My FB is leaking oil.
As the rest of the engine is dry, I reckon it is a matter of resealing the sump.


Therefore, following the instructions found elsewhere on this forum, I removed the sump, and started preparing it for a new gasket.
The outside will be sandblasted and painted black with two components paint (as I guess it was black when the car was new) but I have some doubts about the inside, which looks good except in one small area outlined in purple.





Therefore I have to choose. It is not easy...
1 - leave everything as it is. 95% of the sump is perfect. There is a small chip in the paint, my doubt is: is it going to deteriorate and the paint will enter the oil and cause damage to the engine?
2 - completely remove paint to the metal and leave with no paint. I don't thik rust will be an issue as everything is soaked in oil., but it's going to take some effort with paint remover.
3 - remove paint and repaint balck. However, even with two components paint I have no guarantee that a paint different from the original will withstand the infernal environment of an engine's sump...

Option 3 seems the least attractive. 2 is OK, but I'm tempted to choose option 1 - leave the inside as it is and only clean and paint the outside.

Any suggestions?

 

I would leave it. You could POR15 the spots. I power coat mine if there are issues after blasting.

Evan the factory inside coating fails.

 

The outside will be painted with 2 components black epoxy paint that I have used previously. POR15 is not available in Italy AFAIK
My concern is the chip in the picture, and small signs of further paint peeling, inside the sump
Oh well, probably I worry too much, the inside is just OK as it is and it's better left alone...
What does the inside of other owners' sump look like? better/worse...
Thanks

 

i would just leave it also

 

I recently opened up my FB's original engine.

I had drained the oil and coolant and had it sitting for a while in storage.

When I removed the pan, I found a large amount of the OEM paint/coating to have failed, almost looked like it had been stripped. It was peeling off in large pieces. Not sure if this was from sitting without being full of oil?

 

Interesting, but I have no idea.. Mine is not bad, and I will leave paint as it is.
However, the sump's lip is far from being flat.
I'm taking a 3D scan tonight, after which I will laser cut my own sump brace. I will have to better the sump's planarity though, before putting it back, brace it or not.

 

I've been switching over to studs when taking the oil pan off.

 

Studs have been ordered. It makes sense, as well as bracing. I will try to flatten out the lip of the pan as much as possible, for later grinding, possibly. As it is, it would inevitably leak, IMHO

 

Brace done! As planned I did a 3D scan of the sump and designed its outline:


Extruded in 3D

and finally laser cut. I've chosen INOX steel, more expensive but forever rust proof.



Final assembly with studs and lock nuts.



I've driven the car for one hour and it's now perfectly dry!

While I was at that, I replaced the gear oil with RedLine lightweight Shockproof (a.k.a. Smurf's blood). In my opinion it works really well.


While working on the car (other thread here https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...panel-1152686/) I cleaned up the motor and realized that the poor thing had TWO PARTIALLY LOOSE PLUGS!
Easy fix, but nevertheless, she never missed a beat or a start, cold or hot. I was not too happy with the performance though, as I expected more - it seemed underpowered...
So all things said and done, I took her out for a ride on an old mountain road which has been now bypassed by a set of galleries. I live where the Appennines mountains in Italy merge into the northern flat of Emila Romagna. A perfect driving spot.
It was an important route, it is large for our mountain roads standards and it's still is used for local traffic, so it's well paved.



Oh well, I can't say how much horsepower and torque, but the new and properly seated plugs certainly made a difference

 

Nice work.

 

I admire the fact you have the technology to scan and cut parts even if it is a bit excesive.

 

Chrome the oilpan will be the best option for longlifity.

 

Thanks for the suggestion @Rx7fb spirit r . I see you're from Germany, where do you get parts from in Germany?

 

Sadly chrome can still rust. But I agree !

 

I chromed that oilpan 1990 in France "Alsa Chrome". No rust
in 31 years and 200000 miles.😉The inner side of the oilpan is allways protected with oil angainst rust.😅

My brother was helping me with the complete chromed 12 A streetport swap. He is 57 years old now. Iam 59 years. I hope enough test time for good chromed parts.

 

It's great to see people taking the craft to a new level.

 

Difficult find parts in germany. Actually best adress will be "Wankelguru" or "ebay.de". But most parts i have to order in the USA. Atkins, mazdatrix, no more racing beat or UK before the brexit.

 

Thank for your answer. Unfortunately Wankelguru is not accepting orders anymore, ab Okt 1st.

 

Don’t paint leave as is . Why take chances?

 

I've left the inside as it was- only the outside was painted with 2 components matt black paint.
I must say that the brace, now that I have driven the car for one hour, works wonderfully. No sign of leakage whatsoever.