pic request: gloss black FB's
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: North Jersey
Thanks for the pics guys. The reason I was asking is because I am trying to make up my mind about which color to go with for my 83 T2 project that I'm restoring/building. I had my heart set on black then saw a really nice dark blue FB on eBay and it made me wonder. Anyway, black FB's look damn good, i'll stick with my original idea. Oh and it was good to see one with a IMSA 3 pc on it, since mine will have that as well. Thanks guys!
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
If yours is an '83, and you want to be factory-correct, you'll want the aforementioned H1 code Sparkling Black Metallic. If you're not picky about being 'correct', you can also get away with PZ Brilliant Black Metallic.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: North Jersey
Damn Wacky that looks good as hell, not sure I can get it that good, but I like being a do-it-yourselfer with pretty much everything so we'll see how it goes. This will be the first all black paint job I've done, however the bottom half of my current FB is black, and its pretty smooth.
As for being factory correct thats not too important, but thanks for the paint codes manntis
As for being factory correct thats not too important, but thanks for the paint codes manntis
Thanks for the compliments. Dark paint is very tricky so take your time and have lots of patience (both I dont have). It took the body shop almost 5 months to get it done. Here's few more old pix. Still needs some buffing which will be next once Im done installing the motor/turbo.
have fun color sanding 
... thats what really brings dark colors to life, giving them full depth. on th clear coat you'll want to start from 600 and move on up 3,000 grit, from there using a compount like 3m 06064, then moving on to scratch removers, and buffing like crazy. Lots of work at the beginning and to maintain. But once it looks perfect, do they ever look great.
... thats what really brings dark colors to life, giving them full depth. on th clear coat you'll want to start from 600 and move on up 3,000 grit, from there using a compount like 3m 06064, then moving on to scratch removers, and buffing like crazy. Lots of work at the beginning and to maintain. But once it looks perfect, do they ever look great.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,389
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From: North Jersey
Yea color sanding is a tedious bit of work, but as you say it makes all the difference, did with my last car thats for sure. I stopped at 2000 grit and hit it with all the compounds I could find, came out good, not sure if you really need to go all the way to 3000, then again it is black.....
The biggest challenge for me is getting the bumpers and other non-metal surfaces to look good, I'm not good at working with the flexible stuff...
The biggest challenge for me is getting the bumpers and other non-metal surfaces to look good, I'm not good at working with the flexible stuff...
One method I've seen is taking a flat bock of wood and using it as a backing so it doesn't flex as much, but even if the parts are mounted on the car they don't flex all that much. Don't put too much pressure on there.
About going down to 3,000 grit, from reading around, its faster to do things like that, because either way when you're using compound you're still "cutting" materials and that extra 1000 grit is quite a jump. 3m also make Wet less sanding disk in that high of a grit I think too but not sure how good it compares to using the old block sanding method.
Also they have a semi new product (06068) i think the number is which is called I think the Ultrafina SE (Swirl Remover) which is excellent for taking out swrils on dark cars left from other sanding.
About going down to 3,000 grit, from reading around, its faster to do things like that, because either way when you're using compound you're still "cutting" materials and that extra 1000 grit is quite a jump. 3m also make Wet less sanding disk in that high of a grit I think too but not sure how good it compares to using the old block sanding method.
Also they have a semi new product (06068) i think the number is which is called I think the Ultrafina SE (Swirl Remover) which is excellent for taking out swrils on dark cars left from other sanding.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,389
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From: North Jersey
Good to know, what kind of other compouds do you use? I'm always up for experimenting with different compounds, I've only been doing body work for a few years and still have lots to learn 
thats the thing about the 3m ultrafina ... it doesn't hide them like waxes do and stuff as in filling in the scratches to re-appear after a few rainy days or car washed, it eliminates them