Nifty Tips
Nifty Tips
I thought I'd start a thread about nifty tips the forum has to make life easier, whether for daily operation or for mods.
Here's my $0.02: Teflon Gaskets. You can buy thin sheets of this stuff at a plastic supply and cut it to shape. Once you do this, you won't have to scrape gaskets on the next rebuild.
Here's my $0.02: Teflon Gaskets. You can buy thin sheets of this stuff at a plastic supply and cut it to shape. Once you do this, you won't have to scrape gaskets on the next rebuild.
This is what I've learned during my 10 years wrenching on my 1st gen and on this forum.
1. Measure twice, cut once.
2. Listen to Trochoid.
3. Search first, then ask.
4. Fixing the big nut connecting the steering wheel and the gas peddle will make the car faster than any turbo II conversion.
5. Read through the instructions of whatever task is it you're doing before starting, it'll go by easier.
1. Measure twice, cut once.
2. Listen to Trochoid.
3. Search first, then ask.
4. Fixing the big nut connecting the steering wheel and the gas peddle will make the car faster than any turbo II conversion.
5. Read through the instructions of whatever task is it you're doing before starting, it'll go by easier.
7-less
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
From: No. Virginia, USA
1. If you want it done right, do it yourself.
2. If you don't have time to do it right, you must have time to do it over.
3. The job must be done and it must be done well.
4. If you don't know how something works, tear it apart, get intimate with it, and attempt to put it back together.
5. Knowledge comes with experience.
6. Get the right tools for what you're going to work on: work smarter, not harder.
7. When all else fails, use a hammer.
2. If you don't have time to do it right, you must have time to do it over.
3. The job must be done and it must be done well.
4. If you don't know how something works, tear it apart, get intimate with it, and attempt to put it back together.
5. Knowledge comes with experience.
6. Get the right tools for what you're going to work on: work smarter, not harder.
7. When all else fails, use a hammer.
So far so good.
1. A biggie, read the ******* FSM, carb manual etc. I cannot stess this enough. I doesn't tell you everything, but it will tell you most of what you need to know.
2. Take pics, especially if you are doing it for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd time. Then if if you have a question, post the pic so we know what your asking about in your question.
3. Tools, you can never have enough. If you can't buy it, rent it. Not only will the proper tool and it's useage save time, it will save headaches, aggravation, torn up knuckles and fubared parts.
4. Not only do it right the 1st time, buy the right parts, even if they are more expensive. Buying a cheap crap part only means you will be buying the better part later and spend more time and money.
5. If you think the repair is going to cost you 100 bucks, budget 200+. There is always more to do. Replacing/upgrading one part more often than not leads to more parts that need replaced.
6. Don't give up. If the repair/mod you plan on doing is new to you, research it. I still often spend more time learning and studying a new mod/upgrade than the actual work time takes.
7. You are smarter than the car. While this may sound silly, you have a brain, it doesn't. This means that often you not only need to learn how it works, but learn and understand whys behind how it works and how it integrates with the rest of the systems. This is partucularly important in trouble shooting/diagnosing engine problems.
8. Don't listen to rumors, myths, or what your brother's uncle-in-law's cousin heard from a friend that used to own a rotary. Get the facts. Fyi, most piston guys have thier head up thier *** when it comes to rotay engines.
I could go on and on, but let's hear from everyone.
1. A biggie, read the ******* FSM, carb manual etc. I cannot stess this enough. I doesn't tell you everything, but it will tell you most of what you need to know.
2. Take pics, especially if you are doing it for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd time. Then if if you have a question, post the pic so we know what your asking about in your question.
3. Tools, you can never have enough. If you can't buy it, rent it. Not only will the proper tool and it's useage save time, it will save headaches, aggravation, torn up knuckles and fubared parts.
4. Not only do it right the 1st time, buy the right parts, even if they are more expensive. Buying a cheap crap part only means you will be buying the better part later and spend more time and money.
5. If you think the repair is going to cost you 100 bucks, budget 200+. There is always more to do. Replacing/upgrading one part more often than not leads to more parts that need replaced.
