Hi guys,

So while I wait for my parts from Japan I figured I would do the porting now, and then I read something abot some oil system modifications that the Rotary engine would benefit from, might as well do those right?

So I read alot of different threads with alot of different modifications. I understand that some of these engine produces alot more power than stock, however my first build engine would "only" be close to stock, being a bridge ported 12A, with RB exhaust and a modified nikki.

So can anyone share some light on what oil mods I "need" to do ? Below is a list of all the "mods" I found so far.1) port oil pump inlet smooth for flow
2) port oil pump outlet to give the hole a nice radius
3) notch pressure side of oil pump shaft "bearing" in front housing for more flow
4) tap galley plug to relocate oil pump to oil cooler outlet to eliminate bends
5) tap front bearing oil galley plug for loop line from oil filler adapter for more flow
6) port/polish front/rear stationary gear oil galleys
7) drill 2nd hole in rear of e-shaft for oil inlet off stat gear bearing
8) relieve stat gear and rotor bearing e-shaft holes for flow
9) window front/rear stat gear bearings in groove
10) port match interface to oil galley in front/rear stat gears
11) rotor oil jets to eliminate check ***** in e-shaft
12) rotor oil bypass eliminator in e-shaft
13) velocity stack oil pump inlet tube
14) polish e-shaft 1800 grit on lathe
15) polish/clearance bearings 1500 grit by "flapping"
16) baffle/anti-aeration plate on top of oil pan
17) FD rotor bearings
18) race oil pressure regulator
19) front mount oil cooler

I bet now half of these is necessary on a NA 12A like mine, but there maybe is some of them that are important ?

Thanks guys!

 

if its stock, you really don't need to do anything except make sure you're using good parts. these things don't really have oil system problems.
if you still want to do something, the FD oil pressure regulator N3A1-14-230 bumps pressure up to the 8 bar of the race cars.

the second one you might do is the velocity stack oil pickup. there was a study and they found that the big trouble with the oil system is just the pickup.
removing the screen and turning the tube into a venturi adds a large amount of flow to the whole system

 

^^
I agree.
I did all those mods when modifying and working on cars was my hobby and I had an insatiable appetite for learning and applying everything I could to my project car.

My hobby switched to racing and the bone stock 13B-REW I run now does very well.

One can easily introduce more problems with modifications such as cracking brittle cast iron side housings when drilling and tapping, any abrasive debris left by grinding or polishing will destroy your motor and modifying one piece can affect how another works (like my jacked up oil pressure migrating front cover o-rings out of place ).

If your hobby is tinkering on the car it is a lot of fun to do everything you can and learn from it because its all basically free besides your time.

But is it worth it?
What is yor time worth?

 

So I decided to do the oil pic, remove the screen and create some sort of Venturi 🤷🏼‍♂️ Looks okay I guess

I also tried to gently remove any sharp edges or obstacles on the suction side of the pump as well as radius the outlet into the galley a bit.

last thing would be no press the end of the regulator flat and I will leave it as that!

thanks for all your input 🙏 Really appreciated

 

Nice.

If you want more my final touch was-
I silver soldered a large guage steel ring around the edge of the flared funnel I made like you did to increase it from 180 degree velocity stack to ~320 degree velocity stack.

 

The suction side isn't particularly a problem - specially with the oldschool large pickup screen. My mods are always machine/enlarge the galleries to the stationary gear feeds (both front and rear) then reinstall stationary gears and redrill for a smooth transition -> remove the stationary gears and bevel the bearing side of what I just enlarged -> reinstall -> add oil distro/sandwich and a loop line to the front gallery.

It's overkill but pressure doesn't mean flow, which I'd like to maximize.

 

Well, I guess that's the chance with asking on the internet, always different opinions But thats good!

I would love to enlarge the oil galleys to the bearings, but thats need a bit of machine work to get through the long galleys, I don't know how i would do that in the garage BUT what I can and will do is to enlarge the rear gear inlet, the hole size in the Iron is around 2mm bigger than the hole in the stationary gear! That needs to be enlarged!

Do you care to elaborate on (Oil/distro sandwich and loop line? I don't really get the idea here?

 

It can be done manually with patience and a beefy (corded) drill. The loop line is pretty common, specially when converting to a solid upper dowel, however in my case I use it as redundancy to oil the front rotor. You essentially run from your oil filter pedestal/pre rear rotor oil gallery to either the the top of the front iron where the turbo oil feed boss would be, or, you run the line down to the side where you've already drilled out the gallery into the stationary gear.

 

What size are the Oil galleys opened up to, I might give it a go anyway. the rear one I already opened up stationary gear to same size as the Iron ? And would the solid dowels be needed for a half bridge NA 12A ?

 

Depedning on core shift and casting, 7/16 and 3/8, also depends on how the brass plugs were put in/how deep they're staked.

I also drill the pressure side of the oil pump, sometimes getting rid of the front cover outlet entirely as 4 90* bends before the oil is even out of the engine is just asking for cumulative pressure drop.

Anyway, this is a rabbit hole that can get very deep but at the very least chase the feeds to the main bearings.