claytonsmith

ok guys ( girls??) im looking at an 85 gsl with 75K original miles on it... it runs, but idles at 3400 rpms... apparently it needs a carb or has a vacume leak or something



i'd like to eliminate all the rats nest, and plan on keeping the stock port motor for a while.. or until it pops...

so heres my question.

can the nikki be easily made to run well with the rats nest removed? and is it practical to do this? or should i look into a webber or a holley carb and manifold? ( remember... i;m poor here)

this will be a daily driver so it has to be reliable...thats why im concerned with practicality etc when using the nikki minus the emissions ****/ rats nest

thanks!!

-Clayton

Sterling

Yes, the Nikki can easily be made to run very well without the rat's nest.
Eliminating the nest eliminates a great number of possible vacuum leak sources, which is what it may be suffering from.
Other possibilities include your idle adjustment, and linkage binding.

Your best "bang for the buck" is a Sterling Carb modded Nikki.
It flows 450 cfm, and is completely tunable throughout the rpm range, unlike a Holley, and offers the low end that a 2 barrel cannot.
Click on my signature photo to learn more.

Keaponlaffen

*Insert Shameless Plug Here *

Better be careful man, the Administrator Police might get you




You might want to check the compression on the car before you buy it, or take it for a test drive. If it has no power, it might only idle at 3400 rpm because it's running on one rotor...

Just because it has 75K miles on it doesn't mean anything

claytonsmith

oh it shall be driven before it gets bought.. and i'll show up with compression tester in hand.


the cool part is hes throwing in a SP block ( a rather large port too) if i DO decide to buy the car.... but i think a seal is sticking on it... its a fresh rebuild but apparently has no compression on one rotor.. well see

thanks

sterling i'll check out your stuff

high-RPM

is there 5 digits on the odometer
my SA has 85K kms on it and i'm 90 percent certain that it would be more like 185 or 285 if it still had the original engine

(if it lasted that long )

claytonsmith

nah theyre original. i know the history of the car all the way back to about 1986. it was my friends dads car and then it floated around my hometown for a year until the current owner got it.

high-RPM

ahhhh icic
kewl
mind you.... that many miles can mean nothing if the car wasn't treated properly

claytonsmith

yes yes i know. i think im gonna rebuild the carb myself following sterling's tutorial... maybe itll come out right.. and if not.. oh well i'll send it off to be built.

what shop manual would you guys say is the best?

haynes or something?


thanks!

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I think the Factory Manuals are probably the best resource, though I have never rebuilt a carb . Ebay has theme regularly for around $25-40 or about $85 new if your flush... My 1980 has a separate Factory carb rebuild manual as well, but I don't know if this was done for all model years...
You mentioned compression checking. You do realize that it requires a special Mazda Checker to do a rotary, right?? I'm not sure how much good a regular check would be. Prehaps other forum folk have thoughts...
Stu Aull
80 GSs
Alaska

Sterling

A Haynes manual has many more, and better quality illustrations and detail rebuild instructions.
The factory shop manual is very disappointing.

A regular compression tester can be used if you remove the schradder valve.

inittab

I even think the Haynes manual is a better resource for rotary engine rebuilding too. Go figure.

claytonsmith

yup i realize about the comp testers... i was reading up about them on kevin landers site... more than likely i'll use his ghetto fabulous method.. ( no tester required) unless i can borrow a rotary tester from someone

Nut Job

whats his website address?

claytonsmith

www.rotaryresurrection.com

he's on here... hes rebuilt a few motors for friends... he does nice work for a good price.. check him out