1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Pinion oil seal - removal and installation

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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:53 AM
  #1  
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From: orchard park, ny
Pinion oil seal - removal and installation

I notice that I have a leak coming from the front of my differential. I attached a jpeg to point out where the leak is coming from. The haynes manual describes a fluid leak at the rear flange of the propeller shaft as the pinion shaft oil seal and describes this as an on the car repair, however I did not fine these steps as described by haynes in the FSM. car = 83 GSL.

Does any one have any experience replacing this oil seal? without removing the rear axle?



thanks, n
Attached Thumbnails Pinion oil seal - removal and installation-untitled.jpg  
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:30 AM
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From: Socal
no need to remove the axle but unbolt the driveshaft, then remove the pinion nut and driveshaft flange.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:43 AM
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If you have no money to have a rebuild done. You can be just undo the big nut on the flange. I would mark the nut and the flange. Brake the nut free and count how many turns to take it off. Its going to be pretty tight . When going back together tighten just a little bit past the mark to get your bearing preload agian.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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From: orchard park, ny
now is there a concern with messing with the pinon gear depth when doing this?
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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I believe that is why you need to count the turns when removing the nut (but I'm not too sure)...
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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No not if you follow my directions. Main thing is setting bearing preload. Ussually does this with inch pound torque wrench to measure resistance while turning the pinion gear. But you cant do that w/ the ring and diff installed. Mark nut flange, tighten little bit passed old mark on reinstall to crush the crush sleeve to have some preload. Its ghetto but no money=cheap fix
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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From: rohnert park , ca
Pinion depth is controlled by the inner bearing shim.
Whenever you pull the nut/flange,you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve and then reset the pinion bearing preload....which of course is impossible with the carrier in place.

However,if you are very carful and mark the nut before breaking it loose,you can replace the nut and torque it down right back to that mark after replacing the seal.A little past the mark is OK,but just a little......If you over-do it with bearing preload,youll fry the pinion bearings.
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