ok the new engine runs but?
#1
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ok the new engine runs but?
as above i finally got it running. but it is idling at 2k rpm and if i rev it up it keeps where i quit reving it at. what causes it to do that ive been threw the asm im thinking idle screw but could it be that or something else.
on another related note i am going to kind of use this thread to let some people on here know about a few engine swap things. ill i did was change out the fuel pump didnt get a new gas tank the exhaust off of a 12a does just bolt up. if anyone has questions about wiring ill help you out any way i can.
just let me know
thanks to everyone thats helped me out. i just need to know about this idle thing
on another related note i am going to kind of use this thread to let some people on here know about a few engine swap things. ill i did was change out the fuel pump didnt get a new gas tank the exhaust off of a 12a does just bolt up. if anyone has questions about wiring ill help you out any way i can.
just let me know
thanks to everyone thats helped me out. i just need to know about this idle thing
#2
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as above i finally got it running. but it is idling at 2k rpm and if i rev it up it keeps where i quit reving it at. what causes it to do that ive been threw the asm im thinking idle screw but could it be that or something else.
on another related note i am going to kind of use this thread to let some people on here know about a few engine swap things. ill i did was change out the fuel pump didnt get a new gas tank the exhaust off of a 12a does just bolt up. if anyone has questions about wiring ill help you out any way i can.
just let me know
thanks to everyone thats helped me out. i just need to know about this idle thing
on another related note i am going to kind of use this thread to let some people on here know about a few engine swap things. ill i did was change out the fuel pump didnt get a new gas tank the exhaust off of a 12a does just bolt up. if anyone has questions about wiring ill help you out any way i can.
just let me know
thanks to everyone thats helped me out. i just need to know about this idle thing
The exhaust is straightforward on these cars. You don't need to change the fuel tank to get it to run. However in corners without the slosh cup and under hard throttle you may incur problems. Also if you are using a smaller fuel hose. I hope you at least used FI fuel hose for the feed side to the injection system.
Check to make sure the vacuum hose that runs to the BACV is hooked up and also check for other vacuum leaks. Also the linkage may be binding or the cold start assist is out of adjustment.
Last edited by Rx-7Doctor; 07-21-07 at 09:48 PM.
#3
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ill go check all that in the morning. I'm just so glad and excited its running. i about jumped to the moon when it stayed running. and to everyone that has followed along with the build up it was the wiring harness. that is the most important part of doing an engine swap the harness has to be complete. has to be
#5
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If the idle adjustments are set correctly, then the most common cause of high idle on fresh work is a vacuum leak. These can be very hard to trace down, particularly with FI engines as there are so many more potential sources for leaks. The other difficulty is it's often multiple small leaks, which are harder to sus out than a single large one.
I knew I had a vacuum leak on my FC after I powder coated the intake.alt and a few other parts. After trying to find the source for nearly 2 months, I took the intake completely off and reassembled it again. Turned out I had 3 small leaks, one of which was a loose banjo bolt for the brake booster hard line, and they added up to a large leak and a 1500 rpm idle.
It doesn't take much to have a vacuum leak, a loose bolt/nut, a tiny bit of old gasket material left one of the intake mating surfaces, a slight gouge in those mating surfaces. The list can go on and on and the tiny ones can be very difficult to find, even with a stethoscope or a spray. As the old saying goes, 'Patience is a Virtue'.
Since you state that after reving the rpms remain where you let off of the throttle, I would start with checking the linkage for binding, lube it and make sure it's hooked up correctly and that there is a bit of slack in the accelerator cable.
I knew I had a vacuum leak on my FC after I powder coated the intake.alt and a few other parts. After trying to find the source for nearly 2 months, I took the intake completely off and reassembled it again. Turned out I had 3 small leaks, one of which was a loose banjo bolt for the brake booster hard line, and they added up to a large leak and a 1500 rpm idle.
It doesn't take much to have a vacuum leak, a loose bolt/nut, a tiny bit of old gasket material left one of the intake mating surfaces, a slight gouge in those mating surfaces. The list can go on and on and the tiny ones can be very difficult to find, even with a stethoscope or a spray. As the old saying goes, 'Patience is a Virtue'.
Since you state that after reving the rpms remain where you let off of the throttle, I would start with checking the linkage for binding, lube it and make sure it's hooked up correctly and that there is a bit of slack in the accelerator cable.
#6
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i tell you what though after this build you could ask me anything about these engines and i might actually know how to fix it. kind of makes me feel old
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