Crit

iTrader: (6)

Alright, so I sold my extra GSL-SE, and the original is getting the attention it deserves. When I first set the TPS, I could never register voltage on both pins. I've since made a test light, and tested it on the car I just sold - it works fine.

Tonight I tested it again, and the second light that's supposed to come on (then turned back off by 1/4 turn) comes on, but the first one never does. Can anyone tell me what drives the test lights, and what might cause the first one not to register any voltage?

I've got a spare ECU if that helps, but I'd like to understand the problem first.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Stupid question, are you sure both bulbs are good? I fought with one until I changed out the bulbs. Next thing is the engine needs to be warmed up and the throttle linkage needs to return to the idle position. As near as I can tell from the wiring diagram. Sec 50, p. 14, the green test connector ties into the ecu.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, before I sold the other car, I tested back to back on my car and the second one. I really just wanted to know which circuit was the dead one. I'd previously done the test with a voltmeter and just thought I was crazy for only seeing one. Now I can see that I'm just not smart enough to see where the problem is.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i like to open the throttle a little, and then push the tps plunger in by hand. that way you can kinda see where the correct spot is.

it'll light both lights somewhere.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Crit,

The lights are really just showing the state of the vent/vac solenoids. You can see on the wiring diagram that the TPS connector just connects to the terminals for the Vent and Vac solenoids at the ECU.

When you adjust the TPS so that only one light is on, what you are really doing is adjusting the TPS so that the Vac solenoid is ON and the Vent solenoid is OFF. If you are only getting one light no matter what, there are a few possibilities:

1. ECU problem (bad connection at terminal, damage to this part of the circuit, etc.)
2. wiring problem (broken connection near the ECU or broken between the test connector and the rest of the harness).

Try to test the voltages at the vent/vac connector instead. If you can get one or both of them to show a voltage (between 'eye' and 'mouth' of connector), you know that the problem is in the wiring to the test connector. If you still can only get one to work, then I would try to swap the ECU first. If this doesn't work, you'll have to start doing continuity tests between the vent/vac solenoids and at the ECU connector to see if maybe you have a broken wire or something.

Good luck.

Kent

Crit

iTrader: (6)

So what happens to those that remove the vent/vac solenoids during a rat's nest removal? Thanks for the info, Kent, and I'll troubleshoot it a little more tonight.