staticpat

The car was originally a GSL-SE, but I swapped in a carbed motor. I am trying to get rid of anything in the engine bay and associated wiring that I don't need. I also have no more power steering, AC, cruise.....

Overview of what I have going on



The first is on the passenger side. Most of this bundle is the EFI wiring and I plan on pulling it. The only thing questionable is the circled connector. All the wires are black/yellow like grounds. Just want to make sure its good to remove. Also I have no idea what the harness with the arrow pointing to it is for. I don't think its for the headlights/turns etc.



The second thing is a few items on the drivers side. I have no clue if these are solenoids, relays or what. Anyone know what they are or what they do? Safe to remove?

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Thanks much for any help.

MaX PoWeR

iTrader: (2)

did u jump the fuel pump? i went 47 oer from rotary shack(boost preped) n having trouble with the fuel pump. want to no if you know how to jump the fuel pump.

thx bryan

staticpat

Well fast forward a few weeks and the car doesn't start. My fuel pump doesn't get a signal while cranking, and my coils don't get 12V. I read that if the trailing coil doesn't get power than neither will the pump.

The harness in my second picture has the same colors as the coils. If anyone has advice on what to jump or wire back let me know. I'll be studying diagrams until I figure it out.

Also I removed all the computers and wiring from the passenger side. Maybe this was a bad idea.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

ditch the socks. believe it or not, it will run better with just a regular K&N oval filter or without one.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The stock SE system goes through the main relay (which is the picture of dual relays and black caps) and the fuel pump is activated when you start cranking the engine and the AFM door opens. Also the trailing ignitor is in the system.

So without that system in tact you will have to figure out how to wire it like the 84-85 models since they also go through the trailing ignitor and have a fuel pump relay.

You are going to have to look at the FSM wiring for the 84-85 carbureted models to determine how to do this.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Wire harness in the second picture goes to the AFM, the A/F pot. and two empty plugs. The three pronged green plug is for adjusting the TPS. The 2 pronged white plug is the short connector for the fuel pump. Connect the two terminals together and the fuel pump will come on whenever the ignition is turned on.

The 2 black cylinders in the third picture are the main relays. One supplies switched power to the injectors and the other supplies switched power to the coils. The one for the coils connects to plug B-33. This is a four wire plug. The Black/yellow wire goes to the + terminal on both coils. The White wire is constant 12V. The Black/white wire is switched 12V. The Black wire goes to ground. Removing the ECU should have no effect on this relay. The other relays in that area are for the AC and ACV. I don't think you will need any of those.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Doc made a good point. (I was typing while he was posting) The Black/yellow wire that connects to the coils also connects to both ignitors.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Very informative post!

staticpat

Thanks for the help. I'm looking through the schematics. I'll see what I can figure out.

And my engine bay looks like this now, no socks .

staticpat

I think that's enough to get me going. We'll see tomorrow, thanks.

EDIT: It looks like the tach signal reads directly off the trailing coil too. So since my tach doesn't bounce when trying to start that's probably a pretty good indicator.

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

ive personally eliminated almost all stock engine wiring aside from the oil pressure guage and coolant temp wires. ignition was done via MSD's, the lighting wiring was extended and somewhat hidden, and battery/power distribution has been relocated.


this is what was left after removal and rewiring

staticpat

Well I just wired the coils to the battery to see if I could get the motor running. It worked like a charm. The motor ran great and idled awesome right up until the time the coolant system overp-ressurized and the radiator blew a couple holes and I got sprayed in the face. Other than needing new coolant seals, the engine runs like a top.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

are you still running the SE fuel pump?

staticpat

I was using the SE pump run through a Mallory FPR to bump the pressure down. It ran fine at idle, but I never got a chance to see if I ran out of fuel up top. I have Bosch 300lph sitting around waiting for me to buy fittings. Of course its going to be a while before I try to run the car again.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you wont run out of fuel with the SE pump..if anything its too much.