I have searched and can’t seem to find a solution. The *** end of my car is all over the place I was thinking the LSD would help. However, I really don’t want to buy new rims, tires and do a full rear end swap. Is there anyway I could add LSD any maybe a higher gear to my current setup?
Thanks

 

the gsl LSD bolts in, ya doo the whole rear end swap yeah get disc brakes as well, not to sure about the gear ratio though. Sorry.

 

Thanks. I just found the yearly model differences page ( http://www.rx7.org/public/1st-gen.html ) and list LSD standard on all GSL's after '81. I obviously have a GS. So I just need the LSD unit aka pumpkin? and larger or higher geared pinion, possibly from a different car ie KIA

 

My LSD is toast and after talking with a person that races and drifts I am going to take my worn lsd and weld it. I will take pics of the process and post the results.
He uses his as a DD with no problems......we'll see.

For your issue, replace the whole rearend, takes about a hour with air tools. Don't tighten the trailing links till you got the wheels on the ground, level ground.

 

Dude don't weld your LSD, weld an open diff!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=welded+diff

 

All GSLs have the limited slip and 110mm bolt pattern.

It will reduce stability a fair bit, since you won't get just one tire spinning, and it makes low speed turns a pain in the butt. And just try maneuvering the car in the snow on any kind of slope... the car will just crab. Oftentimes even on level ground.

 

"It will reduce stability a fair bit, since you won't get just one tire spinning, and it makes low speed turns a pain in the butt."

So my car will spin/slide more in low speed corners but will be more stable during high speed corners? Also what is low speed? Parking lot doughnuts or 30mph corner.
Thanks

 

You lose stability everywhere.

Basically a limited slip is an anti-differential. If it's not worn out, it significantly restricts the rear tires from turning relative to each other and under power the two are locked together. This poses a problem in handling, since under power the car tends to want to understeer at low cornering loads, but oversteer under high loads, unless you throw the car around so that you *know* it's going to be oversteering...

The only real benefit is that you know what you're going to get... an open diff might spin only one tire and leave you with some lateral stability, or it might spin both. But the rear end will always be fighting the front end so things can be somewhat squirrely.

People go all googly over Torsen type units because they do *not* work this way. They are not limited slip units, but *torque biasing* units... they always remain "open", but they have the ability to bias torque to the wheel with the most traction, as opposed to the fixed 1:1 ratio that spider gear type differentials have. This has great handling benefits everywhere, at the expense of elevated gear oil temperatures from all of the internal friction.

 

I don't care, I rather have a LSD disc rear then the standard diff drum for the 12a model. Once you are used to the way it handles, its more fun to drive. In a straight start from a stop, you can get more traction instead of the one wheel wonder crap. True, it does over steer some, but understeer is also not good. You can remedy this some with a front strut brace, better front sway bar, or some people remove their rear sway bar for some reason too.

 

i have the lsd in a drum rear, the rear brakes dont do much anyway. easier than swaping the whole axle.

 

According to Lt. Dan, the drum rear end is lighter too.

I'm gonna have to weigh em... I have a GS, GSL, and GSL-SE suspension laying about. Though I don't own the GS just yet. It is parked in my driveway.

 

I never had a problem drag-racing with an open diff. The only trick was making sure to stop the burnout if one tire grabbed mid-burn.

The strut brace keeps the car from flexing itself apart. Removing the rear bar is an effort to get more rear traction coming out of corners, and is almost a requirement on cars with sub-normal ride height (that is to say, all of them) because of the way the roll center/center of gravity relationship goes FUBAR with ride height change.

Ever notice that all popular suspension alterations are geared towards making the car understeer? Hmm...

 

so what do you need off the gsl when taking the lsd off
just the axel with whats attached to it
brake lines??
any miscleanoues parts

 

If you want the disc brakes, you need the entire diff and brake cables. If you are keeping the drum brakes, you just need the pumpkin/3rd member.

 

brake cables??
hand brake cable

 

Yes

 

what should one expect to pay for a gsl lsd(whole differentual)

theres one down the road i might rip out what else does a gsl have mechcanicaly wise that my 83 s wont

 

Well it needs to be an '81-83 to work with your existing rearend. If it's '81 or '82 you need the driveshaft too. (Easier than screwing around replacing the flange)

The GSL probably will have power windows and might have leather interior.

Make sure that it is in fast a limited slip. A good number of people complained about chattering around low speed corners when the cars were new. This chattering was the tires hopping and skipping across the pavement due to the differential. The dealership repair was to remove the limited slip and put an open diff in there. Therefore, not all GSLs have limited slip!

 

"Make sure that it is in fast a limited slip"
whats meant by this??

how can i identatiy its a lsd any number makings etc and where?

i noticed the drivesharft inside the car so maybe some one wanted it for a open diff and it diddnt fit just a thought

any idea what to expect for price

i noticed the leather seats soo comtable he wanted 100bucks for both is that a okay price

 

Fact. Typographical error.

An open diff has only two spider gears and one crossshaft, and you can easily reach your finger inside and play with the gears. The limited slip units, besides having a double (X-shaped) cross-shaft and four spider gears, is a big fat "canister" that you can't get your fingers into.

Of course you can only see this once you have the differential out of the rearend housing.

{quote]any idea what to expect for price{/quote]

Price of used parts is entirely up to how much you're willing to spend and how much the seller is willing to sell. A local junkyard wanted $500 for the rear axle assembly and the front struts from an -SE that I saw there. Probably trashed all to hell and back, too, given the condition of the rest of the car.

On the other hand some people always seem to find stuff for pocket change.

 

cheers dude much apreciated hopefully i can get it for chumpchange which i doubt cause he charged me 35 for a 2gen leading coil and 35 for a taurs fan so maybe have to look else where hmmmm
if i did get it is there parts i should replace bearings packed grease etc