any one know where i can pick em up? ive searched and can't find a place that sells em...

 

PST has them

 

energy suspension has them u can get them from victoria british or mazdatrix or any race shop that sells quiality suspension parts i bought them for my rx7 there good stuff

 

Someone here pointed me to Suspension Restoration

I got, basically, the whole front end (sway bar, control links, tension rods, and control arms) for 54 & change after shipping. They were pretty speedy about getting things shipped out, too.

 

PST sells the polygraphite don't they? Polygraphite is actually a better choice than polyurethane, I think it has to do with self lubrication or something. They are a little more expensive though.

 

I just read something somewhere the other night that the Energy Suspension bushings have graphite in them too...

~T.J.

 

Mazda Competition sells them, all you need to do is register with them.

 

By the way, I know Ive asked this before, but no one seemed to answer me "well enough" for me to understand, but what bushings are needed in the front? I know theres the lower control arm bushings (2, 1 per side), the sway bar end link bushings (8, 4 per side), the sway bar (2, both for the sway bar in the "middle"), and the tension rod bushings (4, 2 per side). You can also get the ball joint boots (2, one per side), and the outter tie rod end boots (2, one per side) from Energy Suspension if you want, but is there anything else that you can get for the front?

For the reat I plan on getting the Watts link kit, the rear sway bar end links and mounts (if I use a rear bar) and thats about it. Ive heard to run rubber in the control arms, is that correct?

~T.J.

 

You need to check out suspension.com web site, lowest prices around and has the Rx-7 chart of all the bushing that Energy Suspension offers.

Link to suspension.com

FRONT END CONTROL ARM BUSHING SET
$10.00

STRUT ROD BUSHING SET
$15.00

FRONT SWAY BAR FRAME BUSHINGS SET (pair)
$ 8.00

SWAY BAR ENDLINKS (pair) (front or rear)
$15.00

fast shipping too.

John

 

everybody used to say that, but a while back there was a thread about a guy that changed all his rear bushings to poly.

he said it was fine, that you just could tighten anything down until you have it on the ground and loaded.

I plan to change every bushing I can to poly when I swap out the rear end.

 

Talk is cheap. Dont believe everything you read on teh intarweb. Anyone with any experience/knowledge with these cars can tell you thats a bad idea. I strongly advise you to rethink your plans. I hate to see you ruin your handling and throw away money. Ya know, moneys can buy the head of a neck.

 

I am strongly agree with Carl, you want to go Poly on the rear, your will ruin what handling your car has now.

Go see a Pro7/SPEC7 car, you won't see any poly on the rear on their cars, hell you won't find a rear sway bar either.

The goal is to make the rear loose enough that it perdictable, not tight and binding. Which is what you will get with new bushings. Poly works in the front cause you want that firm/rigid to help you point the car in the direct you want to go.

But hey, what the hell do we know anyways, right Carl?


John

 

Carl, John,

A little more input please. I'm about to do a lsd swap and bushing replacement. Almost ordered bushings. I heard elsewhere to swap all to poly except the watts bushings? Any input?

Jim

 

Sure. I got 2 suggestions. First, go over to www.pbandjracing.com and look at the tech article I wrote on this subject. Second, if your serious about handling, get Jim Suskos suspension setup manual for the first gen. Although its race only as far as setups, the info is invaluable.

 

Wow, like that tech article a lot!
Great info, simple, effective, and best of all low cost.
Thats my kind of solution!

Thanks Carl

 

jim suskos setup manual is available on www.gforceengineering.com if anyone was wondering

 

so is it the watts or the control arms that bind in the rear suspension.

what about shortened watts bars to straiten them out.

 

Its the upper control arms for the most part, and the watts link doesnt help either. Youd have to re design the watts link to be an equal length setup like it shoulda been from the start. Ive seen it done. The other is to eliminate the upper arms and go with a 3 link setup. Or fab the upper links to make them parallel and long like the lowers.

 

thanks alot guys

 

Thank you for the help guys. May have saved some money here......er well probably more like spent it elsewhere.

 

would it improve handling if you installed poly bushings for the watts link after you did the PB&J mod?

 

i got mine from mazdatrix and i am pleased with them.