Oil metering pump operation questions?
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Oil metering pump operation questions?
Anyone know the purpose of those two semi-clear somewhat yellow Lines that appear to move oil, to the carb? Mine's leaking and I put a cap on it it blew it off, Not sure what to do?
#3
FB+FC=F-ME
Dont cap it,FIX IT!!
And quick.
Those are the oil metering lines to the carb.They are the sole source of lubrication for the apex seals,which happen to be THE most important item inside you engine.If you cant get the lines replaced right away,at the very least clip the line at the leak and jumper the two ends together with a piece of rubber vacuum hose.There is little pressure in there,so you dotn have to go nuts,just some rubber hose and a couple zip ties or small clamps will do it.Oil must flow to the carb through both clear lines,or your engine will die a slow,painful death.
And quick.
Those are the oil metering lines to the carb.They are the sole source of lubrication for the apex seals,which happen to be THE most important item inside you engine.If you cant get the lines replaced right away,at the very least clip the line at the leak and jumper the two ends together with a piece of rubber vacuum hose.There is little pressure in there,so you dotn have to go nuts,just some rubber hose and a couple zip ties or small clamps will do it.Oil must flow to the carb through both clear lines,or your engine will die a slow,painful death.
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Legokcen How Very thoughtful of you, but let me see if I can have The Doc Run me through it before I make you go through any trouble...
Doc, Looking for info on the OIL Metering pump it's functions and purpose, Seems to me that if they made block off plates for it, I can bypass it. Looking to see if and why I should go that route or leave it as is, Now Fixed, Thanks.
Doc, Looking for info on the OIL Metering pump it's functions and purpose, Seems to me that if they made block off plates for it, I can bypass it. Looking to see if and why I should go that route or leave it as is, Now Fixed, Thanks.
#22
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Thanks,
Learned a hell of alot of technical information there.
The OMP in a nut shell.
It basically a oil pump that is driven off of the distributor gear thru the front housing of the engine.
It does exactly as it states. Meters a specific amount of oil thru the oil injection lines to the carburetor and straight into the rotor housings to lube the apex seals.
Since the rotors have no direct contact with oil and you cannot have a constant metal to metal contact the OMP provides the necessary lubrication. The amount of oil is determined by the throttle position via the rod that runs to the pump.
Without lubrication and the amount of internal heat that the Rotary generates, you would have pre-mature engine failure. The apex seals are the heart of the compression on these engines.
There is a block off plate available because you can premix as others have stated. You do this by putting a predetermined amount of 2 cycle oil into the fuel tank when you gas up. There is a thread somewhere that tells you how much to put in per gallon of fuel.
I prefer the operation of the OMP because I don't like the hassle of having to carry 2 cycle oil with me and then have to put it in with the fuel. Using the premix way also is more expensive and you are generally putting in more oil than by the OMP system.
Learned a hell of alot of technical information there.
The OMP in a nut shell.
It basically a oil pump that is driven off of the distributor gear thru the front housing of the engine.
It does exactly as it states. Meters a specific amount of oil thru the oil injection lines to the carburetor and straight into the rotor housings to lube the apex seals.
Since the rotors have no direct contact with oil and you cannot have a constant metal to metal contact the OMP provides the necessary lubrication. The amount of oil is determined by the throttle position via the rod that runs to the pump.
Without lubrication and the amount of internal heat that the Rotary generates, you would have pre-mature engine failure. The apex seals are the heart of the compression on these engines.
There is a block off plate available because you can premix as others have stated. You do this by putting a predetermined amount of 2 cycle oil into the fuel tank when you gas up. There is a thread somewhere that tells you how much to put in per gallon of fuel.
I prefer the operation of the OMP because I don't like the hassle of having to carry 2 cycle oil with me and then have to put it in with the fuel. Using the premix way also is more expensive and you are generally putting in more oil than by the OMP system.
#23
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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I run premix oil. I just stick it in a water bottle that holds 20oz.
Basic rule of thumb is that for every gallon of gas you put in, add one ounce of oil. I never have to put more than 10 gallons in my car at a time, so BEFORE I fill her up, I pour half a bottle of 2 stroke in, and fill 'er up. It does not have to be 2 stroke, it can be any motor oil. I prefer 2 stroke because that oil is ment to lubricate AND to burn more cleanly than regular motor oil, be it 10w-30/40/50/whatever. Also, when you premix, you have to remove the OMP and make/buy a blockoff plate. I made mine using the OMP gasket as a template. An aluminum sheet metal and some high temp silicone will do the trick, and use the OMP screws to screw it in nice and tight.
Basic rule of thumb is that for every gallon of gas you put in, add one ounce of oil. I never have to put more than 10 gallons in my car at a time, so BEFORE I fill her up, I pour half a bottle of 2 stroke in, and fill 'er up. It does not have to be 2 stroke, it can be any motor oil. I prefer 2 stroke because that oil is ment to lubricate AND to burn more cleanly than regular motor oil, be it 10w-30/40/50/whatever. Also, when you premix, you have to remove the OMP and make/buy a blockoff plate. I made mine using the OMP gasket as a template. An aluminum sheet metal and some high temp silicone will do the trick, and use the OMP screws to screw it in nice and tight.
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