1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Omp kicked the bucket. Premix time.

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Old 04-04-04, 11:52 PM
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Question Omp kicked the bucket. Premix time.

Okay. a couple of days ago I tested my omp according to the haynes manual and it read fine. today i found out that the linkage was not hooked up to it. I hooked it up and i dont think it really pumps any thing. Ive decidid that im just going to premix.

1 - What is the best way to just like turn off the omp so i am not getting both motor and 2 cycle oil?

2 - I also wanted to make sure the the correct amount of 2-cycle oil was 1ounce per gallon.

3 - And should i use synthetic 2-cycle or not?
Old 04-04-04, 11:56 PM
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All i can say is HELL YES!!! premix is awesome... your OMP is probably fine though (they drip at full open not like its injecting a shitload into the engine)
1) unbolt the OMP and put a blockoff plate in it's place
2)that is the correct ratio
3)sythetic does not burn, it leaves a crappy residue, and is generally not recommended for rotaries (only in certain special cases). Use the valvoline 2 cylce oil its pretty good, clean burning too
Old 04-05-04, 12:03 AM
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be sure to remove the OMP drivegear and shaft. And when installing blockoff plate, use hylamar to seal it off. Or you could fab a gasket out of a manila file folder. Hylamar is easier, faster, and probably would last longer.
Old 04-05-04, 01:34 AM
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okay thanks. Where is the drive gear and shaft. will it be visible when unbolt the omp and is the blockoff just going to be an easy flat piece or hard to make?
Old 04-05-04, 01:35 AM
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wat if u cant be fkd taking off the omp, or cant get a plate, can you just make it so the lever is at the bottom and run premix?
Old 04-05-04, 01:50 AM
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Leaving the lever down and premixing is the cheapass way. Blockoff plates are easy to make, cheap to buy, and much more professional.
The drivegear and shaft come out when you unbolt the OMP.
Old 04-05-04, 09:34 AM
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sounds good. im doing that today.
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