TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Just like the title says:

Other than the OEM one, what distributor are you running?

After getting the carb issue solved, it kept feeling like it was off-time (Odd hesitation, and wompy idle)...

Just for S&G, tonight, I pulled the cap of and...!

3 pins, sheared in half, and a nice tract carved into the housing (in a couple places, all the way through.

So I'm gonna hafta replace it, though preferably with something OTHER than stock.

Any suggestions on which one?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the dizzy for a rotary engine is unique to the engine. there isn't anything else that i'm aware of. everything in the aftermarket is for piston engines.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

really the dizzy is not a huge performance increasing part, especially when running it locked for boost. At that point it is simply a trigger, similar to a crank angle sensor (CAS) on a 2nd gen. It is simply sending a trigger signal to fire the coils. Your real performance increase will come from using better/stronger coils and/or a few MSD boxes. You can also switch to direct fire ignition for a little boost as well. The gains offered from ignition upgrades on N/A motors are minuscule at best, and are usually perceived to be greater on the "butt dyno", but on a turbo car having a strong, healthy ignition is necessary and can make a huge impact on HP.

splat_mat

iTrader: (3)

Can the distributors be changed between any of the rotary engins? Can you use a fb 12a distributor in a s4 13b?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

^yes. done many times when swapping into a 1st gen, along with a few other things like the front cover and gslse oil pan.

Kentetsu

The reason that your cap looked that way is because it is very easy to install it incorrectly, which allows the rotor to hit the cap as it rotates. Usually its pretty noisy until it finishes breaking the contacts off the cap. Just grab a new cap and make sure it is firmly seated before snapping the clips on...





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81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

I'm confused.... is this just a damaged cap and rotor??? pics might help. If so, just replace the cap and rotor.... done deal.

splat_mat

iTrader: (3)

So I have a s4 13b and a 12a I can just bolt the front cover and distributor to the 13b and it will work? What about the sparkpluggs being slightly different location on the s4? And should I use the 12a pulleys for the timing or the 13b ones?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes the distributor and CAS interchange.

the plugs being in a different location does not affect when they spark. -5BTDC refers to where the Eshaft, and rotors are, it doesn't matter where the spark plug is.

i'm not sure it matters which pulleys you use, that's actually a good question. in theory both work. however you'd want to double check that the timing is correct when its assembled. on a 12A the leading mark is TDC, so the engine should be on TDC, on a 13B the leading mark is -5 so the engine should be @-5. its simple to check.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

One exception: FB dizzies are interchangeable. SA dizzies are year-specific.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Yup. Got a new C&R, today (Advanced ACTUALLY had one in STOCK!), so that's going on, tonight.

I thought it odd that it kept feeling like it was jumping off, timing, but this discovery was purely coincidental.

I guess it's kinda good that the twin MSD coils weren't discharging with all of their might - potentially could've been bad;my tweaking the carb, and all (lotta fuel spewed about the engine, every so often. )

Thanks, guys.