In about two weeks i am gonna tackle the task of rebuilding the stock nikki carb......it needs it,its leaking gas from the driver side of the carb.....anyways.....I've been looking around on different websites to see which rebuild kit would be the one to get....well i don't honestly know....i have a link here http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/saengine_maintenance.html is this RP Carb rebuild kit (45 bucks) a good kit?? I was also doing a search on the this forum and someone mentioned buying a rebuild kit from autozone (is this true....i thought i should stay a way from these guys when it came to major things like this??). Do you guys know of any other places that sell good kits? Also i know it will be a long process to rebuild...but is it honestly that difficult? Thanks in advance for you help guys..............

 

I rebuilt mine in Nov. / Dec. It took me about two weeks as my rx isnt my daily driver (and I have a three year-old that demands my attention).
Get a big clean table, plenty of ziplock bags, and take lots of digital photos.
There was a nice Nikki Carb manual / rebuild link somewhere on here...

 

I found the best carb manual link. Littlecat scanned this for our access. You'll need it!

www.rotaryrefs.net

 

sWEETNESS THANKYOU!!!! This will help me alot.......Though my question....where should i get the carb rebuild kit from?

 

Ok well I have rebuilt 3 nikki carbs and it takes about 2 hours if you take your time. Just make sure that you keep everything organized and you put everything back in the order the way you took it appart. If you need any help just let me know I will be happy to offer you my imput.

 

I buy mine from NAPA there the cheapist in the Boise Idaho area. I know that you dont want to buy them from the dealer rebuild kits are 300.00 its crazy I told them they were on crack

 

I bought mine from a local Mazda Dealer for about $85. BTW, that was my first carb rebuild that I'd ever done =)

 

awesome thanks guys!!!

 

I work for a Carb rebuild company. The carbs themselves usually aren't to bad, it is everything that is attached to them. If you want check out www.recarbco.com The website sucks, but there is nothing I can do about that seeing as I am moving on from the company, but they do good work and can sell you a rebuild kit if you want it. Good luck!

 

Below is the Nikki rebuilding tips page from Sterling's site. Sterling is the reigning Nikki guru at this site, as far as I can tell.

http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/ni...ding_tips.html

He recommends the rebuild kits made by Hygrade. If I recall correctly, I bought mine from Schucks Auto Supply as a GP Sorensen kit, one of the two listed here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectPa...Carburetor+Kit

When it arrived, it was boxed as a Hygrade 1401 Nikki rebuild kit for 1979-85. I used it to rebuild my '79 carb. As near as I can tell, GP Sorensen and Hygrade are brands owned by Standard Motor Products. To be certain, I'd go to your local auto parts store and cuff the pizza-faced monkey behind the counter across the back of the head and demand that he show you the carb rebuild kits available on his inventory computer. Then, look for anything that says Standard or Hygrade. Cuff again as needed to silence any unnecessary hooting.

This thread has basically the same information:

http://64.9.213.132/rx7club.com/foru...hlight=hygrade

-dave

 

Thanks again guys for all the help!

 

Another question...........when i take off the carb off the car....before taking it apart......i heard simple green is great to use to clean it....do i just dump it in a gallon of simple green....and for how long........or pour it in and around the carb?? I have heard that people use gasoline...is this true?? can i just dump the whole damn thing in gasoline...and if so for how long????

 

Dump it in a bucket of H2SO4. That'll do it for ya

Seriously though, I remember Carl telling me about one of the steps he does when doing rebuilds, he dumps the nikki in a bucket of... I can't remember what it was, but ask him.

 

Simple Green will cause white oxidation on the airhorn and main body if it's not thoroughly rinsed. In fact, I still saw some after thoroughly rinsing and drying. It's not major, but it does happen.

I wasn't overly impressed with Simple Green for this application. I believe I'd try carb cleaner or something similar if I had it to do over. I did mine in the house, so those weren't a good idea for me to try.

 

Dont use gasoline, veddy veddy dangerous. I use a carb dip I get from NAPA in a 5 gal tank, but its $. They also sell it in a 1 gal pail. Doing only one carb I dont think itll be worth it. Simple green should work, just takes longer and more scrubbing would be needed. Make sure you rinse it well.

 

There is a rebuild tips write up linked in the FAQ sticky.

 

I wouldn't use Simple Green because it oxidizes aluminum so quickly....

But when I rebuilt my OMP it was suggested I soak it in Mineral Spirits.

Now, I think the OMP and Carb are made from the same metal, so wouldn't it stand to reason that Mineral Spirits would work on the carb too? It's cheaper than Simple Green, and if you soak for a while, did wonders on my OMP and its years of oil buildup.

Jon

 

I got the Hygrade rebuild kit at a local CarQuest-authorized reseller. (Carquest.ca, input your postal code in the "find a location" thingy and it'll give you a place near you). Cost about $40 for the kit.

I'm going to try soaking it in "Dunk" dereaser from Canadian Tire and see what happens. The "Carb Dip" was $52/4L, and I needed 8L to fully immerse the carb in the small tupperware container I bought, so I decided not to use "Carb Dip". Simple Green works great on the inside of engine bay walls, but it oxidizes aluminum too quickly for my liking, so despite the fact that one of the best carb builders I know uses it, I decided not to. Especially considering I wanted the carb to soak in it. Mineral Spirits is cheap ($12/4L) and it worked great on my OMP, but I think that's mainly because it's an oil-based paint thinner and OMPs tend to be covered inside and out with old oil. Carburetors get covered with much stronger stuff than old oil, and so I figured I needed something stronger. "Dunk" degreaser is $20/4L (a good balance of price) and is Canadian Tire's generic automotive degreaser/cleaner. On the back of the jug it even says "for engine parts, carburetors...." so I figure it's safe to use for what I want to use it for.

I'll let you guys know how things turn out with Eric's carb, we're rebuilding it tomorrow.

Of course, I'd always rather have Sterling and Carl rebuild my carbs, even for just Stock rebuilds, but two things have me doing this one myself: 1. Eric doesn't have much money, and has even less time to wait for a rebuild, since we want him on the road for the may meet and 2. I've been wanting to learn more about the Nikki for a while, and this is the perfect oppurtunity to get my hands dirty so-to-speak.

But ya... My first "carb rebuild" (before I even found this forum) was a total disaster.... crappy rebuild kit, no cleaning products, no knowledge of what was what, or what could be removed to simplify the job, no copy of the carb manual PDF, no Sterling articles, and no real brains. It got dissasembled and never put back together. I *know* this one will go better

Jon