1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Not another won't start thread!!

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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 12:19 AM
  #1  
RotaryMelon's Avatar
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Not another won't start thread!!

Yup it is.. But I can't figure this out..

Car was running fine sept-oct 'ish , then I parked it for about a month, went to go out and start it. No go, few days later I managed to get it started, sputtering and backfiring it stalls out... Couldn't even get close to that since.. I recently replaced the cracked dizzy rotor, cap, plug wires, and plugs with new NGKs... went to start it.. same as before.. rrrRrrRrrrRrR. RrrRrRrrr... I hate that sound

Only thing I can think of is.. not enough power from the battery.. but it used to start right up with the OLD plugs and cracked rotor + old battery..

Any input guys?

Thxx
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 05:09 AM
  #2  
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Charge the battery, dump about an ounce of Seafoam down the carb (small barrels), then try it again and let us know. (don't let the big white cloud of smoke scare you when it starts up).
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 07:16 AM
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Our motors rely on good cranking compression to get them started. Sitting for a month in the cold without starting with probably have the battery somewhat discharged. If that battery has any age on it then it's probably weak to begin with.

My recommendation to anyone that is trying to start a Carb'd motor that has been sitting for a period of time and that the battery might be low. Which means if you go to start it and it seems like it's cranking slower than normal. Either put a charger on it with the boost capability or jump it with another vehicle. Once you start cranking and the battery is low there is a very good chance that you are going to flood it.
If you don't have a charger or another vehicle to jump with then I suggest that you spray either carb cleaner or preferably starting fluid down the primary side of the carb. Thiswill help tremendously with the combustion process and allow it to start almost instantly without the risk of flooding.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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excellent! I will try those.. I believe the battery is 6 or 7 years old.. and its leaking acid everywhere.. that connected into corroded bulging battery cables cant be good... I had a car jumping me, but it wouldn't go... even after i put a little gas down the carb.

I will just buy a new battery and try the spray..

Thanks for all the responses
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:47 AM
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Get that battery out of the car NOW. Leaking batterys are dangrous and have the potential to explode if the hydrogen gas leaks out and comes into contact with an ignition source, i.e., a spark. The leaking acid is also destroying the paint coating on the bodywork and the exposed metal quickly begins to rust out. Be sure to neutralize the area where the acid has leaked and prime/paint all of the damaged areas. Remove the battery tray so you can repair all of the damaged areas. I powdercoat all of my battery trays, but the truckbed liner in a spray can will do an excelent job of preserving the tray too, along with any other damaged bodywork.

A battery that old has exceeded it's useful life span, time for a replacement. Sounds like it's time to replace the battery cables also.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:35 AM
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Yes, I 100% agree with you, and the battery is already out. Will changing the cables bridge the gap between starting or not? I want to spend as least as possible to get this car running because I have to sell it asap.

I have another 1st gen on my purchase waiting list
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:48 AM
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Try the battery first, that might be enough to get it running. If not, then move on to the cables...
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 03:40 AM
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If the swelling on the battery cables is at the end near the battry clamps, you may have enough cable to cut out the swollen part and install new clamps. The swelling is an indication of internal corrosion, usually on the positive cable which is aluminum oem. The corrosion creates a good deal of resistance and can severly limit the amperage that reaches the starter.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 03:44 AM
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Exactly my case, the positive cable has a bulge right by the clamp, the negative cable looks fine.. Maybe i'll just do that then.

Thanks!
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