1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Panel Lights on an '85GSL-SE

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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 01:26 PM
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Panel Lights on an '85GSL-SE

I recently bought a 1985 GLS-SE that has the panel lights not working. I noticed the dimmer switch is pushed in and wonder if this could be the cause for the panel light not working. Also, could it be the light bulb(s) are burned out?

Can anyone advise me on what can I do to get the panel lights working.

Thanks!

Condores
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 01:38 PM
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Defiantly look at the dimmer switch, defiantly sounds like it’s toast. Make sure it's getting 12V, and putting out 12V to 1V, dependent on position of the dimmer.

There are to many bulbs in the dash, and radio to believe all the bulbs burnt out, you'd think at least one would stay working, just my $.02
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 02:56 PM
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check the wiring under the dash. when i bought my '83 gsl the panel lights didn't work. found out that some connectors were loose.
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 07:37 PM
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remove the shifter boot panel and try and find two wires in there. They should not be connected. If they are, it creates a short and the dash lights will burn out slowly.
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Old Nov 27, 2001 | 07:48 PM
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Originally posted by rxseven
remove the shifter boot panel and try and find two wires in there. They should not be connected. If they are, it creates a short and the dash lights will burn out slowly.
close.... but when there wires are connected it shorts out the dimmer switch and f's it up. Took me forever to trace this on my old 85. Luckly i had a spare.

Last edited by setzep; Nov 27, 2001 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 01:59 PM
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SetZep,

What do you mean? Are you saying that if you replace the dimmer switch while the two wires are connected and turn the ignition switch on it will burn out the dimmer switch? Or, just shorts-out the switch? Now, if I go back and disconnect the wires will my dash board light work?

I disconnected the round connectors that you mentioned and no luck!! I also noticed that the lights that illuminate both the fan and temperature settings nubs are out. Also, there is light on the ashtray that is not lighting

One more thing... how many bulbs are there in the dash? Is the dash a closed unit?

I've been cleaning the interior and last night decided to take out the rear rug since it's really gone. One has to take out the two storage compartments that are behind the seat. However, I removed the rod that goes across. The one behind the seats holding the rug down and I notice some surface rust. I continue to take out the storage bins and, to my surprise, found more surfaces rust. It appears that the previous owner spilled something in the rear that leaked through the storage bins and, therefore, caused the surface metal to oxidize. Of concern is a small box (the one that is next to the box that is directly behind the drivers seat) containing a circuit board. This box contained some heavy oxidization. I'm afraid this box will have to be replaced. Hopefully it will not cost more than the car. I also noticed a single wire that had broken. Could this be the problem? Without the wiring diagram is hard to tell. Any thoughts/recommendations on this new problem?

Like I said, the only lights that work are the center panel ac/blower and original Mazda radio. The ashtray, temperature and fan ***** do not light up). Of interest is a light that is located in the steering next to where the ignition key goes in. Thank God this light is working!!!

Okay... let me know your thoughts.

Condores
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 02:29 PM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
One box is mounted vertically behind the seat. That's a stereo amplifier. 50 Watts (25x2) If there is an identical one acress from it, it's defenately an amplifier. If not, you may have the mid range stereo. (If you have dual amps, you also have the little joystick fader control.) You only need that amp if you have the stock stereo.

Another box is mounted on on the "floor" is your cruise control box. If you dont want your cruise control, you just disconect it adn don't worry about it.

Most of our cars rust back there. Poke at the surface rust and make sure that it hasn't eaten through the wheel wells.
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 05:00 PM
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Originally posted by Condores
SetZep,

What do you mean? Are you saying that if you replace the dimmer switch while the two wires are connected and turn the ignition switch on it will burn out the dimmer switch? Or, just shorts-out the switch? Now, if I go back and disconnect the wires will my dash board light work?

I disconnected the round connectors that you mentioned and no luck!! I also noticed that the lights that illuminate both the fan and temperature settings nubs are out. Also, there is light on the ashtray that is not lighting


Condores
Ok so you found the bullit connectors that aren't supposed to be connected and dissconnected them thats good. Now you dimmer switch is shot because when the lights are turned on with the bullit connectors connected this shorts out the dimmer switch. So you need to go find a new or used dimmer switch and that should get you back your dash lights, HVAC lighting, cig lighter, and possibly your storage bin lighting.

That rust that you found is very common for 1st gen's and mine had it also BAD so I cut it out and welded in new pieces from a parts car. Your car may not be as bad though. Here's a pic of what mine looked like before I fixed it.
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 08:49 PM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Unhappy

You think that's bad. I've got holes big enough to fit two fingers through.
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 09:09 PM
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heh, yeah after I was done cutting out the rust I had a hole big enough to crawl through!
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 09:11 PM
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and here's a after pic
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Old Dec 4, 2001 | 10:55 PM
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I can reach out the holes in my car, and it's not just the side of the fender, it's the area where the bracket mounts for the stabilizer bars Good thing is that I ripped up all the carpet and discovered that there's virtually no other rust on the floor or sides of the car, other than a bit of body steel around the wheel wells in the back. No rust up front whatsoever

Oh well, the hole is getting fixed, and I'm replacing the rusted old brackets with brand new 1/8" steel ones that I manufactured... It'll be nice after Good thing the car's parked though, as I don't think it would be street-legal right now :p


Jeff
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 04:51 AM
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My instrument panel lites did not work either on my 85, the 2 wires were connected, i disconnected them, no work, replaced the dimmer switch, no work, went to auto zone bought a cig plug in map light w/red and white output and use it at nite time, works. my 2/cents.....
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Old Dec 5, 2001 | 08:45 AM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally posted by setzep
and here's a after pic
My holes are along where you have that angle iron. Right on the suspension mounting bracket.

You repair looks damn good. If only I was handy with a welder, much less knew where to find one.
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Old Dec 14, 2001 | 02:07 PM
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Donna,

Please! Please! Noooo! This is not what I expect. Moreover, I see why these cars are slowly deteriorating into a bunch of cars that are held with wires and transplants that only remind me of what I saw in Cuba. I can see the Cubans doing all of the rigging, but here in the US where we can get parts, why would you want to do that?

I’m interested in keeping my car as original as the day it rolled off the assembly line. This way the day that I decide I want to sell, I will be able to claim this car is original and not all rigged-up!!

Now, as to my problem: I still have no dash lights. When I get through some other work that I’m currently working on, I will turn my attention to solving the panel lights once and forever! At that time, I will share the results with everyone. In the mean time, thanks to everyone that has shared his or her experience with me.

Until then…

Condores
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