is there anything that would cause the secondaries to pour fuel other than the float levels? i have had the top of the carb off SO many times and it seems that the floats are working correctly, but when i go to start the car, the one farther forward fills right up and it just drops fuel down the secondaries.

ANY help?

 

Though the floats seem to be working, the needle and seat may not be sealing properly.
It dosen't take much crud, or deposit to let fuel past.
I think the sealing point can also be worn and needs replacing.
A carb kit usually comes with a needle and seat assembly.

 

yea, all that **** is new, it came in the rebuild kit for the carb

oh yea, i forgot to mention i rebuilt the carb

 

Check for vacuum leaks...that fixed it on our carb.

 

Check for vacuum leaks...that fixed it on our carb. Just a suggestion.

 

Floats adjusted properly? Maybe apeice debris got in there.
Fuel return line plugged?

Thats about the limit of my limited knowledge.

 

Make sure your float bowl solenoid is hooked up. That's dead center on the primary side of the airhorn.

If it is, then try tapping over top of the offending float with the handle of a plastic screwdriver (or similar). Best result are when there is a flow of fuel. It is uncertain to me weather this action is actually helping tap out debris, or reseating the needle, but often after a rebuild it needs to be done a couple of times.

Here's MY theory...

As a jewler I have alot of experience with polishing metal. My theory is that when the needles are new they have a matt finish on them that does not allow them to slide easily into the seats. As they are square in profile, four corners are making contact as it tries to slide up and down in the seat. Ordinarily this should be fine, except that they are not being pushed perfectly straight into the seats. Often in such a scenerio, the slightest sideways pressure will be enough to cause binding (often referred to as "sticktion" in the bike world).
However, once these surfaces rub against each other enough, they "burnish" themselves brightly polished, and slide much more easily.
Keep in mind that the seats are bored out, which means that the surface has lateral (ring) ridges inside. The corners on the needles may be burnished quite quickly, but they do tend to spin around in the seats, which means they can bind when they have turned in a new position where they contact virgin surfaces inside the seat.

Wellll, that my theory, anyway.

-Or it may just be stuck.

 

ok, i figured out the float issue. i had an old carb from the guy i bought my motor from and i used the top hat from the old car with the floats and ect and its holding good fuel pressure and not dumping all that **** into the carb.l

NOW i have some issues though. the motor has 19k on it. it sounds really well, revs quick, ect. but it wont hold an idle. the lower the rpms, the rougher it gets, and if you let off the gas, it dies. there doesnt seem to be any vac leaks or anything. i spent about a good 20-30 minutes looking over the car and everything seems to be plugged in. my dad was messing with it alot when the old motor was in the car, and i dont know what he took off or didnt take off. but all the rats nest crap thats on the motor is on the new motor now because i got an almost bare block.

like i said, the motor sounds really nice, but im afraid to drive it around the block because it wont idle at all.

anything?


sterling- thats a pretty interesting theory you got there..........

 

thats why he's the master..........

 

Vacuum leak.

 

i spent over an hour looking for vac leaks. it ended up being one hose was off, and i was trying to run it with the mixture screw only 1.5 turns out. she idles REALLY smooth now

she is also for sale now since she runs