I finished putting in my new clutch and RB exhaust. Put on the upper and lower intakes, put on all the hoses again. Got in adn tried to start her. Nothin. Got spark, plugs are wet. My dad got it started by holdin the pedal to the floor. When it started it screamed, somethign was making a loud screaming noise from near the front of the engine. Guessing its a lose belt, but any of you ahve any other ideas. Also anyone kno why she wont start wihtout the gas beeing floored?

 

if something is squealing in the front, it is likely a belt.

To start it, do you have to hold the accelerator down or just kick it in once? Once would just be opening the chokes (carbied) but I don't know why you'd have to hold it down.

 

Well we held it down again to get it started, then revver her to about 6 grand and held it for like 2 mins, lotsa smoke, kinda blueish white, now she starts right up. But ive come across another problem. Myt cars a -SE btw. Once started she revs to like 2500 rpm, then if i dont catch the gas and keep her there or higher she stalls. If it reaches anyhting less than 2500 rpm it just acts like the key got turned of and shuts down, i can save it and keep it runnin if i tap the gas thou. Any ideas?

 

vacuum leak?

 

check for a leak between the air flow meter and the throttle body.

 

while on the subject would that be the same for my 85 GSL? carb stock setup when warm it often stalls if i dont keep the pedal pressed and revs to about 1K

 

Air flow meter, is that on the lower intake, cause if it is, its not on anymore. I got a rb header and they said lets take this off and this off and this off so i did what they said.

 

wow, im stupid. I didnt block off the 2 inlets for the backpressure pickup tubes that i cant hook up yet. But soon. Imma block em off and see if that fixes it

 

There you go. get that fixed and see how she runs :-D

 

the air flow meter is what the airbox is attached to.

 

Ok ill have to check that over since my other idea didnt fix anythign at all.

 

it will take a big vac leak to make it die like that, it's probably the afm hose loose or a leak between the upper and lower intakes.

 

well, would not having the top of my air box on mess with anything, its just sitting there because i havnt bolted it down and it wouldnt latch. ive got my filter in ,the top just isnt latched down. if its a leak on the intake itl prolly get fixeld when itake my intake back off tomorrow. Hooked up my coolant lines wrong.

 

no

 

Yeah, you just flooded the hell out of your motor. All rotarys look like Mt. St. hellens went off when they get deflooded. Even the rx-8.

 

hmm i guess ill justr follow all my vac lines tomorow. Only thing i can think off since ive check all the problem spots. I might wanna recheck my ac/cv blockoff plate thing that i got with my header.

 

Make sure the AFM flap is closing fully. If it's sticking open a bit you'll get exactly the symptoms you're seeing. Had it happen to me... Easiest way to unstick it is to stick your hand in and tap the flap a few times to make sure it's closing and not stuck.

Good luck....

 

BTW, you may already know this, but the ACV block-off plate is not a 'required' part to be added, i.e., you can leave your stock ACV in place and operational as long as you got the Racing Beat presilencer that includes the '6'-port actuating tube. This is connected to the ACV via a 1/4" pipe that has the bleed for your '6'-ports, and would normally go to the catalytic converter that you replaced with the presilencer.

Mine is in place and operational and runs just great. I have the Mazdatrix modified RB header and presilencer that includes '6'-port actuating tubing.

My bet is that your ACV is venting intake air to the outside, which is like a huge vacuum leak - if you insist (or must) use the ACV blocking plate, you MUST use some RTV or other gasket material to ensure that you don't have any vacuum leaks - this is critical. Good luck, and report back,

 

did you use old gaskets or did you get new ones?