Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

well, i am getting ready to paint my rotor housings and side plates and i was wondering if they make a high temp primer i should appy first? same goes for the oil pan, front cover and tranny. any particular paint you guys have had good luck with? should i brush it or spray? i want something that will last a long time and not look shitty. currently i am thinking about just the auto zone 1200 degree spray paint, but thinking autozone paint may be shady.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

high temp paint isn't really needed. any spray paint will work as long as they're cleaned well for it to stick. the paint i used, color shifting green, blue, purple, came from autozone but they don't carry it anymore. it looked really bad *** when i got it done, but it turned into a rush job so things weren't sufficiantly cleaned so after some time, it's starting to come off. plus it's hard to tell the color shift down in the engine bay. i really wish i had gotten some pics of it before it was put in the car.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If it is a name brand paint, it should work. You will find the same paint in many stores, not just Autozone.

Check the instructions on the can for prime coat. Some paints are incompatable with others. Follow the recommendations on the can.

Spray will give the best coat, preperation is the key.

Feds

You are better off to take it to an autobody shop. the paint will stick better, last longer, and the prep work will be the best. It'll be more money, but if you are going to the effort to paint your motor, get it done right!

John64

Its all in the prep. Take youor time, degresse it all sand lightly, primer, paint!

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I like using self-etching primer...it really bites into the surface. I used it when I painted my MGB motor a few years ago...still looks like new. I just used it on the 13B I'm rebuilding also, but haven't had it running yet, so I can't give any results.

Good luck.
Rich

christaylor

For the record, "regular" spraypaint (Rustoleum) will not survive very long on a racecar motor. As a matter of fact, it doesn't last beyond the first stint of a 6-hour enduro.

brak

iTrader: (3)

I've had good results with VHT engine paints (spray) which are commonly available at most auto parts stores.

as stated earlier, cleaning is the key. If you have access to a steam cleaner, that's your best bet. My buddy's father has a steam cleaning booth at his workplace, and he blasts all my blocks. gets every nook and cranny.

Todd Staples

Does VHT paints have a good color selection? I am trying to decide what to paint mine before I reassemble it. I am going to bead blast everything so they should be good and clean. I have a red car, thought alum silver for the rotor housings and front cover and gunmetal gray for the steel parts. Just don't want it the same color as the car. Any suggestions.
Todd

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Something like this? Not paint, powdercoat.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

^^^ thats amazing, I wish my engine was as somewhere near as cool looking as that...

Todd Staples

Looks great! Don't know if I want to spend that much to powder coat. What did it run? What part of NW MO do live? I was raised and went to High School at Tarkio and lived in Rockport for about 17 years after I was married. I live in the Springfield, MO area and I know there are a few places down here that powder coat.
Todd

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I did the powdercoat myself. Doesn't cost much once you're set up with the equipment, just very time consuming and easy to f'kup.

Todd, you sent me a pm a while back, I'm in St. Joe.

Here's another pic of the engine assembled.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

looks like a brand new engine, awesome...

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Are the rotor housings powder coated too? or did you treat/clean the aluminum?

Did you powder coat it as a fully assembled engine, or as individual housings?

How did you mask off areas you didn't want coated?

and the golden question:

That looks forkin' awesome.. can you do mine ?

Jon

Todd Staples

That's right, I remember now. It looks great. I'm doing a mild street port on mine and running an Edelbrock 600 on it with RB headers. Also going to convert over to the air/oil cooler.
Thanks. If I ever bring my 7 up through there I will try to contact you.
Later,
Todd

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

This is my first rebuild, went whole hog and bridgeported the end plates, large street on the primaries.

The irons and housings were masked and bead blasted, seperately, cleaned, then taped off with high temp tape for the powdercoat.

Vipernicus42, I could probably do yours, but shipping would kill the efficiency of cost. You could find someone more local to you, but it is not cheap to do, that is why I do ALL of my own work.

Since I'm bridgeporting, I had to add a few more parts to the car , see pics below.

Stock tire in the 2nd pic, on the right, is for size reference.

Snapshot

I selected black for my last engine build. Did "MAZDA blue" for the one before. The housings were painted to last & never chipped, rusted or bleeded.

ArmySoldier

Have you tried POR 15? check out: http://www.por15.com/ they have whatever you need for surface covering. My neighbor swears by it, hell ....he swears alot come to think of it. Anyhow, I ordered a 'startup kit' for $15, and they even have self etching primer. Just waiting on my new engine to get here.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

thanks for all the ideas guys
i particulry like the idea of having it professionaly done since i am not much of a painter. how much would something like that cost you think?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Honestly, do it yourself. Just do some research and ask the pros how to do it properly. My autobody paint supplier, who paints himself, has been a great resource. This is how I learned many of my skills. the plus side is you will have the satisfaction of having the hands on experience.

While the engine is out dress and detail the engine bay. Take off all those little parts, sand, clean, rust proof, prime and paint them. By the time that is done you should be ready to tackle the motor itself.

When I work on my cars, anything that comes off, gets renewed before it goes back on. Nothing looks worse than a brand new engine sitting in a 20 year old crudded up engine bay.

Max7

off the shelf Autozone High Temp red paint. stays looking that good for years, I've done 4 motors with it and its the best bang for the buck way to paint the motor.

Rx7carl

I did my racecar motor's irons with hi temp rattle can spray paint. Looked great at first. still looks ok but the sheen is gone. Its now dull, but still very intact. Nice job on the powdercoat. It will definately outlast paint. Now that I'm all setup, Im a powdercoating fool. It is a fair investment in $$$ but the finish is mucho superior to paint. [shameless plug] Look for updates soon over on the website. I will be offering this service to all interested. [/shameless plug]

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Why do people leave the studs in for the A/C, as pictured above? Are they readily removable? Max, did you paint your motor as a short block or did you take it completely apart?

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

i pull the a/c studs out with vice grips.