Please help!! Car dies when idling at low rpm!?
#1
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Please help!! Car dies when idling at low rpm!?
I have a 1984 GSL. So my car has been running fine since I bought it, except its kind of drinking coolant, it has a leak in the first spark plug hole, but it's still been running fine since about August. I'm planning on getting a rebuild soon.
I've done about 2 oil changes since I've had the car (August) and I changed the oil this time 2 days ago, and ever since this last oil change it dies when the car is idling lower than about 1200 rpm. Even when I'm driving and I'm stopped at a light, it will die. I found that if I hold the clutch it doesn't die though.
Anyone know what could be wrong with it? And how to fix the problem? Please help! I miss my baby
I've done about 2 oil changes since I've had the car (August) and I changed the oil this time 2 days ago, and ever since this last oil change it dies when the car is idling lower than about 1200 rpm. Even when I'm driving and I'm stopped at a light, it will die. I found that if I hold the clutch it doesn't die though.
Anyone know what could be wrong with it? And how to fix the problem? Please help! I miss my baby
#3
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You've blown a coolant seal. That means the coolant is mixing with the fuel mixture from your description and that rotor has lost most of it's usable power. When coolant is introduced into a working combustion chamber, it acts like a steam cleaner, stripping away everything. Including the lube oil from the MOP, not just the built up carbon deposits. The lack of lube oil accelerates housing and seal wear. The heavier weight oil takes a bit longer to strip away, but it still gets steamed out.
You didn't say how many miles are on the engine, but since new 12A housings are NLA and used ones are getting harder and more expensive to source, I would park the car until you're ready for a rebuild to prevent any further housing wear.
There really is no way around this problem other than a full rebuild. Park it and save the parts you can.
You didn't say how many miles are on the engine, but since new 12A housings are NLA and used ones are getting harder and more expensive to source, I would park the car until you're ready for a rebuild to prevent any further housing wear.
There really is no way around this problem other than a full rebuild. Park it and save the parts you can.
#4
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Read this thread, and see if it fits your situation. Might be an option to consider before going for a full rebuild: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-coolant-seal-repair-maybe-750774/
Good luck.
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Good luck.
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#5
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Ah i see. Well there is about 150k miles on it, and it's a 13b engine. I was already planning on the rebuild, just wondering if it could be anything else. For instance, if I get the rebuild, is that going to fix the problem? or could it be something going wrong with a different part of the car? My friend said maybe it's the throttle body that needs to be cleaned or something.
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rkhanso
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