WEll this is it gonna pull the motor thursday and tear her down will post some pics of how it looks was gonna just slap the spare in but i would rather rebuild one. So got a few questions for the rotory gods.
1. Can i swap any 12 a housing if mine got munched?
2. Where can i get the apex seals for my 12a at a good price?
3. I was gonna get the gasket and o ring kit from Victoria british cause they are close and run out there and get it. Is 119 a good price for this?
4. I have ordered the porting plates can this be down easily while it is torn down?
5. For a fast fix could i just use one of the housings and rotors out of my spare if it is in good shape and slap it back to gether and be good for a while? Or should i just re do them both with new seal while i got it out?
6. Anything you would recommend doing while the motor is out?
7. I am doing this on a budget so any deals on anything i need would be great?
8. Anything i need to knwo about pulling this motor that i should be carefull of have pulled v and inlines but never a rotory so just wanna make sure?
9. How hard of job is this gonna be to tear down and rebuild? Could a couple of v8 boys a tape and book be good enough to rebuild this thing?
10. Thanks for all the help..

dan

 

Your gonna tell me no one on here ahs any ideas on any of these q's. I don't care fi you can't awnser them all but a few or one is great just as long as i know i do nto sound like a complete idiot.

 

Racing Beat sells apex seals and even rebuild kits that are supposed to be excellent. They have stock kits, and racing kits. www.racingbeat.com

 

1. Yes you can pretty much swap any housing as long as the ports look the same. (intake) cast iron plates that is. and all the aluminum housings swap too.
2. racing beat sells them. check these people out: http://www.hurley-engineering.ltd.uk/ I havent heardf anything bad about them and I think i am going to try them on my next engine. Also very reasonable with the exchange rate under 250 i think.
3. yes $120 is fine. that is average.
4.yes you can port it. It's way overated on the difficulty. Just use a rotary file. they work great and thats what I use. Dont let it hop out on you.
5. as far as a replacing the rotors out of the 12a's some of the rotors were balanced to each other. i am not for sure. Be somewhat careful. If worse come to worse and one is bad when you tear it down swap the whole rotating mass out of your spare. reason is because we know that is balanced. yuor rotors shaft etc.
6. Don't forget there is a small o ring that most people miss on the rear stationary gear. Also the main Oil control O ring do not come in that kit your going to buy. Call racing beat and get them. You HAVE to have these. these are why they start to smoke. They cost about $100 for 4 inner seals and 4 outers. atkins sells their own that are supposed to be better for the same price look them up.
7. Ya the reason why shops always replace Everything is because they dont want them coming back on warranty. Also they loos quality since they do so many. If you take your time and do it right then you can get by on some marginal parts. Get new apex springs and also get new rubber pieces for the corner seals. Get new corner seal springs too, they are under $10 for all 12. you should be able to do the whole thing for under $300 not counting what you will pay for the apex seals.
8. The pull is very streight forward. Be careful with the oil cooler lines they are very fragile. If your not careful you will ruin the oil cooler.
9. YOU CAN DO IT. They arent that hard. Once you have it appart make sure and soak the rotors for 48 hours in gas and then clean the oil control o ring surfaces with like a 400 grit sand paper. clean everything but the faces of the rotors real good. Sand down the plates too with that 400 and use some lubricant. use gasket remover works great. when you put it back together use vaseline on everything. to hold stuff in.
10. your welcome. keep us posted.

Peace out.
CJG

 

Cheapest rebuild kits I have ever seen are at http://www.revolutionrotary.com/

Full kit for $596 beats the **** outta almost $800

When I do rebuild, I always super glue the 2 apex pieces together. Its a pain in the *** to keep the little corners from bouncing out upon assembly

OOpppps did I mention to use Hylomar sealant and only Hylomar?

 

I refrained from posting on that other "rebuild" thread, but I really can't let two of them go.

WATCH what you are GETTING in "Rebuild Kits" !!

Revolution rotary just has a different definition of "rebuild kit" than we do.
When you "match" kits, part-for-part, our parts total for their kit comes out at $594.

They include things we list separately (gasket set, front and rear seals, etc).
We recommend (and include in our "rotor kits") significant other parts (like the metal side oil seals that are $203.28 for the engine, etc.).

Anyway, please just LOOK at what is in each "kit", don't just purchase it because of a lower price and the fact it is listed as a "rebuild kit".

 

Mazdatrix That is what i noticed on the kits. And i am limited on funds and need the car back quick so i am gonna just tear it down. but only gonna tear down the back housing and i am only gonna change out the housing and rotor if needed. All i need is the gaskets and oil seal for just doing the back housing any idea what i need and how much that should run. I know this is not the best way but right now i cannot afford to do it right i just need to get the car to run for another 30 days.

jr

 

mike thanks i already have invested in that.

rotortuner thanks man well if you read my post to mazda trix you will see what i am doing any more info is much apreciated.

 

I think you might want to reconsider your game plan of only taking it half apart. Once you undo the thru bolts and take the pressure off of all the water seals and then you re tighten them I am not sure if they will seal again. Worst case scenerio is that you do this then you put the engine in and run it and you are sucking coolent inside and getting collent in the oil, also possibly water to the outside. I think if you take the pressure off you need to do the whole thing. Just buy that $120 and that is all you will need to get you by for 30 days. You are going to need to buy those oil control o ring no matter what though. Mazdatrix do you aggree that those seal are probably going to leak?

CJG

 

ok well then while i have it apart i will have to put new gaskets and oil rings in the fornt and back. what should everything but the apex seals run me cause i just cannto aford the extra 250 right now for new apex seals i am tempted just to stick the spare mtoor in there and drive off. it has been seeting but i atf it and tunred it over and got good compression. so i think i may just stick that in tere and see how long it lasts.

 

Here is the good news junk yard motor has good compresion all the way around and well it would be easy just to stikc it in there the od in the car said it had only 64k on it. But the car has bad rust and has more problems. That is the one in the junk yard but the motor is goood and should be a great deal. I am juts gonna cheat stick it in there and then slowly build money and rebuild my spare.