1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

No compression and runs great???

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Old 12-09-06, 02:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Centripetal, cetrifugal, who cares. The housing is holding the seal in semi-circular path but the seal wants to continue it's motion tangentially to the curve, that's why it moves outward and seals.
Exactly my point trochoid! That's a dead on assessment.
Old 12-09-06, 02:46 PM
  #27  
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This is a shot in the dark. Wonder if the apex springs are upside down on 2 faces of that rear rotor? I know, I'm reaching but the suspense is driving me nuts,lol.
Old 12-09-06, 03:54 PM
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Sorry for the correction Doc, but it would only need to be one seal with the springs upside down. If 2 seals were that way compression would be 0 on all 3 faces. You better get out and chase that little piece of brain fade that just ran out the door and catch it.

My vote is for a weak spring under 1 seal, that or it's binding a tiny bit from carbon.
Old 12-09-06, 03:59 PM
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Or a piece has broken off the apex seal...long shot but...
Old 12-09-06, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by aussiesmg
Or a piece has broken off the apex seal...long shot but...
that was in the back of my mind too, besides the stuck seal..... well we will know this week when i tear her down
Old 12-09-06, 05:48 PM
  #31  
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Talking

Originally Posted by trochoid
Sorry for the correction Doc, but it would only need to be one seal with the springs upside down. If 2 seals were that way compression would be 0 on all 3 faces. You better get out and chase that little piece of brain fade that just ran out the door and catch it.

My vote is for a weak spring under 1 seal, that or it's binding a tiny bit from carbon.
What do you mean? My rotors have 4 sides to them

I can't believe I stated that. That "What's left of the little piece of brain fade", has been much faster then me lately.
Thanks for the correction Trochoid.
Old 12-09-06, 06:21 PM
  #32  
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im going to go with trochoid on this one, honestly..he knows everything else.
Old 12-23-06, 02:27 PM
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Ok, we took apart the motor and found 1 apex seal that had broken on both sides, but just the very tips. Not more than a couple of mm. Housing and rotors look great so I am good there.

So now I am going to have the motor rebuilt. I plan on doing a street port and porting the secondary intakes. Polishing the rotor housings. I am also considering dowel pinning the motor as well.

Before I make any final decisions I wanted some advice from the experts here. Consider that my goal is to keep the car on the edge of streetable, but know its not my daily driver.

1. Is dowel pinning worth it? and what is the cost of this.

2. If using all the best parts available want can I expect a rebuild to cost. (rotors and housing are all reusable)

3. Anything I am missing or should consider at this point when rebuilding the motor.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Old 12-24-06, 04:43 PM
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So now I am going to have the motor rebuilt. I plan on doing a street port and porting the secondary intakes. Polishing the rotor housings. I am also considering dowel pinning the motor as well.

Before I make any final decisions I wanted some advice from the experts here. Consider that my goal is to keep the car on the edge of streetable, but know its not my daily driver.

1. Is dowel pinning worth it? and what is the cost of this.

2. If using all the best parts available want can I expect a rebuild to cost. (rotors and housing are all reusable)

3. Anything I am missing or should consider at this point when rebuilding the motor.

Thanks in advance for your help
Old 12-24-06, 06:04 PM
  #35  
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When I wanted my engine to be rebuilt with a nice port job, slightly higher horsepower for NA FI, and still maintain driveability, I was quoted around $5000.
Old 12-24-06, 06:47 PM
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1 Not worth it unless you are going to be running High HP

2 you doing all the work or sending them out to have everything sone? You doing 2000 should cover it 5000 if you send them out.

3 List everything you are going to do.

If you really wanitn a good rebuild and 8000 RPM up grades. Lap the plates new everything expect to spend big $.
Old 12-24-06, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 85 FB
When I wanted my engine to be rebuilt with a nice port job, slightly higher horsepower for NA FI, and still maintain driveability, I was quoted around $5000.
Thanks for the response. I was quoted $6000 but that was with the dowel pinning and some other goodies. I am just getting a feeling what other people are paying for a rebuild.
Old 12-24-06, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nick812
1 Not worth it unless you are going to be running High HP

2 you doing all the work or sending them out to have everything sone? You doing 2000 should cover it 5000 if you send them out.

3 List everything you are going to do.

If you really wanitn a good rebuild and 8000 RPM up grades. Lap the plates new everything expect to spend big $.
What is considerd high horsepower? My goal is around 500hp.

I am having the work done.

I don't know the details of all the parts, but I do know the apex seals are to be 1 piece, corner seals are beefer than stock. I am also porting the exhaust ports to a street port, porting the secondary intakes and polishing the rotor housings. God this is getting really expensive.
Old 12-25-06, 01:29 AM
  #39  
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I could almost garentee it's chipped apex seals. you can chip a cornet and it'll still run except with a loss in power and a weird intake noise.
Old 12-25-06, 01:38 AM
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he already told us what the problem was...
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