6. Don't give up. If the repair/mod you plan on doing is new to you, research it. I still often spend more time learning and studying a new mod/upgrade than the actual work time takes.
7. You are smarter than the car. While this may sound silly, you have a brain, it doesn't. This means that often you not only need to learn how it works, but learn and understand whys behind how it works and how it integrates with the rest of the systems. This is partucularly important in trouble shooting/diagnosing engine problems.
8. Don't listen to rumors, myths, or what your brother's uncle-in-law's cousin heard from a friend that used to own a rotary. Get the facts. Fyi, most piston guys have thier head up thier *** when it comes to rotay engines.
I could go on and on, but let's hear from everyone.
Originally Posted by trochoid
So far so good.
1. A biggie, read the ******* FSM, carb manual etc. I cannot stess this enough. I doesn't tell you everything, but it will tell you most of what you need to know.
2. Take pics, especially if you are doing it for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd time. Then if if you have a question, post the pic so we know what your asking about in your question.
3. Tools, you can never have enough. If you can't buy it, rent it. Not only will the proper tool and it's useage save time, it will save headaches, aggravation, torn up knuckles and fubared parts.
4. Not only do it right the 1st time, buy the right parts, even if they are more expensive. Buying a cheap crap part only means you will be buying the better part later and spend more time and money.
5. If you think the repair is going to cost you 100 bucks, budget 200+. There is always more to do. Replacing/upgrading one part more often than not leads to more parts that need replaced.
6. Don't give up. If the repair/mod you plan on doing is new to you, research it. I still often spend more time learning and studying a new mod/upgrade than the actual work time takes.
7. You are smarter than the car. While this may sound silly, you have a brain, it doesn't. This means that often you not only need to learn how it works, but learn and understand whys behind how it works and how it integrates with the rest of the systems. This is partucularly important in trouble shooting/diagnosing engine problems.
8. Don't listen to rumors, myths, or what your brother's uncle-in-law's cousin heard from a friend that used to own a rotary. Get the facts. Fyi, most piston guys have thier head up thier *** when it comes to rotay engines.
I could go on and on, but let's hear from everyone.
1. A biggie, read the ******* FSM, carb manual etc. I cannot stess this enough. I doesn't tell you everything, but it will tell you most of what you need to know.
2. Take pics, especially if you are doing it for the 1st, 2nd, 3rd time. Then if if you have a question, post the pic so we know what your asking about in your question.
3. Tools, you can never have enough. If you can't buy it, rent it. Not only will the proper tool and it's useage save time, it will save headaches, aggravation, torn up knuckles and fubared parts.
4. Not only do it right the 1st time, buy the right parts, even if they are more expensive. Buying a cheap crap part only means you will be buying the better part later and spend more time and money.
5. If you think the repair is going to cost you 100 bucks, budget 200+. There is always more to do. Replacing/upgrading one part more often than not leads to more parts that need replaced.
6. Don't give up. If the repair/mod you plan on doing is new to you, research it. I still often spend more time learning and studying a new mod/upgrade than the actual work time takes.
7. You are smarter than the car. While this may sound silly, you have a brain, it doesn't. This means that often you not only need to learn how it works, but learn and understand whys behind how it works and how it integrates with the rest of the systems. This is partucularly important in trouble shooting/diagnosing engine problems.
8. Don't listen to rumors, myths, or what your brother's uncle-in-law's cousin heard from a friend that used to own a rotary. Get the facts. Fyi, most piston guys have thier head up thier *** when it comes to rotay engines.
I could go on and on, but let's hear from everyone.
Refer to my #2!
nice list weve got goin, heres what i could come up w/
1) don't wait until something is problem before you fix it, it could be much more costly if you wait (ie. worn tierod Vs. seperated tierod + crashed car....ive seen it several times at my work)
2) it never hurts to replace every 20+ year old piece of rubber on the car, such as vac. lines and brake hoses. chances are, the're dry rotted and cracked
1) don't wait until something is problem before you fix it, it could be much more costly if you wait (ie. worn tierod Vs. seperated tierod + crashed car....ive seen it several times at my work)
2) it never hurts to replace every 20+ year old piece of rubber on the car, such as vac. lines and brake hoses. chances are, the're dry rotted and cracked
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Originally Posted by clbsinvaders
A nice long magnet in case that screw you absolutely *need* falls at the wrong time.
