually work.

 

Sorry if us "bama" folk are too high tech you.

 

NP, man. The double "inorder to" sentence just made me dizzy for a few seconds. I'm allergic to "inorder to" and "asopposed to" and "aspertains to".

 

The left over solder is probably the tinning of the copper tracks. The components are soldered by 'floating' the board on a pool of liquid solder. So regardless of whether there are parts or not, the copper tracks get solder.

Of course I haven't seen the other side of the board...

 

I am going through some of the same **** as you!

I am fixing problems and finding more problems made by the PO.

My wiring sucks, and its all cause the PO decided to run speaker wire in place of 14ga wire, and he decided to cut hot wires and not terminate them properly. so right now i am taking my dash apart, and studying the factory wiring diagrams, and im about to dive into fixing this mess!!!


All started with trying to fix the instrument panel back light!

 

Well, I may be wrong on the cause of the buzzer not working. I made that conclusion based on the other rediculous, more work than needed stuff the guy did.

Question, then: Every thing is hooked up properly, the pot switch is in the right position, and all that LOOKS wrong is the apparantly NOT fucked up section of random solder. This means the buzzer is just plain toast, so does anyone have one I can buy?

 

Replace the tach as a unit. That's probably a base model tach missing options...

I agree with the others. If I was gonna remove the buzzer. I'd pull the buzzer, not the support circuitry...

In fact, I wouldn't go as so far to remove the buzzer... I'd slice a board runner and install two jumper pins from an old computer board or add a switch. This allows buzzer enable or disable.

 

from the looks of it, it liike like all solid compents, ie resisotrs and whatnot, no ic are missing. oyu should be able to llok at someone who has a complete one, and read the values off the components that are missing and then just buy them form a local electronics store and sloder them to oyur board. However, i still vote with the no compnets were removed, as noe were ever there theory. Lots of boards ar emade that support diffenet options that are never put on. cheaper to make one board with universal uses than 30 diffenert borads.

 

also, noticce the dotted line. this is on the side where al the compneted are. on the other side of the dotted line are the missing compentets.

i looked at trhe silkscreening of the board and i see a lot of resistors: --/\/\/\---
one transistor, some diodes --<|-- and some capactors. also ther eis a pot in the upper corner functioning as a reostat. it is labled VR so it might ba a volate regulator.

 

actually i lie. ther eis one IC missing.