1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Nikki bowl not filling up?

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Old 07-17-14, 10:32 AM
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I removed the top of the carb and touched the bowl and it started squiritng fuel again. I guess it was stuck. I also added the return line and check valve.
Old 07-17-14, 11:14 AM
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Nevermind, my holley does not use a rerurn line so I wont need it.
Old 07-17-14, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by luiml73
I removed the top of the carb and touched the bowl and it started squiritng fuel again. I guess it was stuck. I also added the return line and check valve.
Yup; sticky needle. Welcome to the (very large) club!
Old 07-18-14, 12:20 AM
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A nikki had a stuck accel pump ball under the brass weight below the nozzle. The carb only sat for like a month. Of course I got it freed up and will test run it tomorrow. Ever had this happen before? I ask here because something on your carb was stuck too.
Old 07-18-14, 10:35 AM
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I've had the check ***** get stuck before, but it wasn't that rapid (or maybe it was but I didn't notice it for a long time). Poor/wet fuel does make it more likely - the ***** are not stainless and will rust if wet!
Old 07-21-14, 08:54 AM
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If you plan to keep the holley for the SP, then you'll still want a return line.

Holley carbs like to do funny things when run with a deadhead regulator. Just use a return style regulator to avoid pressure spikes and creep at the carb. The stock holley needles are huge (.97) and tend to creep a lot when the carb is cold or when the engine is starting up and shaking.

Nothing worse than the engine starting right up, then flooding from the fuel bowls being too high lol
Old 07-21-14, 12:12 PM
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Thanks wankel, the holley has one inlet only so the only way to run a return line is through a return regulator like this?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp
Old 07-21-14, 01:09 PM
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Mallory 4309 is able to go down to 2.5psi for the Nikki. It is a return style. You block off the return fitting on the carb and use the return of the mallory to go back to the tank. It will also work with the Holley.
Old 07-21-14, 02:14 PM
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I just read on the Racing beat website that my Mallory 4070m has an Internal regulator set at 6psi. I called RB and they said that I dont need any type of regulator with my fuel pump and RB Holley. They only recommend the 4309 for Racing applications "Dragracing"

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Fuel-System/18150.html

4309

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1986-1992/Fuel-System/18151.html
Old 07-22-14, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by luiml73
I just read on the Racing beat website that my Mallory 4070m has an Internal regulator set at 6psi. I called RB and they said that I dont need any type of regulator with my fuel pump and RB Holley. They only recommend the 4309 for Racing applications "Dragracing"

Mallory 4070M Fuel Pump for RX7 1986-1992 - Racing Beat

4309

Mallory 4309 Fuel Pressure Regulator for RX7 1986-1992 - Racing Beat

They know just enough about carbs and fuel systems to be dangerous. They make parts, they sell them. Most of their high $$ **** these days is FI, which in terms of tuning is actually easier when you have the money. The advice they give in these kinds of situations is pretty bad imo.

I was told by a "30 year experienced" engineer whos name I wont mention that to swap an 86 6 port to carb in an FC id have to use a GSLSE front cover, which is bullshit seeing as the FB distributers drop right in to the correct FC front cover. And while he was giving me ignition advice, he went on to tell me that the leading ignitor controlled the front rotor ignition, and that the trailing fired the rear rotor.

But the reason you WANT a regulator with a return is exactly what I stated before. Pressure creep happens. Pressure drop happens. Ambient air temps and atmospheric changes affect the positive pressure in the fuel tank all the time. Its absolutely naive to assume just because your fuel pump is rated at 6 psi that it will deliver 6 psi steady to the carb after 6 feet of bends and 90 degree angles and fuel filters and the like.

Also, not running a regulator leaves you in the aforementioned dead-head state of fuel system. Its harder on the fuel pumps, easier to flood the engine, and its just an cheap and lazy way to fuel the engine.

While im on the subject of cheap and lazy fueling components, you *should* upgrade that carb to use cathedral or center hung fuel bowls. The single inlet banjo---->5/16 hard line---->90*bend on the carb is a silly way to get even pressure and supply to the primary and secondary fuel bowls.

I know its all advice that you and most will ignore because "if it aint broke" mentality, but these things make a big difference if you actually push the car and engine for more than just a dyno run kind of performance. For a while I lived with holley carbs everyday, and I found out the hard way the importance of basically learning it all from scratch...

And for you, the best reason to be weary of the RB advice is that they were the same company that told you a holley carb couldnt be jetted down to run leaner. And in response, tried to sell you another carb entirely. LOL
Old 07-23-14, 10:20 AM
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I will probably get the 4309FP, because I don't want any stress on my Mallory FP.

Thanks for the advice
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