My cordless drill is rapidly becoming one of my favorite tools. I cutoff a 3/8" extension so it would fit in the chuck, stuck sockets on it, and now I use it to drive nuts and bolts. I have long studs on my wheels, and this is a real time saver for those.
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Search, listen search then react, don't be like me, don't take Marcello seriously in the lounge but do take him seriously here. Search. Pb blaster is your friend. If you cant find a part ask 13b4me, doc, or wacky, if they dont have it make it lol.
Like has already been mentioned a huge part of working on cars is using the proper tools (name brands cost more for a reason!). They are expensive as hell but remember you only need to buy them once. Also organization of the tools, nothing is worse than a shop with tools scattered everywhere. This not only makes the job take longer, it's also very frusturating.
Use flare nut wrenches when they are required, a good drill and a set of taps can be life savers from time to time.
Research, research, research. So many people ask if things are possible with cars, well anything is possible, it's all a matter of time, ability to manufacture custom parts and creative ability.
Never be afraid to ask questions. Everyone has questions from time to time and no question is stupid (that is unless it is something that has been covered multiple times and a simple search would have turned up the same answer).
Always leave lots of down time when you are doing any modification or any work to your car. Take things one step at a time in order to ensure the job is done properly and you are confident in your work. Rushed jobs never turn out as good as they could have...
Don't listen to everything others say, there is alot of people who think they are mechanics/technicians who shouldn't be anywhere near cars. Make sure you know who you are getting your information from. False knowledge can not only waste your time, it can also be dangerous and expensive.
Never cheap out when you are buying car parts. Parts can be expensive, but its for a reason you get what you pay for (not always the case, but most of the time... Research helps here as well). So many people go with imitation parts from ebay, not only do they lack the longevity of real parts, they can also end up costing you large repair bills in the end.
Invest in a good floor jack, and good jackstands. Make sure you use the proper lift points on a vehicle and you are always using jackstands if you are under the vehicle at all!
Another good tip is to get to know your local rotary community, it can really come in handy when you are in need of small parts and a little help with your vehicle.
If you keep blowing fuses in one circuit in your vehicle, you can use a circuit breaker in place of a fuse to use as a temporary alternative to blowing a huge pile of fuses. This will allow you to find the fault in the wiring with out spending alot of money on fuses. There is a bimetallic strip in a circuit breaker and once over a certain current goes through it the strip bends breaking the connection until it cools back down.
Frequently check the for sale section on this forum, there is some awesome deals from time to time and you can end up saving alot of money.
Use flare nut wrenches when they are required, a good drill and a set of taps can be life savers from time to time.
Research, research, research. So many people ask if things are possible with cars, well anything is possible, it's all a matter of time, ability to manufacture custom parts and creative ability.
Never be afraid to ask questions. Everyone has questions from time to time and no question is stupid (that is unless it is something that has been covered multiple times and a simple search would have turned up the same answer).
Always leave lots of down time when you are doing any modification or any work to your car. Take things one step at a time in order to ensure the job is done properly and you are confident in your work. Rushed jobs never turn out as good as they could have...
Don't listen to everything others say, there is alot of people who think they are mechanics/technicians who shouldn't be anywhere near cars. Make sure you know who you are getting your information from. False knowledge can not only waste your time, it can also be dangerous and expensive.
Never cheap out when you are buying car parts. Parts can be expensive, but its for a reason you get what you pay for (not always the case, but most of the time... Research helps here as well). So many people go with imitation parts from ebay, not only do they lack the longevity of real parts, they can also end up costing you large repair bills in the end.
Invest in a good floor jack, and good jackstands. Make sure you use the proper lift points on a vehicle and you are always using jackstands if you are under the vehicle at all!
Another good tip is to get to know your local rotary community, it can really come in handy when you are in need of small parts and a little help with your vehicle.
