woodonastick

iTrader: (1)

i have a odessey pc680 that dies in about 24hours. i searched online and people have had it to last about 4 days without driving it.

i dont kno anything abou telectrical work so please help me. i did a search about finding parasites, checking terminals, checking belts. my battery cables are looking kinda out of whack, but would that cause the battery to die in 24hours? i have an s5 alt, 2nd gen coil upgrade and cant find any electrical that would be on when the keys out..besides the clock.

any help would be appreciated.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

The way to find out what the draw is from is perform a parasitic draw test. You hook up a digital voltage ohm meter (DVOM) up in parallel with the + batt terminal and the + wire to test the amount of current being drawn from the battery. Than you can start pulling fuses. Once the draw drops you know that it is something going through that fuse that is causing the draw. Commonily I have found the problem to be storage lights not shutting off...

But the best way to find the problem is to take your time and pull one fuse at a time waiting for the current to drop.

Your best bet may be to take your car to a dealership, get them to test the output of your alternater, load test your battery and check for a parasitic draw. I also like to do things myself, but unless you have a DVOM, a battery load tester, and a inductive pickup alternator output tester, it may be your best bet...

steve84GS TII

If your alternator isnt hooked up right,itll suck your battery down when the car is off.Went though that with my faulty 1-wire racing alternator on the ol' GLC.

I use the same method to track parasitic loss,but I just use a small wedge bulb,like in the instrument cluster.Unhook the + cable from the battery,then hook one end of the bulb to the battery + and the other to the + cable.....then just watch for the light to turn off and on as I pull fuses.

hanman

Steve is correct.
Start with the bulb method, I use a testing probe. Looks like a screwdriver with a icepick instead of the blade end. It has a bulb in the center. Disconnect the negative terminal, hook the test light in between the battery neg terminal and the neg. cable. If it lights the bulb you have more than a 4a drain. Pull fuses until the light goes out. That is the bad circuit. If it doesn't light the test light, use the amp setting on a multi meter. It measures 10a an under. This will find a smaller parasitic loss. The reason for the test bulb first, is the you will blow the multi meter if the drain is over 10a. So look for the big drain first. And the multi meter will find the drain if it is under 4a.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I would start with the S5 alt. They wire in different than the S4 and earlier ones and are frequently a cause of the problem you are having.