85rotarypower

So, I have been doing a few things on my car the last few days with wiring. I wired up an aftermarket tach this afternoon, and while trying to start the car, the starter actually stayed going even after the key was in the off possition. I had to unhook the battery to get it to stop. Needless to say the car never did start, but now the starter is engaged and won't disengage. I think the solenoid is just sticking, but I'm not sure. Could it be a problem with the ignition switch?

Also, I hooked the tach up to the coil the stock tach is not on (I think its the leading but not totally sure), but I get a VERY irratic signal from it. When the car runs, it misses sometimes, but not as often as the tach misses, so to speak. I'm worried that my ignitor is going out. It might also be the distributor cap, since it needs a new one real bad. Anyway, what do you guys/gals think?

LongDuck

Unless I'm mistaken, Tach signal is fed from the Trailing ignition, which could explain part of the problem. Try switching the spade connector over to the other coil (should be on the FRONT coil) and see if that changes anything.

Also, the solenoid is separate from the starter and can be replaced independently, IIRC. Could be that your solenoid has gotten stuck in the 'on' position, and is just spinning with the flywheel - needless to say, this will kill your starter in short order if you don't get it fixed.

Better to have the solenoid hard to 'click' to on, than stuck in the 'on' mode. Also, keep in mind that it takes current to keep a solenoid stuck to 'on'. Did you move any of your main power leads going to the starter and solenoid? HTH,

85rotarypower

I've got the battery unhooked. But I deffinately think its the solenoid. I will order a new one I guess.

As for the tach signal, I had both the stock tach and an aftermarket one that I had for the car hooked up. The stock was hooked up to the proper coil (front one, I believe thats the trailing coil, correct?), and my aftermarket tach hooked to leading. So my leading coil was giving the tach the signal, and it was just cutting out every once in a while. But when it cut out, it didn't seem to go with the engine. When the carb was working fine (very bad carb problems right now), the engine would run without missing. When the engine started to flood out (the problem I have with the carb is its forcing fuel out the jets and flooding out the engine), it would miss like crazy, but the tach was acting up either way. I'm just a little confused with it. I hooked the aftermarket tach to the trailing coil and will tell you what happens when I get my starter working properly again.

Aviator 902S

You may want to compare the price of a rebuilt starter (which would include the solenoid) to the price Mazda is asking for a new solenoid by itself. It may be cheaper to go with the rebuilt starter/ solenoid assembly. At least that's what I discovered 10 years ago when I was in the same situation with my '82.

85rotarypower

I checked the price on the solenoid and a rebuilt starter. The rebuild is $115 plus a core charge of $40 I think. The solenoid is a different storey though. Depending on when my car was assembled, it could have a $40 solenoid or an $80 solenoid. I think the split is in November of 81. Problem is that I have no way of checking when my car was assembled. The car was repainted at some point and the f*ckers painted over the door sticker which says the manufacture date (good paint job, but didn't think to mask off the sticker). So, I think I will have to do a little comparing, unless there is another sticker on the car that it says the manufacture date. Either way the solenoid is cheaper and I know my starter motor is good. I am also 99% certain that the solenoid is the answer to my problems.

sweetege

yea definetely get a rebuilt starter from autozone or advance because they're cheap with a core trade in and they have a warranty. For example: I stripped the threads with a impact wrench (never put a started on with 425pound feet of torque) and then took it back and they gave me another one for free.

sweetege

my bad posted at the same toime yea i could have sworn it was cheaper at autozone for the starter. Where is that at?

85rotarypower

I'm in Canada. I don't know of any advance auto or autozone near me (are they even in canada?). I got the quote from Canadian Tire. It could be cheaper elseware, but I will see.

****, posted at the same time as you again!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Check NAPA Autoparts. They often have prices lower than CT... though CT is good for brakes...

Remember, trust CT's parts, but not their people...

Jon

85rotarypower

I don't trust the CT people. I know much more than them. I would go to NAPA, but I have found them to be a little expensive too. I picked up a new distributor cap and rotor today from Raymac. Great place to get parts. The people there know what they are talking about, and the prices can't be beat. The cap and rotor came to $60 total. Another deal I came across is with a rear brake rotor (disk rear brakes on my car). CT quoted me for $80. I got it from Raymac for $27 plus tax!!! I trust NAPA, but I will never go anywere else for car parts. They sell quality stuff. The mechanic I co-op for gets ALL his parts through them.