If you keep blowing fuses in one circuit in your vehicle, you can use a circuit breaker in place of a fuse to use as a temporary alternative to blowing a huge pile of fuses. This will allow you to find the fault in the wiring with out spending alot of money on fuses. There is a bimetallic strip in a circuit breaker and once over a certain current goes through it the strip bends breaking the connection until it cools back down.
Frequently check the for sale section on this forum, there is some awesome deals from time to time and you can end up saving alot of money.
Last edited by Dan_s_young; Mar 4, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 11,359
Likes: 14
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Okay, from my own experiences:
1. Seafoam is your friend. I use it every three months or so (1 can to 1/8 tank of fuel) and always feel a boost in performance afterwards, most likely due to increased compression by freeing up the apex seals. This is in a motor with 208,000 miles on it that is used regularly for autocross. Since it hasn't blown my motor yet, I figure its a pretty safe product to use.
2. (Taken from "How to hotrod and race your Datsun") Synchros whining? Gears gnashing while shifting? Hard to shift fast? Try this for lube in your manual tranny: 1/2 standard gear lube + 1/2 automatic tranny fluid. The ATF has lots of detergents which help to clean all of the crud out of the synchros, but still provides plenty of lube for the tranny. I've always used this in my cars, and always saw an improvement.
3. Rewire your headlights! Check out www.danielsternlighting.com for details on why this is important for optimal lighting output. The stock wiring is small gauge, and the power feeds all the way into the cabin, through the control switches, then back out to the headlights. Some of that wiring is extremely small gauge, which results in massive drops in the power before it even gets to the bulbs. Using heavy gauge wire (I used 10 gauge) from your power source, straight to a relay installed by the headlights, will correct this. Very simple to do, and you don't have to touch anything in the cabin or near the controls. Results are astounding.
4. Redline your motor periodically. Nothing will kill a rotory faster than continous "granny" driving. These engines were built for racing, not grocery getting. Redlining helps to keep the apex seals moving freely by blowing out the carbon buildup.
5. Use the lowest octane gas you can find.
6. Never let your motor overheat!
7. Replace your front end parts (tie rod ends, idler arm, ball joints). These parts are getting to be pretty old, and you don't want one of these items to break while driving.
8. If your motor smokes heavily during high rpm deceleration, then check your oil level. If it is too full, then you found your problem. If not, then your oil control seals are worn out. The only way to fix this is to rebuild. However, if this is the only problem with your engine, then you might be able to deal with it until a rebuild is really necessary. Do a search for Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.
9. Phillips Xtra Vision headlights are MUCH better than the Silverstars (and cheaper to boot).
10. Change your fuel filter.
1. Seafoam is your friend. I use it every three months or so (1 can to 1/8 tank of fuel) and always feel a boost in performance afterwards, most likely due to increased compression by freeing up the apex seals. This is in a motor with 208,000 miles on it that is used regularly for autocross. Since it hasn't blown my motor yet, I figure its a pretty safe product to use.
2. (Taken from "How to hotrod and race your Datsun") Synchros whining? Gears gnashing while shifting? Hard to shift fast? Try this for lube in your manual tranny: 1/2 standard gear lube + 1/2 automatic tranny fluid. The ATF has lots of detergents which help to clean all of the crud out of the synchros, but still provides plenty of lube for the tranny. I've always used this in my cars, and always saw an improvement.
3. Rewire your headlights! Check out www.danielsternlighting.com for details on why this is important for optimal lighting output. The stock wiring is small gauge, and the power feeds all the way into the cabin, through the control switches, then back out to the headlights. Some of that wiring is extremely small gauge, which results in massive drops in the power before it even gets to the bulbs. Using heavy gauge wire (I used 10 gauge) from your power source, straight to a relay installed by the headlights, will correct this. Very simple to do, and you don't have to touch anything in the cabin or near the controls. Results are astounding.
4. Redline your motor periodically. Nothing will kill a rotory faster than continous "granny" driving. These engines were built for racing, not grocery getting. Redlining helps to keep the apex seals moving freely by blowing out the carbon buildup.
5. Use the lowest octane gas you can find.
6. Never let your motor overheat!
7. Replace your front end parts (tie rod ends, idler arm, ball joints). These parts are getting to be pretty old, and you don't want one of these items to break while driving.
