dj55b

iTrader: (2)

What would you guys recommend for oil cooler to fit in my 83 gsl. Now i believe stock it comes i with was called water to oil cooler. Is it a challenge to get that going just to normal oil cooler that can be mounted infront of the radiator?


Also, I still need to know what is what on the gas tank( ie, which one's out, air vent and so on. Thanks

Hades12

Only the SE's had the cooler infront of the Rad, the 79 - 82 had the short rad with the cooler under it.

So you would need
A stock cooler
short Rad
Lines
filter pedistal

to do the swap over.

BMS2004

not entirely hades. I plan on running the "beehive" and the front mount oil cooler. shouldn't ever think about running warm that way. Yes its gonna be overkill but whatever. DJ. basically what i'm doing is replacing the hard line from front cover to rear plate with this setup. front cover hose to oil cooler, cooler hose to rear plate. basically its a oil cooler inline with front cover and beehive. With some of the stories i've heard about how hard beehives from 85 can be to get off i'm opting for this option and its still functioning properly right now, i just want added safety. with my way all you need is hoses and oil cooler.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

thats what i was kinda thinking but i'm not sure extacly how to do it. would you be able to send some pics sometime to show me how you're doing yours?

BMS2004

its not done yet or even started for that matter. to understand what i mean just go look at your car. if you look towards the bottom on the front cover you will see a metal hose that exits from the front cover and enters in the rear end plate. at the rear ti shoudl actually connect with a banjo bolt. what i will need to do is buy adapters to thread into fron cover and rear plate. then you will have to get hoses made at your local hydraulics service place. they will then get ya hoses with correct end on them. like i said you just replace the metal line from front cover to end plate with hose that runs from front cover to oil cooler and then connect the other line from oil cooler to rear end plate.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I will try to see what you mean tonight. I'll look under the hood then. Hopefully the rain would stop by then

BMS2004

yea it should make sense one you see what i'm talking about. if not just pm me and i'll see what i can do.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

alright ... will do

Hades12

I really hate the look of the beehive, So I would not do that, Plus I want to add a oil temp and pressure guage, using the sandwitch block or the Fc3s.org filter pedistal.

If you want to keep the beehive then why not just use almost any aftermarkt cooler, make a mount and most of them come with a fan allready mounted. Looks like it would be easy to do.

cdrad51

Yeah plus the beehive tends to leak more than the front mounted cooler, IMO. I got rid of it early this year.

nick1

the gsl-se im buying (with 2nd gen motor) has a huge oil cooler mounted up in front of the radiator. the car was originally a california car, but im bringing it to niagra falls, canada.

since our weather up here is much colder, should i be at all worried that the oil may be TOO COOL?...is it possible to run it too cool and would this cause any problems?

nick

cdrad51

Nah, just use the proper viscosity for your weather temp and you'll be fine.

Hades12

The cooler has a T-stat in it it bypass the cooler when the oil is to cold.

Aviator 902S

Yes, it is possible to run TOO COLD. The guy lives in Ontario, so his winters are cold--- typical overnight lows down to below zeroF, and even as low as -40F on occasion.

Over the summer I got rid of my stock beehive set-up in favor of the under-rad air-to-oil cooler system from an '82. Summer temps levelled off at about 1/3rd of the guage (down from just under 1/2 with the beehive), but now that it's winter and overnight lows are around zero Farenheit it takes much longer to warm up and barely tops out at slightly more than 1/4.

What this means is that a beehive AND an under-rad cooler will cool things down way too much in winter--- which is almost as bad as overheating. Don't do it. The under-rad system provides adequate cooling even on those humid 90F+ days in July.

The beehive is a bitch to get off, but not impossible. You'll need a 12mm box end wrench (a socket won't fit) to get the three nuts holding it on off. Do it from up top and reaching under by feel. I tried to get them off from under the car to no avail.

BMS2004

so for a car that will be driven only in summer do you think my setup would be overkill or likely be fine. the way i see it, the cooler the oil is the less work the beehive has to do which correates to less work the rad has to do. besides running tool cold is what the thermostats are for....hell i dunno.

edit: i plan on autoxing the car and some track days so i figure the extra can't hurt. any other thoughts?

Aviator 902S

If you don't plan to run it in winter there shouldn't be a problem using both if that's possible. But the under-rad set-up all by itself would provide all the oil cooling you'll ever need. The racing community has run that set-up since forever, and in all temps and seasons with no problems.

Xavier8

I am kindof confused: I would think that you should actually keep the oil cooler without the beehive at all. I say this because the beehive water to oil forces the oil to be at least the temperature of the water, and no less. This would be beneficial in cold climates because the beehive would heat up the oil, but in hot climates it could actually be putting more heat into the oil. I use the beehive, and notice my oil gets plenty dark pretty quickly, which probably means it is overheating. I could use a front mount.