Anyone know the purpose of those two semi-clear somewhat yellow Lines that appear to move oil, to the carb? Mine's leaking and I put a cap on it it blew it off, Not sure what to do?

 

They are your OMP lines. They inject oil into the engine to lubricate. You need them.
Where does it leak? by the carb or on the front cover?

 

Dont cap it,FIX IT!!

And quick.
Those are the oil metering lines to the carb.They are the sole source of lubrication for the apex seals,which happen to be THE most important item inside you engine.If you cant get the lines replaced right away,at the very least clip the line at the leak and jumper the two ends together with a piece of rubber vacuum hose.There is little pressure in there,so you dotn have to go nuts,just some rubber hose and a couple zip ties or small clamps will do it.Oil must flow to the carb through both clear lines,or your engine will die a slow,painful death.

 

Time to start cracking the books on how a rotary works there champ.:-)

I give you a clue. There is no oil in the rotor housings but the seals still need lubrication.

 

What A Classic Reply Doc... Thanks Everyone I'm Off to correct the problem, Don't Bash me but it's been like that for a half a week.

 

Does Mazdatrix have these?

 

yep!

 

http://mazdatrix.com/b62.htm

 

I'm curious about your forum name. Does it have something to do with the series CSI? Or is it because you once owned a BMW 635CSI?

 

My First car was a BMW 633 Coupe Sport Lightwieght, So it Should be CSL, But that's a German thing... Good EYE!

 

Actually the L stands for Leather package.

 

What purpose would those block off plates serve? Hey Doc, Do me a favor and run me through a How it works yeah...

 

I beg to differ on the meaning of the letter "L" Doc, But... what about the 633 and 635 any meaning on those? They all Had leather

 

Are you refeering to the Oil metering pump block off plate? That is when you premix with your gas instead of using the OMP that the engine injects oil thru.

What exactly info wise do would you like?

 

Dont buy it from mazdatrix. Just grab a good fuel line as a coupler, that is to connect the broken plastic OMP line.

 

6 stands for 6 series 33= 3.3 ltr

35=3.5 ltr

5 years as a Service Manager for a German repair Facility.

 

You still putting that damn orange Hi-temp permatex on everything? I even see it on the exhaust manifold. I bet you have a permatex sandwich everyday.

 

prevent exhaust leaks my mang. Remember, Im using old school RE header is which quite older than me and the flanges are a bit warped.

 

I've got a set of oil lines I removed when I sent to premix. You're welcome to them for free + whatever shipping is. I can't imagine they are much. Just let me know.

 

Legokcen How Very thoughtful of you, but let me see if I can have The Doc Run me through it before I make you go through any trouble...

Doc, Looking for info on the OIL Metering pump it's functions and purpose, Seems to me that if they made block off plates for it, I can bypass it. Looking to see if and why I should go that route or leave it as is, Now Fixed, Thanks.

 

Nice backround Experience DOC

 

Thanks,

Learned a hell of alot of technical information there.

The OMP in a nut shell.

It basically a oil pump that is driven off of the distributor gear thru the front housing of the engine.

It does exactly as it states. Meters a specific amount of oil thru the oil injection lines to the carburetor and straight into the rotor housings to lube the apex seals.
Since the rotors have no direct contact with oil and you cannot have a constant metal to metal contact the OMP provides the necessary lubrication. The amount of oil is determined by the throttle position via the rod that runs to the pump.

Without lubrication and the amount of internal heat that the Rotary generates, you would have pre-mature engine failure. The apex seals are the heart of the compression on these engines.

There is a block off plate available because you can premix as others have stated. You do this by putting a predetermined amount of 2 cycle oil into the fuel tank when you gas up. There is a thread somewhere that tells you how much to put in per gallon of fuel.

I prefer the operation of the OMP because I don't like the hassle of having to carry 2 cycle oil with me and then have to put it in with the fuel. Using the premix way also is more expensive and you are generally putting in more oil than by the OMP system.

 

I run premix oil. I just stick it in a water bottle that holds 20oz.

Basic rule of thumb is that for every gallon of gas you put in, add one ounce of oil. I never have to put more than 10 gallons in my car at a time, so BEFORE I fill her up, I pour half a bottle of 2 stroke in, and fill 'er up. It does not have to be 2 stroke, it can be any motor oil. I prefer 2 stroke because that oil is ment to lubricate AND to burn more cleanly than regular motor oil, be it 10w-30/40/50/whatever. Also, when you premix, you have to remove the OMP and make/buy a blockoff plate. I made mine using the OMP gasket as a template. An aluminum sheet metal and some high temp silicone will do the trick, and use the OMP screws to screw it in nice and tight.

 

Excellent Thanks All Clear now, Oh and Too Lazy to premix so you can figure which way i'm opting out for.