no fuel,Ithink
#1
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no fuel,Ithink
I have a 85 gsl-se
Ok I'll revue what I did
1 The car started for 2 sec, then died
2 I checked the fuel pump , found that the wire connector rusted in the back seat(sun roof must leak)
3 cut wires and used sta con connectors, rewired
4 tryed to start ,same thing runs for two sec then dies
5 So I'm thinkin' must have killed the pump,replaced pump and filter
6 same thing runs for 2 sec dies this time I put a volt meter on and started. On starting I get voltage then none after 2 sec.It's like as soon as it starts it kills the pump (and yes its the right polarity)
7 So should I look for the relay, computer?
Ok I'll revue what I did
1 The car started for 2 sec, then died
2 I checked the fuel pump , found that the wire connector rusted in the back seat(sun roof must leak)
3 cut wires and used sta con connectors, rewired
4 tryed to start ,same thing runs for two sec then dies
5 So I'm thinkin' must have killed the pump,replaced pump and filter
6 same thing runs for 2 sec dies this time I put a volt meter on and started. On starting I get voltage then none after 2 sec.It's like as soon as it starts it kills the pump (and yes its the right polarity)
7 So should I look for the relay, computer?
Last edited by vellomike; 06-24-09 at 12:19 PM. Reason: more info
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Air Flow Meter switch could be bad.
You can check this by going to the Air Filter airbox at the passenger side front of the engine bay. Under the airbox, near the right front strut tower toward the front, will be a 2-lead connector on the same wire loom as the AFM connector. This is the Fuel Injector Test plug. Grab a short length of wire, 2 spade connectors, and shunt across that connector. This will allow the fuel pump to run 100% of the time with the key in the ON position, instead of only when the AFM switch shows there is incoming air.
Mazda designed this system on the SE's to help prevent flooding when fuel injectors might bypass fuel, and the switch inside the AFM is set to only turn on the fuel pump when the 'door' is open.
If the car runs after running the 'shunt' across the test plug, then you've found your problem. Remove the test plug, and you can also try removing the air filter and sticking a pencil or wooden dowel into the air intake to push the 'door' on the AFM back - you will be able to hear fuel pressurize in the fuel rail.
That's my guess. Have a look and reply back,
You can check this by going to the Air Filter airbox at the passenger side front of the engine bay. Under the airbox, near the right front strut tower toward the front, will be a 2-lead connector on the same wire loom as the AFM connector. This is the Fuel Injector Test plug. Grab a short length of wire, 2 spade connectors, and shunt across that connector. This will allow the fuel pump to run 100% of the time with the key in the ON position, instead of only when the AFM switch shows there is incoming air.
Mazda designed this system on the SE's to help prevent flooding when fuel injectors might bypass fuel, and the switch inside the AFM is set to only turn on the fuel pump when the 'door' is open.
If the car runs after running the 'shunt' across the test plug, then you've found your problem. Remove the test plug, and you can also try removing the air filter and sticking a pencil or wooden dowel into the air intake to push the 'door' on the AFM back - you will be able to hear fuel pressurize in the fuel rail.
That's my guess. Have a look and reply back,
#3
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Problem in fuel pump relay or the switch in the AFM. Your AFM is plugged in, correct?
Try this. There is a connector near the air flow meter in the engine bay that has a black rubber boot. Take a piece of wire and connect the two terminals in this connector together. This jumper wire should cause the fuel pump to run whenever the key is 'ON'.
Turn the key to 'ON', but don't start. You should hear the fuel pump running. If it is running, try to fire it up.
Let us know how it goes.
Kent
Try this. There is a connector near the air flow meter in the engine bay that has a black rubber boot. Take a piece of wire and connect the two terminals in this connector together. This jumper wire should cause the fuel pump to run whenever the key is 'ON'.
Turn the key to 'ON', but don't start. You should hear the fuel pump running. If it is running, try to fire it up.
Let us know how it goes.
Kent
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sorry
sorry I forgot to mention that I opened up the duct to the 3 barrel to inject starter fluid,once I put that back on it started right up an is now purring like a kitten thanks guys
#7
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Technically, it's not a '3-barrel' (like carbs), but a Throttle Body, but I'm glad you got it fixed. Any air coming into the system that the AFM doesn't see will cause this.
Just a huge vacuum leak, after all.
Just a huge vacuum leak, after all.
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