Nikki and her Accelerator Pump
#1
Nikki and her Accelerator Pump
So my accelerator pump decided to only start squirting after about half a throttle opening. I stripped her down, cleaned everything beyond thoroughly, adjusted the rod parallel with the accelerator pump housing per Sterling's instruction.
Still, on a 1/4 throttle opening, no fuel comes out and the obvious lean condition ensues. Check ball is in under the nozzle with the large weight. Small weight is over the inlet with check ball.
Float levels are dead nuts in the middle of the glass when idling.
I'm wondering: if the check ball over the nozzle doesn't seat, does fuel drain back down, and each time I go to use the throttle it has to essentially "pump up" that circuit before it squirts? Is that the function of the nozzle weight/ball?
That's all I can come up with? Makes driving no fun. :O(
Thanks
-Paul
Still, on a 1/4 throttle opening, no fuel comes out and the obvious lean condition ensues. Check ball is in under the nozzle with the large weight. Small weight is over the inlet with check ball.
Float levels are dead nuts in the middle of the glass when idling.
I'm wondering: if the check ball over the nozzle doesn't seat, does fuel drain back down, and each time I go to use the throttle it has to essentially "pump up" that circuit before it squirts? Is that the function of the nozzle weight/ball?
That's all I can come up with? Makes driving no fun. :O(
Thanks
-Paul
#4
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return line is clogged? that needs to be clear for carburation, just checking.
and what do you mean adjusted the rod parallel to the pump? Afaik WA does not have emissions and you can strip everything except the altitude solenoid.
and what do you mean adjusted the rod parallel to the pump? Afaik WA does not have emissions and you can strip everything except the altitude solenoid.
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I doesn't sound like you just did a rebuild, but I thought I would share;
The AP gasket that came with my rebuild kit had too short a rod so that it would only squirt at the very end of the pedal travel....
Make sure that the rod on the gasket actually contacts the actuating rod... for me I had to use my old gasket.
The AP gasket that came with my rebuild kit had too short a rod so that it would only squirt at the very end of the pedal travel....
Make sure that the rod on the gasket actually contacts the actuating rod... for me I had to use my old gasket.
#6
Arcolithe: I will check the return line. This AP issue is the only issue with the carb's runability.
In WA there are emissions, however my '82 is too old to need to pass. I'm running an SA intake (no shutter valve butterfly), with everything as stripped as I've seen able to do from this forum.
Sterling had shown in his accelerator pump article that when adjusting the spring nut from the linkage, the rod that touches the plunger/diaphragm should be vertically parallel to the plunger/diaphragm housing. I've tried to pre load it, and that helps, but it's still not right.
That's an interesting find PP. I was playing with it on the bench when setting up the throw and the arm that sticks out of the gasket/'diaphragm into the housing, the actuating rod has no issue touching, even before the aforementioned parallel setting.
In WA there are emissions, however my '82 is too old to need to pass. I'm running an SA intake (no shutter valve butterfly), with everything as stripped as I've seen able to do from this forum.
Sterling had shown in his accelerator pump article that when adjusting the spring nut from the linkage, the rod that touches the plunger/diaphragm should be vertically parallel to the plunger/diaphragm housing. I've tried to pre load it, and that helps, but it's still not right.
That's an interesting find PP. I was playing with it on the bench when setting up the throw and the arm that sticks out of the gasket/'diaphragm into the housing, the actuating rod has no issue touching, even before the aforementioned parallel setting.
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