I got an 84 se. Was running great, then died. Would not restart. Did some checking, not getting any power to fuel pump. Still have to check "x-14" ground but not hopeful that's it. Probably a relay, or useable link, just don't know which one. Or where it's located.

- thanks n advanced

 

There is a fuel cut relay under the dash that can be jumpered to by pass it. It's a common failure. It's located just under the dash where your right knee would be and to the left of the center console where the radio is. it's a six prong connector. Check the wiring diagram for which pair of prongs need to be jumpered. The relay is about $50 so this is why many people just jumper it.

 

The GSL-SE relay is not under the dash. It is located under the passenger carpet next to the ECU.

 

Thanks for correcting me. Haven't had to deal with a 13b setup yet.

 

Got the relay ordered, now the wait....

 

I bypassed my relay. I did the wire loop thing just like how you do it under the dash on 12A cars.

 

How's that done? Which wires? N is it supposed to b plugged back in?

 

Actually because you have a GSL-SE, you might not want to do this bypass mod. I don't know as I am not a GSL-SE expert. I went Nikki in my car and haven't regretted it.

 

Wouldn't mind doing this mod (with a kill switch) just need to know which wires to "jump". Wirering schematics r Greek to me

 

It looks like the 13B relay, called the Circuit Opening Relay, does not function the same as the 12A version. The 12A version is a safety thing to cut voltage to the fuel pump. The 13B is a little different. It may not be your issue.

There is a troubleshooting guide on page 4B-15 of the factory service manual. It could be found here. You might also want to learn Greek because reading electrical schematic is a key part of troubleshooting.

http://www.foxed.ca/rx7manual/manual...ssions_13B.pdf

 

I jumpered mine like a 12A. Worked fine with my 12A-like setup. I probed the wires and made a quick jumper.

 

This is what I did on my 12A. measured voltage with key on/off to confirm voltage then made a jumper.

The GSL-SE also gets an input from the Air Flow Meter. If this input is bad, it could be causing the issue. Removing the relay and jumpering BR (Black-Red upper left) to L (Blue upper right) should bypass the relay. I haven't testing my GSL-SE to validate this but looking at the wiring diagram this should be the case.

 

Br to blue is correct. However, I'm gonna wait for the relay. I work for one of the corporate parts places. I get a great discount, n I won't have any worries. Thanks to both of you for your help. I'll know in the morning for sure.

 

Ok got my relay, n still no power to fuel pump. Checked the relay connector, no voltage from the BR wire. Key on or off. From what I can tell n the wiring diagram that wire feeds from the ecu. Does that mean my ecu is toast? Or am I missing something?

 

It wont get power until you crank on an SE if I remember right.

 

Yes, I believe that it correct t_g.

Why not just jump out the plug by the AFM? That's how you can eliminate a lot of guessing here. If the pump works, then you have other issues.

 

I did just exactly that, no start. Checked spark n found weak spark on leading, no spark trailing. Dizzy cap was not properly seated n found some plastic crumbs n the rotor. Although cap n rotor still look good, but the spring loaded connection n the center of cap is jacked....😐

 

Trailing coil triggers the ECU on when to fire the fuel injectors. You're not getting Trailing spark, therefore, you're not getting injectors, therefore the car won't start.

A road-side fix is to move the spade terminal from the Trailing coil to the Leading coil, which will then trigger the injectors and the engine will run - but injector timing will be off. It will get you home, however as I used this trick once when I was stranded and had nothing better to do than think through solutions.

The fix is to check your trailing ignitor by swapping it with leading and see if that fixes the problem. If yes, then you have a bad ignitor in the leading position now and it needs to be replaced. Don't forget to move the ECU signal wire back to Trailing Coil or your injection timing will be off.

Search my name and 'Bad Ignitor' for the troubleshooting steps - we just went through this with someone else about a month ago.

 

Spade connector from the trailing to leading, is that the neg? The one without the "dust boot"

 

I believe what LongDuck meant is to take the positive wire from the trailing coil and move it to the leading. The wire should be black/yellow. From the diagram it looks like that BY wire goes to terminal A on the ECU.

If your car starts after moving that wire over to the leading coil, then like LD said, your ignitor is probably shot.

 

I moved the BY wire to the pos post on the lead coil, no start. Had to go to work. Tried it with my back up dizzy cap, still no go. I ve got a back up coil I'm gonna swap around n the morning b4 work. I don't get it, car was running great. Held a near perfect idle. Slow fluctuations between 800-830 rpm. Has a little bit of blue smoke from exhaust. Small oil leak @ the oil cooler. Needs new oil lines. I backed out, got out to close garage door. Took 3 steps, n it died. Not stumble n stall. Quicker than it turns off with the key. Very frustrating

 

Nope, I'm talking about the ECU lead which is the black wire off the loom which connects to the negative top spade connection on the atrailing coil (nearest the front of the car). What youre testing is whether the Trailing COIL is firing or not which if it's not, will not be sending an ECU signal, and thus your injectors would not be firing.

If you move that ECU signal to the OTHER coil, and the car runs, now you have identified either a bad coil, OR a bad ignitor. Ignitors are known to go bad from time to time, whereas coils are not.

A quick search on my name and Ignitors would even show you pics of what I'm talking about. Put it back the way it should be, then move your ECU signal wire to the other coil and try to start it.

 

Thanks for clearing that up LongDuck. I misinterpreted what you meant.

 

Sorry I misinterpreted what LongDuck meant. Perhaps you can try what he said and confirm that it is your trailing ignitor.

 

Switched the YG wire to leading coil, fired right up. Ran for a minute, then died. Had to leave for work. Will try swapping igniters when I get home