8. If your motor smokes heavily during high rpm deceleration, then check your oil level. If it is too full, then you found your problem. If not, then your oil control seals are worn out. The only way to fix this is to rebuild. However, if this is the only problem with your engine, then you might be able to deal with it until a rebuild is really necessary. Do a search for Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.
9. Phillips Xtra Vision headlights are MUCH better than the Silverstars (and cheaper to boot).
10. Change your fuel filter.
Too old to act my age
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,164
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok.
My biggest tip, add an additional fuel filter just ahead of the carb. This will keep the 20+ years of crud in the fuel lines/tank, from becoming crud in carb. Crud in the carb requires a rebuild.
If your car has spent a couple years sitting, this becomes even more important.
You can buy several filters for less than the cost of a single carb rebuild kit.
My father always told me, it only takes 10% more intelligence than what you are working on. If you are capable of breathing, you *should* meet the minimum requirement.
If your car has spent a couple years sitting, this becomes even more important.
You can buy several filters for less than the cost of a single carb rebuild kit.
My father always told me, it only takes 10% more intelligence than what you are working on. If you are capable of breathing, you *should* meet the minimum requirement.
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Oh I forgot a good one.
To do asmall clean on a carb so you dont have to rebuild right tehn. GEt the car running, bring the revs up to about 5k and slam your hand onto the top of the carb, should clean out anything loose in it so you can either make it home or postpone until you can rebuild it.
To do asmall clean on a carb so you dont have to rebuild right tehn. GEt the car running, bring the revs up to about 5k and slam your hand onto the top of the carb, should clean out anything loose in it so you can either make it home or postpone until you can rebuild it.
When diagnosing a problem, "Never assume anything." Meaning just because you just replaced a part don't rule out that the part is not defective. Especially in rebuilt parts.
Based on my 30+ years of working on cars.
After getting done with any repair if A new symptom crops up. Recheck and recheck your work. 98% of the time it is related to what you just did.
Based on my 30+ years of working on cars.
After getting done with any repair if A new symptom crops up. Recheck and recheck your work. 98% of the time it is related to what you just did.
ever seen how people put washers under the rear hinges to raise the rear of the hood to allow hot air to escape? since our hood opens the other way the modification is a little bit different..
remove the hood latch and drill a hole inbetween the 2 existing holes, then bolt it to the top holes with your new holes and remove the piece of weatherstripping.
blamo, 10 degrees colder underhood temps.
remove the hood latch and drill a hole inbetween the 2 existing holes, then bolt it to the top holes with your new holes and remove the piece of weatherstripping.
blamo, 10 degrees colder underhood temps.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 11,359
Likes: 14
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Oh yeah, tried this four times now with great results (I'm convinced anyway).
Seafoam works better than oil or ATF for deflooding an engine. A couple caps full down the carb and crank her over. Usually starts immediately, and won't foul your plugs like the other methods.
Seafoam works better than oil or ATF for deflooding an engine. A couple caps full down the carb and crank her over. Usually starts immediately, and won't foul your plugs like the other methods.
Axle/bearing Grease uses:
-Replacing water pump and /or pump main body? Thin film (w finger tip) of grease on BOTH sides of gaskets means NEXT time the pump comes off, you won't be scraping bits of f@&%ing gasket. Good on thermostat hsg too. Also helps make a more secure seal.
-water hoses: film around the rim of the fittings (not hoses) means easy on-off later; secures seal
-taillight gaskets: thin film on both sides of gasket - better seal, no tearing on removal
-relube your now ridiculously expen$ive headlight arm's pivot points!
-likewise the pivots on your wiper transmission arms!
Anti-Seize:
-a dab on any bolt you ever remove from your car, so it will come off easier the NEXT time
Get a Parts Book/CD/Microfiche/PDF of your RX7
-so at least YOU will know the part description, name and part number even if the Parts guy doesn't
-so you can see how stuff disassembles
-so you can see what parts interchange between model years
Rust:
-pull your battery tray NOW. wire-wheel off the bad stuff. Trust me, its there.
