oil change
#1
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oil change
I am new to owning a first gen - I have an 81 with a 12a - I would like to change the oil but not sure what to buy. All my friends own 2nd or 3rd gens we arent sure if we should use the same oil. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
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Check out Felix's Own General Rotary Car FAQ it's a great site and should answer a lot of your questions
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
I run Castrol GTX 20W-50 and change it every 3k miles with a new oil filter.
FYI if you did not know, a rotary engine injects a small amount for engine oil into the carburetor while it running. This keeps you from having to pre-mix your oil with your fuel. So to use a quart of oil every 1000 to 1500 miles is expected. Check your oil level at each fill up.
John
FYI if you did not know, a rotary engine injects a small amount for engine oil into the carburetor while it running. This keeps you from having to pre-mix your oil with your fuel. So to use a quart of oil every 1000 to 1500 miles is expected. Check your oil level at each fill up.
John
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If it's naturally aspirated use 20w-50 in the warmer climates and 10w-30 in the cooler areas or months. Turbo motors use 5w-30 year round. DO NOT USE ANY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL OR SYNTHETIC BLEND! Rotaries premix a measured amount of your engines oil into the intake with what's called an OMP (oil metering pump). The reason why you can't use synthetic is because synthetic won't burn off, if at all, like natural oil and can harm the motor. The life of the apex seals on each rotor depend on this oil for lubrication. They cannot get oiled up from the oil pan. Without apex seals your motor will have almost no compression.
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#11
Registered Piston Eater
what's the best to run on a setup like mine, GTX 20w50 or 10w30?
btw why 5w-30 for turbo motors? does the turbo need a lighter oil? if so, why?
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Originally posted by AdrenalifeRX7
DO NOT USE ANY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL OR SYNTHETIC BLEND! Rotaries premix a measured amount of your engines oil into the intake with what's called an OMP (oil metering pump). The reason why you can't use synthetic is because synthetic won't burn off, if at all, like natural oil and can harm the motor. The life of the apex seals on each rotor depend on this oil for lubrication. They cannot get oiled up from the oil pan.
DO NOT USE ANY FULL SYNTHETIC OIL OR SYNTHETIC BLEND! Rotaries premix a measured amount of your engines oil into the intake with what's called an OMP (oil metering pump). The reason why you can't use synthetic is because synthetic won't burn off, if at all, like natural oil and can harm the motor. The life of the apex seals on each rotor depend on this oil for lubrication. They cannot get oiled up from the oil pan.
#13
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<<<sigh>>> And the Urban Myth continues to be disseminated as truth...there is no hard data to support the synthetic oil lie and no one on this Forum site or Racing beat has seen an engine failure due to the coked carbon apex seal syndrome that is the core of this new religious belief.
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i have actually run synthetic in my car. honestly it ran pretty damn smooth. it was this site that made me stop. the guy that owned it before me ran it too. i told him about the "myth" of synthetics being bad and he was like WTF??? since then i have always used castrol gtx 20w-50. oh well.
#16
Originally posted by mar3
<<<sigh>>> And the Urban Myth continues to be disseminated as truth...there is no hard data to support the synthetic oil lie and no one on this Forum site or Racing beat has seen an engine failure due to the coked carbon apex seal syndrome that is the core of this new religious belief. Religious because it has to be accepted on Faith...
<<<sigh>>> And the Urban Myth continues to be disseminated as truth...there is no hard data to support the synthetic oil lie and no one on this Forum site or Racing beat has seen an engine failure due to the coked carbon apex seal syndrome that is the core of this new religious belief. Religious because it has to be accepted on Faith...
#18
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don't know why a rotary should run something that heavy unless its down south..
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This is just an educated guess, but that one little corner where the exhaust is beeing dumped non-stop is a hot point. The higher viscosity means the oil won't breakdown in that area of the engine if things should get out of hand. Coolant loss, turbos, and the sweet juice come to mind. That would be the 50 part of 20W-50...
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Originally posted by inittab
Check out Felix's Own General Rotary Car FAQ it's a great site and should answer a lot of your questions
Check out Felix's Own General Rotary Car FAQ it's a great site and should answer a lot of your questions
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Originally posted by FB II
nawwwwwwz, WOO WOOOOO!
nawwwwwwz, WOO WOOOOO!
#24
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there is no hard data to support the synthetic oil lie
Mazda recommended *against* it. That's good enough for me.
I have a question though, I realize most of you have said that 10w30 in the winter is sufficient, but this winter I will have to drive my 85 GS instead of my Sentra (long story).
Thing is, where I live it can get to -40 (rarely) wth the average being around -20F.
Anyone have any experience at this temperature? Should I go with an even lighter oil?
#25
Yea i live in minnesota and i was also wondering what oil i should be running once winter comes round. Also i have an 85 gls-se and i was wondering how these things run in the winter (non carbureted).