Sorry Carl I just seen that you were offline so I PM'ed you.
You're back, awesome!
I'm not sure if I lost any ***** or weights but I was just thinking it's possible the way I sprayed carb cleaner and air throughout the carb. I'm doing body work and installing spings, ect right now..as soon as I'm done I'll take the top plate off the carb and see what I've got...oh yeah, can I just take the top-plater off or will I need to take the carb body off so that I can turn it upside down or what ever to get the *****/weights out? Thanks for your help.

 

and yes I removed the nut on the accel pump linkage when I first removed the carb, but I've screwed it in and then out and then the middle, ect and can't really tell a difference cause I still have the stutter off of idle.

 

Well you'll probably need to flip it over to get them out to see if anything is missing. Well unscrewing it makes it squirt earlier. Your problem may be simply one of adjusting that nut. Try backing it out.

 

and sorry for being so impatient I just got excited...been trouble-shooting this carb for over 2 weeks. Doc, Trochoid and Wolff has helped me a ton, they helped to actually get me running so far...it's the fine tuning thing that a bastard to learn over the internet.
Thanks again.

 

No I did do that...Once the carb was installed again I turned that nut all the way out and all the way in and in the middle, ect, seemed to have a little better response when it was unscrewed but still had the stutter that why I think it's the ***** and weights. Dang I don't wanna take that carb off again...third times a charm I guess!

 

And it's not vacuum or electrical, I've elminated everything I could think of...replaced all vacuum lines(like 32 or something)...new fireball coils, plugs, wires, dielect greased every connection I could find, on and on...It has to be the carb, I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again for your quick response, I feel hope again...I gotta get off-line now

 

I don't believe it. I think it's a trap.......

I bet Carl has forgot more about these carbs, than many people will ever know........

 

I believe it.
I almost had a stroke w/this car, I knew taking it to the shop was a waste of $ on a rotary because my problem could have been a number of things opposed to just the carb and no shop around me specializes on rotary...so I come here get alot of guidance and I'm glad I did and glad I did it myself cause now I know my car intimately but to know I have a nikki guru living right down the hwy? wow! It sure is a small world.

 

Yeah, that's what I was getting at. Carl is well known for his Nikki carb skills.
One more advantage to doing the work yourself, you have complete controll of the quality of parts/labor that goes into it.
I have a freind that owns a shop, and I had him rebuild the auto trans for my truck. That is the only thing I will not attempt. He respects my knowledge of rotaries, but he won't touch them. I respect his knowledge of auto trans, but I won't touch them. Works for both of us.

 

don't get me started on rebuilding auto tranny's...Most trans shops cut more corners and rip you off worse than a crooked used-car salesman.

 

Yeah, which is why I took to the guy I know. He doesn't "Specialize" in Auto tranny's, but he winds up rebuilding many of the ones that are "Rebuilt" by the shop who claims they do.
Besides, he not only let me watch, but was trying (in vain) to teach me how to do it myself. I kept trying to tell him he was rebuilding the only auto tranny I own, and if it had any problem within the next 5 years/75,000 miles, it was on him anyways.

 

lol
Well I gotta do some searching, looking for the 2 little ***** that go in the nikki carb and the weights that go w/them...I think I blew mine out in the yard somewhere...I don't want to tear open my carb, find them missing and then have to order them and wait...besides if they are in the carb and just gummed up then I'll be able to replace them anyway.
I also have to find the steel braided line that goes to the exhaust connecting pipe w/the sensor on it(I believe that's the O2 sensor?)
Well at least I believe I still need that sensor/line for the connecting pipe w/the racing beat exhaust opposed to the stock exhaust?

 

12A's had no O2 sensor. They do have a sensor in the floorboard, above the exhaust, to warn of exhaust overheating. This is a common symptom of clogging cats. With the RB exhaust, there shouldn't be any need for the overheat sensor.

 

Hmm...are you sure?
Then I could just plug it off/weld up the hole on the connecting pipe?

 

Yep...

 

thanks guys

 

Holley Dominator air bleeds will work as jets in the nikki's. if your not doing major mods then theres no need to rejet, if you decide you have to, then bump up the primaries slightly, the secondaries are already a little big for a stock application so you will have a rich top end regardless.

isaac

p.s. listen to sterling and carl, they know their stuff

 

No the jets are staying stock and they are just fine, what we've been talking about is that I believe that I lost the 2 small ***** and 2 weights(pump inlet check ball and weight...and/or pump disc ball and weight)when I rebuilt/cleaned my carb...it was my fault but just trying to locate some(Trochoid is scrounging as we speak for some). Carl said he had some ***** but not weights and I'm definately gonna hookup w/him soon but when I hookup w/him I don't want him to have to pull/inspect my carb if I can do it myself, I just want him to maybe listen to and check out my 12a and maybe do a little fuel air adjustments once I fix my screwup(and maybe give me a few performance suggestions/tips).

 

lol, I totally highjacked this thread