-pull your tailights and stick a flashlight into the rear lower quater panels, if you dare
-clean your hatch drain tubes every month of use! You'll need a fine wire or something to run right down it. Lift the lower part of the hatch seal and check for rust.
-POR15 (por-15.com) is your friend
Change your coolant every 2 years.
Flush your brakes every 2 years.
Pull the center shift panel off your tranny inside. See the rubber boot over the hole? Well, there are THREE boots. One or all will be torn. Replace 'em.
SA Owners: ever replaced your _heater_ (as in: heater hoses-to-the-firewall) hoses? The one going from the firewall to the underside of the oil cooler WILL FAIL (oil from filter change eats it away) - and your 12a will go with it! Buy 2 because its a hose unique to SAs and will likely be out of production by the time you replace it again
There are at LEAST 3 different types of engine coolant out now - two are INCOMPATIBLE (the green and the orange I "think") - look very closely at lables for mixture warnings! Ask me how I know
Always mix coolant with DISTILLED water.
Ever change your rad cap? they go bad. Poor pressure = poor cooling performance.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
-Replacing water pump and /or pump main body? Thin film (w finger tip) of grease on BOTH sides of gaskets means NEXT time the pump comes off, you won't be scraping bits of f@&%ing gasket. Good on thermostat hsg too. Also helps make a more secure seal.
-water hoses: film around the rim of the fittings (not hoses) means easy on-off later; secures seal
-taillight gaskets: thin film on both sides of gasket - better seal, no tearing on removal
-relube your now ridiculously expen$ive headlight arm's pivot points!
-likewise the pivots on your wiper transmission arms!
Anti-Seize:
-a dab on any bolt you ever remove from your car, so it will come off easier the NEXT time
Get a Parts Book/CD/Microfiche/PDF of your RX7
-so at least YOU will know the part description, name and part number even if the Parts guy doesn't
-so you can see how stuff disassembles
-so you can see what parts interchange between model years
Rust:
-pull your battery tray NOW. wire-wheel off the bad stuff. Trust me, its there.
-pull your tailights and stick a flashlight into the rear lower quater panels, if you dare
-clean your hatch drain tubes every month of use! You'll need a fine wire or something to run right down it. Lift the lower part of the hatch seal and check for rust.
-POR15 (por-15.com) is your friend
Change your coolant every 2 years.
Flush your brakes every 2 years.
Pull the center shift panel off your tranny inside. See the rubber boot over the hole? Well, there are THREE boots. One or all will be torn. Replace 'em.
SA Owners: ever replaced your _heater_ (as in: heater hoses-to-the-firewall) hoses? The one going from the firewall to the underside of the oil cooler WILL FAIL (oil from filter change eats it away) - and your 12a will go with it! Buy 2 because its a hose unique to SAs and will likely be out of production by the time you replace it again
There are at LEAST 3 different types of engine coolant out now - two are INCOMPATIBLE (the green and the orange I "think") - look very closely at lables for mixture warnings! Ask me how I know
Always mix coolant with DISTILLED water.
Ever change your rad cap? they go bad. Poor pressure = poor cooling performance.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Constant Tension Band Clamps (CTBCs) -- these are the style used on the brake vacuum lines on FBs, and for most connections on newer cars. They have the ears that you use pliers to pinch together so you can install them. It seems these clamps actually seal better over wide temperature ranges than a regular worm style. You can get them in silver or black at Fastenal -- it just takes a little prodding.
Soft & Wooly
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood, CO (formerly Seattle)
Never pound on the threaded end of ANYTHING.
Have two sets of tools, one for the garage, one for the car.
Don't use a bottle jack to lift an RX-7, especially by the frame rails.
Don't upgrade your car when there's still stuff on it that needs to be fixed.
Keep your spare tire inflated.
Don't rush to judgement, especially if it means spending a lot of money, or doing something you can't easily undo.
Have two sets of tools, one for the garage, one for the car.
Don't use a bottle jack to lift an RX-7, especially by the frame rails.
Don't upgrade your car when there's still stuff on it that needs to be fixed.
Keep your spare tire inflated.
Don't rush to judgement, especially if it means spending a lot of money, or doing something you can't easily undo.