Not getting any fire...need help
Still wont fire? I have a feeling that your key cylinder is causing this problem. For example, in another FB, wired it up as usual, no fire.
Ran wires directly to battery to both trailing and leading coil's + terminals, starts and runs fine.
Went back to stock, no fire.
Used a test light while someone is behind the wheel and turning the key on/off.
Bam...found the problem so I ended up by-passing the key using a switch to trigger a relay.
Ran wires directly to battery to both trailing and leading coil's + terminals, starts and runs fine.
Went back to stock, no fire.
Used a test light while someone is behind the wheel and turning the key on/off.
Bam...found the problem so I ended up by-passing the key using a switch to trigger a relay.
Basically, like eveyone said, we need to check step-by-step. The ignition system is pretty much self-contained and there isn't much to check. First, do the following:
- turn key to 'ON'
- check voltage at coil - and coil + (both should read ~12v)
- check the voltage at each terminal for both ignitor connectors (connector can be unplugged) these should read ~12v as well.
- the silver looking cylinder on the distributor is the condensor. Has a black wire with either a white or yellow stripe depending on year/model. This is the same wire that connects to coil +. The condensor won't cause lack of spark.
Once this is tested, we know if you have poiwer to everything. Crank over with the coil high tension wire near the metal of the car. The sparks should be obvious. If there is no spark on either coil, either:
- both ignitors are bad
- the connectors for the ignitors are not making contact (check this out, the terminals can get bent on the ignitor. The plug will go on and you think it is connected, but is not making electrical contact)
The coils work like this:
-coil + always has 12v
- coil - floats to ~12v normally
- J-109 pulls the coil - to ground. Current flows and the coil charges
- the J-109 releases causing the coil to discharge
Good luck. Let us know what you come up with.
- turn key to 'ON'
- check voltage at coil - and coil + (both should read ~12v)
- check the voltage at each terminal for both ignitor connectors (connector can be unplugged) these should read ~12v as well.
- the silver looking cylinder on the distributor is the condensor. Has a black wire with either a white or yellow stripe depending on year/model. This is the same wire that connects to coil +. The condensor won't cause lack of spark.
Once this is tested, we know if you have poiwer to everything. Crank over with the coil high tension wire near the metal of the car. The sparks should be obvious. If there is no spark on either coil, either:
- both ignitors are bad
- the connectors for the ignitors are not making contact (check this out, the terminals can get bent on the ignitor. The plug will go on and you think it is connected, but is not making electrical contact)
The coils work like this:
-coil + always has 12v
- coil - floats to ~12v normally
- J-109 pulls the coil - to ground. Current flows and the coil charges
- the J-109 releases causing the coil to discharge
Good luck. Let us know what you come up with.
Originally Posted by wackyracer
Still wont fire? I have a feeling that your key cylinder is causing this problem. For example, in another FB, wired it up as usual, no fire.
Ran wires directly to battery to both trailing and leading coil's + terminals, starts and runs fine.
Went back to stock, no fire.
Used a test light while someone is behind the wheel and turning the key on/off.
Bam...found the problem so I ended up by-passing the key using a switch to trigger a relay.
Ran wires directly to battery to both trailing and leading coil's + terminals, starts and runs fine.
Went back to stock, no fire.
Used a test light while someone is behind the wheel and turning the key on/off.
Bam...found the problem so I ended up by-passing the key using a switch to trigger a relay.
I was referring to ignition shutting off when at "RUN" position.
Thread Starter
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Essex, MD
Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Basically, like eveyone said, we need to check step-by-step. The ignition system is pretty much self-contained and there isn't much to check. First, do the following:
- key turned 'OFF' = 0v, I threw it in there just to make sure something wasn't real hokey
- turn key to 'ON' = 12v
- check voltage at coil - and coil + (both should read ~12v) = 12v
- check the voltage at each terminal for both ignitor connectors = 12v
- the silver looking cylinder on the distributor is the condensor. Has a black wire with either a white or yellow stripe depending on year/model. This is the same wire that connects to coil +. The condensor won't cause lack of spark.
Once this is tested, we know if you have poiwer to everything. Crank over with the coil high tension wire near the metal of the car. The sparks should be obvious. If there is no spark on either coil, either:
- both ignitors are bad
I have 4 ignitors. Two from the old motor that worked fine and two that were on the new motor. I find it very hard to believe that all four are bad. One of the old ones may have done bad but both at the same time is a bit much. I don't know the condition of the news ones but one of the four passed the light bulb test which would lead be to believe they are good.
- the connectors for the ignitors are not making contact (check this out, the terminals can get bent on the ignitor. The plug will go on and you think it is connected, but is not making electrical contact)
All the connectors on all four ignitors are straight and plug in quite easily.
The coils work like this:
-coil + always has 12v
- coil - floats to ~12v normally
- J-109 pulls the coil - to ground. Current flows and the coil charges
- the J-109 releases causing the coil to discharge
Good luck. Let us know what you come up with.
- key turned 'OFF' = 0v, I threw it in there just to make sure something wasn't real hokey
- turn key to 'ON' = 12v
- check voltage at coil - and coil + (both should read ~12v) = 12v
- check the voltage at each terminal for both ignitor connectors = 12v
- the silver looking cylinder on the distributor is the condensor. Has a black wire with either a white or yellow stripe depending on year/model. This is the same wire that connects to coil +. The condensor won't cause lack of spark.
Once this is tested, we know if you have poiwer to everything. Crank over with the coil high tension wire near the metal of the car. The sparks should be obvious. If there is no spark on either coil, either:
- both ignitors are bad
I have 4 ignitors. Two from the old motor that worked fine and two that were on the new motor. I find it very hard to believe that all four are bad. One of the old ones may have done bad but both at the same time is a bit much. I don't know the condition of the news ones but one of the four passed the light bulb test which would lead be to believe they are good.
- the connectors for the ignitors are not making contact (check this out, the terminals can get bent on the ignitor. The plug will go on and you think it is connected, but is not making electrical contact)
All the connectors on all four ignitors are straight and plug in quite easily.
The coils work like this:
-coil + always has 12v
- coil - floats to ~12v normally
- J-109 pulls the coil - to ground. Current flows and the coil charges
- the J-109 releases causing the coil to discharge
Good luck. Let us know what you come up with.
